|
Post by scooby on Jun 4, 2014 18:24:17 GMT
That's all very good in theory.
Ok, prob in practice too.
Makes ma heed hurt...
|
|
|
Post by scooby on Jun 4, 2014 18:22:13 GMT
Ah! Thanks Dazg and Gary.
Impressive beast all right. The rear arches look like exact copies of the fronts, so really a simple cloning job. It would be interesting to hear the tale of the builder right enough.
It's mighty impressive, but £8k? Phew...
|
|
|
Post by scooby on Jun 3, 2014 19:44:32 GMT
Nope.
But I have some hen's teeth you can have.
|
|
|
Post by scooby on Jun 3, 2014 19:40:55 GMT
Any chance of a link to this amazing Jeep?!
I suspect that the main body tub wasn't redesigned, so unlikely for there to be a modified Jeep mould out there. But I could be wrong, of course.
I suspect the builder either designed the rear arches from scratch and stuck them on, glassing them in, or else took moulds from an existing vehicle, cast the arches and then stuck 'em on. It doesn't make sense to produce a complete bodyshell mould with different arches.
If you really, really wanted to make rear arches like these (not that I've seem them yet), it shouldn't be too much of a problem, I wouldn't have thought.
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 30, 2014 9:35:53 GMT
" ...but it's a fairly easy job to get in there." Maaan, you know how to make us mortals feel small, dontcha... This is going to be soooo gooood .
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 30, 2014 9:22:47 GMT
Ah, the 'mangled rear end'... Been there . The wiring harness on my RV came through from the rear passenger area above, before descending into an unbelievable morass of tape, splices, clips, extensions and bare hanging wires. What I did to sort it was to buy a small IP-rated junction box (a bit like this, but a cheapo with a snap-on lid: www.screwfix.com/p/ip65-adaptable-box-80-x-80-x-52mm/14556 )and a 20A terminal strip. I attached the box to the chassis member just below where the cable came through, and - after leaving enough 'slack' - cut through the whole darned wiring harness and just junked all the mess beyond that. I wrapped additional tape around the harness as it came through from above to make sure it wouldn't undo, and passed it through one of the flexible grommets on the JB before baring each wire, 'tinning' each end and tightening it down into the terminal strip. After working out which wire did what (that took some figuring out, including a lot of help from here and BUYSELLCORTINAS - a very useful and helpful forum), I soldered the ends, inserted them into the terminal strip (2 separate lengths...) and then used 'trailer cable' to continue the wiring to the light clusters, number plate and rear trailer socket. 'Trailer cable' is ideal - cheap, weatherproof, flexible and has only 7 wires - a fine example of 'KISS'! Oh yes - rather than then rely on separate 'earths' (= future problems...), I took one hefty earth wire from a secure chassis screw and added this to the terminal strip. The trailer cable now carries its own earth to all the lights. Yes, I know this means that a single cable will be taking all the power for all the lights, but (a) it'll cope (brake & indicator lights are intermittent anyways...) and (b) I have already replaced the rear/brake & fog lamps with LEDs, and will be doin ditto with the indicators (actually I may already have done this -I need to check!) (Oh yes again, I also bought an electronic indicator relay on 'Bay for a few squid which ensures the flash rate remains steady regardless of the power being drawn, so you can swap to LED bulbs as you wish.) Once done, I gave the whole insides of the 'box and the 'strips a good spray of WD40, and snapped on the lid. Made life a lot easier...
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 29, 2014 21:58:40 GMT
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 29, 2014 21:49:51 GMT
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 25, 2014 10:25:01 GMT
What a blow losing that workshop, Trike. That is some seriously awesome fabrication, and this is building into a terrific thread. I hope you'll be able to get stuck in to your car again soon. What is it you do at work - I'm guessing something to do with engineering?! Did you have to move home to follow your work? It would be too much to hope that there's another kit-car aficionado (yes, I had to look up the spelling... ) living nearby and who happens to have a spacious workshop keen to share...? Good luck - really looking forward to seeing what you do with your SS. (Does the one in the field have a reg plate?)
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 24, 2014 16:45:12 GMT
As much as I love 'em, I can't see anything on this planet that makes any Eagle RV worth £8k...
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 21, 2014 13:06:18 GMT
Tee-hee - I didn't realise it was the same car
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 21, 2014 7:33:23 GMT
Why is that now a redundant Q, Peter?
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 17, 2014 22:36:33 GMT
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 17, 2014 22:35:06 GMT
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 17, 2014 22:34:04 GMT
What a good guy you are, John.
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 16, 2014 10:54:48 GMT
Blimey - I hadn't heard that story at all. A flying sheet of glass, inside the car I'm confident it'll be secure once redone - the aperture looks as tho' it was cut neatly (apart from the extra bit which served to push the bottom rail downwards), and so the hefty rubber moulding should grip the glass and the fibreglass with very little slackness. The rubber insert bead really stiffens the whole caboodle up - once that's removed, you can peel the rubber lip over the glass relatively easily, but with that bead in place it's very firm. Also, I had the whole frame removed from the car, so that allowed a lot of extra flexibility in the bottom rail which helped a lot. And I'd left it out in the sun so the rubber was more flexible! But I was still pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to remove - I'd been dreading it. I held the frame standing upright on its two angle-irons, and tried to edge the glass pane towards a bottom corner as much as possible (tho' that was only a mm or so). I then pressed the opposite top corner of the glass inwards (as if to the inside of the vehicle) and found the rubber to be moving quite freely. Gripping the frame there with my palms, with my finger-tips acting on the glass, I pressed more firmly until the glass moved right in away from the frame (at no stage was the glass in danger of breaking - I wasn't using 'brute force' by any means). I then pushed further along the top edge and slightly down that side, and the glass kept coming free. Once I reached the middle where the rubber seal has a break, I just pulled the rubber seal right off towards both tops corners and down both sides - grabbed the glass, and pulled/lifted it out of the bottom frame section. I will be sealing the glass when it's replaced; by using this StixAll, it'll effectively be 'bonded' in as well. Even without that, I am confident it would be secure - the rubber seal is a hefty section, and both the glass and the fibreglass frame lip go in pretty much the full depth. Once that centre bead is fitted, it is really firm and sturdy.
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 16, 2014 10:39:31 GMT
Tee-hee - I can see why you want to do this; they're all brilliant
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 15, 2014 23:22:49 GMT
Tackling saggy windscreen frame...
Been driving sans screen for the last few days - taking ma wee girl to skool. Thankfully the weather is wonderful, but it's still a real blast. And I don't mean that in a good way.
Exhilarating in it's own way, tho'. Above 20 mph all you hear is wind roar and - strangely - the induction hiss from the carbs. Very pleasant - you really lose yourself in being submerged in the environment. Sadly, there are other cars on the road, so maintaining 20mph just ain't an option. At 30mph it's just, well, windy. At 40mph+, you begin to gag, and your sunglasses are being pressed into your face.
And the spitting out of flies afterwards is a poor start to a school day, says ma girl. (Wide awake for the SATs, tho'...)
Saggy problem turned out to have two causes; one was the sagging scuttle - which is no real surprise at the whole of the original fibreglass dashboard panel had been completely removed, which must have contributed a great deal to the strength of the dash top. I fitted a wood panel across the transmission tunnel, and there are two temporary braces coming up for there to support the larger-profile box-steel section which is bolted to the underside of the scuttle. All nicely raised now, and will be replaced with permanent struts when the final scuttle height is arrived at.
However, the removed windscreen frame still had a very sizeable downwards bow in the bottom section, and no amount of clamping, pressing or persuading could tempt the windscreen rubber to fit further on to the 'lip' so's the bottom rail could be raised up to a level level. It just wouldn't go. So, annoyingly, the windscreen had to come out to see what the problem was (phew - it came out real easy). Jeepers, the reason was clear; the windscreen aperture had been cut real neat all the way around to leave an approximately 10mm fibreglass lip for the rubber to sit neatly on to - apart from along the bottom section, which for some bizarre reason was at least 8mm wider. What the...?
A trim with an angle grinder, and hopefully tomorrow will see the screen back in, the rubber sitting neatly all the way around, and a nice flat bottom to the frame...
I'm using a really nice, recently-discovered adhesive product for these jobs, and will also be using it to bed the frame down on the scuttle. It's called 'StixAll' by Everbuild and comes in typical 300ml (?) cartridges. Comes out like silicone, and is as easy to use. But - bluggerme - does it adhere well! And really tough too - cures like rubber.
Gonna use it to bed the frame down on the scuttle - I reckon that'll be the end of leaks and saggy bottoms.
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 15, 2014 10:59:07 GMT
It almost works, Ram, and it's certainly a cracking idea. (And it'll turn heads...!)
I'm not sure quite why - to my mind - it doesn't fully work, tho'; I think it's because it is simply a 'rear end', so looks almost like an accident! I suspect you need more of a 'trailer' input to it, so's it's clear what it's meant to be, but still has a large SS influence.
If you squint your eyes at the side-on picture, I think you can sense that if the top shape of the trailer followed the 'waist-height' body-line (that gentle flowing curve above the wheel arch that starts from the very rear tip) that it'll work better as a visual design. Can you do a 'photo-shop' of it?
Of course, that will mean even less room inside, but I also think the front needs modifying to get rid of that severe slope - but not sharp straight down either! That should give more room up front.
Basically, I don't think it's dead in the water by any means, and I think it could look pretty darned awesome.
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 14, 2014 9:40:50 GMT
Obviously confirm all is well before considering bidding. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eagle-Rv-Kit-Car-Spares-Or-Repair-Kit-Car-Unfinished-Project-Barn-Find-/221438675132?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item338ec608bcIt would obviously be a major build, but a lot less than a starting a kit from scratch would be. And the awkward-to-source front and rear axles are there (but confirm). Or, do you have an RV that needs an IVA...? It does come up good on the DVLA register: Date of Liability 01 10 2000 Date of First Registration 01 12 1989 Year of Manufacture 1989 Cylinder Capacity (cc) 1600cc CO₂ Emissions Not Available Fuel Type PETROL Export Marker N Vehicle Status Unlicensed Vehicle Colour BLACK Vehicle Type Approval Not Available Vehicle Excise Duty rate for vehicle 6 Months Rate 12 Months Rate £126.50 £230.00
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 14, 2014 9:33:39 GMT
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 13, 2014 9:47:00 GMT
Absolutely.
With there being no response from my post above, I have emailed the guy suggesting he also advertises the whole lot under 'kit cars', emphasising that it's correctly registered as an Eagle.
Surely to gawd someone can use it? A crime to have a good V5 scrapped. But that's what's going to happen...
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 12, 2014 8:38:35 GMT
Vehicle enquiry
The enquiry is complete.The vehicle details for Q878 RDS are:
Date of Liability 01 10 2000 Date of First Registration 01 12 1989 Year of Manufacture 1989 Cylinder Capacity (cc) 1600cc CO₂ Emissions Not Available Fuel Type PETROL Export Marker N Vehicle Status Unlicensed Vehicle Colour BLACK Vehicle Type Approval Not Available Vehicle Excise Duty rate for vehicle 6 Months Rate 12 Months Rate £126.50 £230.00
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 11, 2014 19:36:53 GMT
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 9, 2014 9:10:27 GMT
Thanks Terry. Just enjoyed a good read through your whole thread Makes my task look infinitesimally small in comparison! It shouldn't be too much of an issue for me to sort, tho' I've decided the screen and frame should come off first. Larger box-section going across, braced and supported by uprights going to the trannie tunnel - that should be enough. Just need to think about the shape of these bracings first as they'll also be the frame for the centre console. Cheers.
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 8, 2014 13:39:11 GMT
Thanks very much, Gary and Biggles. (Exploding turbo? ) These angle-irons, Biggles, are usually sitting free and project down into the cabin close to the sides of the body where they are held securely by threaded rods coming from the front bulkhead to their ends. This prevents back and forth movement of the screen, and holds it all steady. Adjusting the threaded rods then adjusts the windscreen angle - but it seems yours has been permanently fixed, glassed-in? Rats - it could have been so easy. I'm not too surprised that the middle area of my front scuttle is sagging - there is nothing holding it up. In fact the weight of the steering column is effectively helping to pull it down too since it's joined to the 1" box-section tube that runs along under the scuttle. I have a wider box section I'm planning to replace the 1" one with, and I'll run it a little wider too. If I pack the top of this section to match the desired curve of the scuttle, I should hopefully be able to jack it all into place and bolt it through, and then hold it all there by fitting struts betwixt the transmission tunnel and the box-section to keep it in place. I guess - as Peter suggests - a nice hot day would be best for this job! Thanks again.
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 6, 2014 20:59:01 GMT
Been experimenting today with a small trolley jack sitting on a small chipboard sheet on the transmission tunnel! Jeepers, that fibreglass scuttle is quite happy in its new shape... Creeeeeak.
Looks like I'll be able to get it up an adequate amount before bracing it permanently against the trannie tunnel with a construction that'll become part of the new dashboard central console.
But - blimey - it didn't want to shift.
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 6, 2014 20:43:05 GMT
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 5, 2014 12:22:53 GMT
Ok, he doesn't have the V5, but it was registered as Q878 RDS. He's not bothered about the body and chassis - likely that's available for a peppercorn sum.
Hmmmm, Q878 RDS... Surely that's of - cough - interest to someone? Like a potential purchaser of Cactus's yellow thingy...
Or something.
(Nice helpful guy - his number is 07740266061 Waaaay up in Fife, tho'...)
|
|
|
Post by scooby on May 5, 2014 9:08:40 GMT
Most of these studs are 'spline' as far as I know.
The spline refers to the way the studs are fixed in the hub plate. To remove the old ones, you screw on a wheel nut until it's almost flush at the front, and then use a rubber mallet (or hammer and a bock of wood) to tap the studs back in towards the middle of the car. You'll see what's meant by splines when you knock one out.
The longer studs then just feed in from behind the hub flange - there should be room to get the longer stud in there - and you pull it through as far as possible before adding a wheel nut (possibly with a couple of thick washers) and tightening it all down. As you tighten the nut, the stud will be pulled through until the splines have engaged with the hub and stick in place.
ONE POINT OF NOTE - before you tighten the nut to pull in the stud, twiddle the stud around to make sure you feel the splines engaging in their matching splines in the hub. You should be able to feel this.
I presume you are only going for 10mm-ish spacers? If you were going mega - say 32mm! - then there are extending studs that fit over the existing so you don't have to remove them.
Anyways, yes, MOT stations are different! My RV failed on around 6 points and had the same again number of 'advisories'. But ALL these issues existed the last time the car was MOT'd with its previous owner, along with a half-inch of steering play which I rectified with a new rack!
But in your case the wheels were rubbing on they were not. And I suspect they were - so the garage was right.
|
|