|
Post by biggles1 on Jul 22, 2014 16:22:53 GMT
I used CJ7 ones on mine. I think they were quite expensive though.
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jul 16, 2014 8:19:50 GMT
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jul 10, 2014 19:41:19 GMT
I did see that one Scooby and if it doesn't sell, I'll be asking him about the windscreen frame for sure. I guess it depends on if he'll send it or not. It's too far away for me to collect.
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jul 10, 2014 7:17:44 GMT
Great news that it's back on the road. What is it described as on the V5c? I can't remember. I only used it for about a month after I bought it and then cleared off to the USA for 11 weeks. When I came home, the tax had expired and I never used it again. I remember the guy who bought it came along with his mate called Nick who had a RV with a Rover V8 in it. I think he lived in the Cromer area somewhere. Wonder if he's still got it?
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jul 10, 2014 7:08:06 GMT
I reckon it's been registered at sometime in it's life. Why would anyone put a tax disc holder on the windscreen if there has never been a disc to put in it???
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jul 8, 2014 15:47:50 GMT
This could be a tricky one Dean. You are on a "Q" plate so the donor registration wasn't used. I can't remember how the vehicle was described on the V5c. I think you will have to wait for the V5c to come back and see what's on it.
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jul 8, 2014 15:41:57 GMT
Our Eagle went in for it's MOT on Friday (although we did a few little jobs and bought some new tyres before hand) and although it failed, it only failed on poor brakes; which considering it has been stored for 8 years, I didn't think that was too bad. It's currently at the garage as my wife is far too impatient for me to sort it so hopefully by the weekend it should be in use just in time for the heatwave!!! ;-) That's good news. Don't forget to post up some pictures when it's on the road. John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 30, 2014 9:33:51 GMT
It's running, drives and has brakes. I'm hoping to take a better look over it today. That's great Dean! The guy who owned it previous to me, was a marine electrician (hence the interesting fuse board, junction box under the dash). He kept a record of how he re-wired it. It was all documented and I passed that to the buyer when I sold it to him. I hope that you got it too. John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 29, 2014 8:16:42 GMT
I know that we should be 'playing this cool' but we're getting the 'beast' dropped off later and we're all a little excited!!! Yep. . . . I'm sure once you get it, you'll soon come back down to earth ! John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 27, 2014 15:08:05 GMT
Where are you based Dean?
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 27, 2014 14:33:43 GMT
Ah! Glad you found us Dean. Please keep us all posted on any developments. I was using something like the Di engine from the old "Smiley" Transit, or maybe the Banana engine but would need to be measured to make sure it goes in.
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 26, 2014 18:30:43 GMT
The Mustang wheels were 108 pcd? Wow. Spacers used? They're nice - and nicely different. The "Fox" Mustangs (1979 to 1993) all had 4 x 108 pcd wheels except the 1993 Cobra "R" and the SVO turbo models which had 5 stud wheels. They fit without spacers but are a little close on the inside edge on the fronts so I'm going to fit some very thin, hubcentric spacers. The centre bore on the mustang wheels is fraction tight to fit on the Cortina front hubs (the rears are perfect), but with the hubcentric spacers they fit ok on the front. I'm currently running 1987 wheels on my 1993 Mustang too. Simply because the 15" tyres are so much cheaper than the 16" ones that my 93 had as standard. My biggest problem at the moment with the RV, is the condition of the windscreen frame. It's been butchered and bodged and I could really do with a replacement. John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 26, 2014 7:36:02 GMT
. . .Anyways, who modified your rear arches? Is that the same as the expensive 4x4 Eagle version on the Landrover website? The arches are TJ wrangler ones. I have a set of 4. The rears are simple to fit but the fronts are a little more of a challenge. I've always disliked the big, round, "Typical Kit Car" look of the RV arches. The wheels are 1987 Ford Mustang (15" x 7") John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 25, 2014 7:19:58 GMT
Mine doesn't sit particularly high either - the front tyres are 28" overall diameter, and that's just a 2" gap betwixt the top of the tyre and the outer edge of the wing. How much gap do you have there, Biggles? I'm running 225 / 75 x 15 tyres and I have a 31/2 inch gap from the top of the tyre to the bottom edge of the lip of the front wing. I know, I know. . . . the colour is bloody ghastly, but it will be changed before it goes back on the road. John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 23, 2014 6:34:31 GMT
(you don't have the engine out in that photo, do you...?!) The engine is a 2.0 pinto and it's all fitted, complete and running. The ride height doesn't look high to me. It stands very slightly nose down and looks about the same as my other RV's I've owned. One thing to note though, look at the space between the coils on my springs compared to yours. John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 22, 2014 10:33:00 GMT
Looking at the track rod arms in the pic I suspect that bump steer with be a feature of your ride. This is obviously a Cortina set up....check everything is mounted correctly and if so you can source a boss that will fit between the track rod end and the stub axle to help reduce the angle of the track rod. . . . It does look a bit steep doesn't it. I know a bit about bump steer from setting up suspension on my lowered Ford Mustangs. It's quite an easy fix on those as lots of tuning companies supply "Bump Steer Kits" which, as you mention, provide a tapered, adjustable spacer to fit in place of the track rod end. However, if you look at my photo, that would make matters worse. What I need is to actually remove the track rod end and reposition it above the stub axle instead of it going up through the bottom where it is now. I assume that the stub axle and track rod spindle are tapered to fit from underneath, so that's a bit of a non starter without some sort of engineering work. John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 18, 2014 7:42:26 GMT
One of my old RV's has popped up on eBay. I sold it in 2006 and it looks like it's not been on the road since. It's a bit of a weird one as the engine is a 2.2 litre diesel from an Austin Gipsy (very similar to an old London taxi). This is ok in theory but in reality it's very, very noisy, pretty slow and very smokey when cold. Apart from the engine, the rest of the vehicle was very tidy. The shell was all good, the roof and doors were good and it all locked up ok. The guy that bought it from me drove it home (around 45 miles) and it looks like it's not been anywhere in the 8 years since. If I had a little spare cash, I'd have it back and swap out the engine and box for Transit ones. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131218461930?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 10, 2014 8:45:40 GMT
The angle of the steering arms on my RV have often got me thinking. I've not driven it with the 15" wheels and big tyres on yet, so I'm not sure how it's going to behave on the road. They do seem to be at quite a steep angle (usually a cause of bump steer). I also have a fair amount on negative camber. John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jun 3, 2014 7:40:59 GMT
Excellent! Don't forget to keep us updated with photo's.
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on May 31, 2014 12:01:35 GMT
That's looking great Peter. I can't seem to get going on the RV. Every time I plan making a start, something else crops up. Looks like the transfer case is getting noisy on the wife's daily driver, so I reckon I'll be underneath that soon. John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on May 23, 2014 19:15:32 GMT
A kit car is completely different from a production car. Any faults are usually down to the way it was put together. A chassis can be treated 100 different ways by 100 different people. The only "common faults" will be with regards to the doner car. Eg. The ford pinto engines were known to wear out camshafts (but most have been fixed by now). Cortina suspension bushes can be a problem but upgraded bushes are easily available.
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on May 16, 2014 7:28:28 GMT
Sounds like you're getting it sorted. The RV windscreen is always a bit of a concern for me. When you say, "It came out real easy", that's my worry. Not sure if you're aware, but a former member on here had a windscreen blow in on him while driving. It was very nasty. To me, it always looks like there's not enough meat in the rubber seal and surround to hold it in under pressure. I think with mine, I'm going to incorporate a removable vertical support brace in the centre of the screen. Still trying to decide if I want to make my frame hinged (like a CJ7), or just angle it back a bit and fix it.
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on May 11, 2014 10:04:30 GMT
Well, I know this photo is pretty poor but it shows the angle iron support in my windscreen frame. If only the builder had fitted it properly (threaded rod to the bulkhead). As you can see, it's been glass matted to the side of the body tub (the shiny yellowish stuff), so it looks like I've got a lot of scraping and chipping to do. The frame itself is in pretty poor condition. I'd like to find a good second hand one but I guess they are pretty rare. John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on May 8, 2014 6:34:02 GMT
I currently have the windscreen glass removed from my RV My frame looks to be reasonably straight (but certainly not perfectly straight). It also seems to have lengths of angle iron bonded into the end uprights of the frame which are fitted through the main tub and bonded in with fibreglass matting. This is going to make it quite difficult to remove. I need to angle it a little in order to get the hardtop to fit at the front. Anyway, here's a couple of pictures. John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on May 3, 2014 9:58:23 GMT
Pete's solution is probably the best but, depending on the equipment and materials available, it might be tricky to make a neat job. I would probably leave the front untouched (curved) and cut the rear to length to match the profile of the rear arch.
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on May 2, 2014 8:31:47 GMT
. . .And that soft top is hideous! :-)
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Apr 25, 2014 7:27:57 GMT
Ah!! The photo of the black RV (Q978 JKO), was taken at Newark. Possibly 2004? I know because it was mine. I recognise the seat covers and kiddies seat in the back, so the picture was definitely taken during my ownership. I wish I still had it. The one I have now is going to take a lot of work to make it as good as that one. It was a daily driver for 2 years and was 100% reliabe. It's been on the DVLA data base as "Unlicensed" for the last 6 or 7 years, so I guess it no longer exists. What a waste!
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Apr 6, 2014 8:05:41 GMT
Welcome nz. Post up some pictures when you can.
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Mar 16, 2014 19:40:07 GMT
Well, the sun was out today so I put a set of jump leads on the RV and, after around 30 seconds cranking up the fuel, it fired up in a cloud of blue smoke (valve stem seals) and settled into a nice idle. I've not touched it for months but the next job is to attack the rusted up bolts that hold the windscreen frame on. I need to re-position the screen to get the old hardtop on. Grinding the bolts off looks to be simple enough but it appears that there are two hefty lengths of angle iron, bonded into the sides of the screen frame and down into the body tub. I'll probably just try and slice through them with the mini grinder. I'm considering hinging the screen frame like a CJ7. I'll probably need to strengthen the frame but it will be secured at the top to an extension to the roll bar. The extension will unbolt from the roll bar for when the screen is folded down. Hopefully, CJ7 or Wrangler top door / screen hinges will do the job.
John
|
|
|
Post by biggles1 on Jan 8, 2014 7:08:00 GMT
Rocar contacted C.K.C. on this and the return was not sure exactly what's happening but will ask questions There mag lists it as date TBC. So unless they are planning another venue and date it looks like it is a NO SHOW which is a great shame as I too always liked Newark.. . . I think the problem comes from the people who give it the "WITHOUT US THEY WOULDN'T HAVE A SHOW" Just my opinion but there you are. It's the only kit car event I can attend. All the others clash with show dates for the Mustang Owners Club GB. I think you are right regarding the moaners about paying an entrance fee. I organise the MOCGB event at Duxford IWM every year and drivers get a massive discount on normal admission fees, but there are still those who think they should get in for free. In fact, I even heard of one guy who thought that the organisers should actually pay him for bringing his car! John
|
|