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Post by scooby on May 5, 2014 8:59:23 GMT
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Post by scooby on May 3, 2014 14:26:01 GMT
Thanks for the suggestions, gents - can't say I'm short of options (Nice Jeep, Ram - looks good in white.) 'Cut and shut' was my initial thoughts when I first bought them so as to keep the rounded ends, but I don't have the skills to make a join in the outer pipe neat to any passable degree, and I wanted to avoid any covering strip to hide any join too. I know what you mean by sharp edges, Peter; my thoughts if going for an angled cut matching the arches would be to finish off the sharp end by flattening it with the grinder, so's the very tips are 'straight' (at right angles to the body). Ram - I'm shallow; at least half the purpose of these steps will be decorative, hence me agonising over the 'cut'... Ach - decisions, decisions
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Post by scooby on May 3, 2014 14:18:08 GMT
Thanks.
As part of the dash build I'll be fitting vertical bracing betwixt the metal box-section that runs under the scuttle and the gearbox 'cover', so can use that to keep whatever shape I can get out of the scuttle.
What I can't figure out out is how that bit 'sank'. That raised lip is part of the main scuttle, so I'd have expected to see this main scuttle dipping down at that point too? But it looks reasonably ok; the centre is - just - the highest point of that scuttle. I can only visualise that to raise the back of the scuttle enough to make that back 'lip' horizontal would mean that the rest of the scuttle would have quite a pronounced rounded raised bit too - totally unlike the shape of the bonnet, for example?
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Post by scooby on May 3, 2014 7:19:47 GMT
Thanks Gary. So, when the moulding was made, it was meant to be level?! Jeepers! Going from my second photo, the only way to get the 'raised lip' part of the scuttle panel (ie: the vertical bit that the windscreen frame sits on) level is to raise the whole back of that scuttle panel so's it has a much greater upwards curve in its middle? That would in theory straighten and level the raised lip part? But, the front of that scuttle panel - where it joins the bonnet - would keep the same profile it currently has? Blimey. If it's not too much trouble, could you post a front-on photo like my second one, please, Gary - showing the end of the bonnet and that scuttle panel with the screen sitting on it. Thanks
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Post by scooby on May 2, 2014 21:47:17 GMT
From the front, the main scuttle seems to be 'ok' - slightly higher in the middle. It's the raised bit of this scuttle which appears to taper down in the middle. Is this normal?!! Attachments:
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Post by scooby on May 2, 2014 21:43:17 GMT
Can anyone offer their thoughts on why the bottom of my windscreen frame slopes downwards in t'middle, please? You can see it fall a good 20-odd mm or more in the middle, so that the windscreen rubber is barely getting a grip along the centre point. There is a kind of matching slope in the raised section of the scuttle under the screen frame, but this doesn't seem to be matched by a drop in the main scuttle panel itself - the body section in front of the screen that the bonnet meets seems to be reasonably ok. There is a steel box section running along underneath which is bolted up through this main scuttle panel with three bolts - you can see the nearest one in the foreground. I have slackened off the centre bolt and tried to 'jack up' the scuttle in the middle by bracing it up from the gearbox 'cover' - next to zero upwards movement happened in the scuttle, which I guess is no great surprise as the combined fibreglass will be pretty hard to persuade back into a straight line in one go! Any thoughts as to what's gone amiss here? Thanks. Attachments:
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Post by scooby on May 2, 2014 21:30:14 GMT
Feeling the urge to get some work done on old ULD. One of the tasks is to lose the side exhaust pipes and fit a more civilised 'box underneath - and exiting out the back where it won't coat the occupants with fumes Also to fit a pair of side-steps. I got these solid items of ebay some time ago - they were for a cheap 4x4 type - a Kia or Dacia or something, but they're pretty nifty having (I'm pretty sure) stainless steel tubes on the outside. Anyways, they need cutting to size to fit 'in between' the front and rear arches (even tho' they'll be at a lower level). The side steps are bigger than they appear in this photo as they're further away from the camera - they actually extend well into the wheel arches if offered up and make contact with both tyres, so the ends need chopping off. What would look best, do you reckon? Do I cut the step ends to follow the same angle as the sloping arches, or straight ended (ie: right angles to the car body), or even tapered the opposite way but at the same angle as the arch slopes? (see the three outlines!) Thanks for your input. Attachments:
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Post by scooby on May 1, 2014 13:37:24 GMT
ULD 291R won't be there this year, I'm afraid, despite being 'legal' and used every day. It currently looks worse than when I bought it, having ripped the old dash completely out. And these thrumming side exhausts would be the end of me on a long trip.
Oh, and no roof or doors...
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Post by scooby on May 1, 2014 13:33:56 GMT
Yes, I have no arguments with this garage at all.
And I chose them because they are of the 'old school' - proper mechanics. They have an assortment of weird and wonderful cars they push out of the garage first thing each morning to make room for their 'proper day jobs'! There's a Lotus Europa, a kit I recognise but forget the name of - but one primarily designed for racing, an old Ford Pop around the back getting some serious extra bracing added, and a number of other projects scattered about. On the walls are photos and posters of '7'-type cars they race - you get this idea.
I like.
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Post by scooby on Apr 29, 2014 18:32:41 GMT
MOT all good on the re-test. Phew...
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Post by scooby on Apr 27, 2014 21:40:55 GMT
Blimey - what would have caused that? Engine overheated and seized at some point?
Going back many years - gulp, around 30... - when I restored a Triumph GT6, I remember reading about 'Hepolite' (I think it was ) 'oil-control' piston rings in the Haynes manual I was using, and them being recommended if the actual cylinders didn't require a full re-bore.
Well, I got them, and fitted them and b*****-me the compression was awesome.
Are there such things available these days? And for the Pinto?
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Post by scooby on Apr 23, 2014 21:53:44 GMT
Tsk - 'work', 'home' or 'RV'.
Man, you gotta know your priorities...
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Post by scooby on Apr 22, 2014 18:03:21 GMT
And offski for an MOT.
And, having sorted out the rear brakes and also rebuilt the front callipers, and with a new steering rack and track-rod ends, I'm pleased to say none of these 'major' items failed.
The failure list was, nevertheless, pretty long... But all stuff I sort of knew was dodgy and was to be tackled as part of the refurb plan. Not surprisingly tho', the MOT cove - who did a thorough-but-fair job - isn't looking into the future like me, so insists them items are sorted now - ta very much.
Loose petrol filler neck... I know, I know.
Both headlamps delivering a serious squint, aiming as they are in an almost cross-eyed fashion.
Loose wiring harness under t'bonnet. Fairy nuff - I should have secured the loom after having tweaked/modified/traced/removed various weird cables.
Brake pipe needs further securing as it makes its way across the front sub-frame. Sheeesh - getting a bit pedantic, there. But I guess fair enough too.
And advisories: Handbrake outer cable touching against petrol tank. Fuel tank itself slightly loose. Wiring loom running up side of footwell close to throttle pedal and not properly secured.
No arguments there. All stuff that needs doing - and would have been in due course. But I appreciate the kick up t'rear to start work in earnest.
Lawd - I have such plans for the Jeep, and so many bits already bought for it - a new (quiet)exhaust, really nice side-steps, yummy 17" alloys and fat tyres to boot. Literally. And - always my ultimate fav part of a kit - a bespoke dashboard to design and make.
Must get going. Must. Must...
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Post by scooby on Apr 20, 2014 23:32:15 GMT
Ah, well, piece of peesh if you put it like that.
(walks away quickly, eyes fixed on floor...)
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Post by scooby on Apr 19, 2014 22:59:25 GMT
Eh? You just out one leccy dash and stick in another?! But...but...but...
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 23:05:35 GMT
Jobby done. And it was a breeze second time around. Refit the drum, check it isn't binding, refit wheel, and gently pump the foot brake. See that it works as it should be having someone turn the wheel whist you jab the pedal. Now try the handbrake - you really need both rear wheels off the ground simultaneously if you plan to adjust the cable. Enjoy
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:57:27 GMT
17) Finally, fit the securing springs... As before, you need to check how the spring's end loop departs the main spring coil: Engage your tool (ooh-er, missus)... If you look at this picture, the hook at the top of the spring needs to be pushed over to the the left before being pushed further forwards and and then allowed to pop back to the right to engage in the clip (Bear in mind this happens 'blind' - so visualise what's happening as you do it). So, in this case you'd insert your tool, lever the tool's handle over to the right, push it just a few mm forwards (needs a firm-but-not-excessive push), and then lever the handle back to the left. At the same time, ensure the clip is kept tightly flat against the backplate with your other hand, 'cos if the clip moves or falls out even a tiny amount, you ain't going to catch it with the spring. AGAIN, LOOK DOWN BETWEEN THE PISTON END AND THE SHOE END - THERE IS A GAP THERE WHERE YOU CAN LOOK DOWN TO SEE THE SPRING GOING ON TO THE CLIP. THAT MAKES IT EASY-PEASY! The weird thing is, this task caused me to nearly weep with frustration the first time I tried it - when I didn't actually know what the clip even looked like and couldn't figure out what was actually happening hidden behind the shoe. As soon as I'd seen one removed, refitting it now is a 3-second affair - it spookily engages first time pretty much every time.
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:47:29 GMT
16) The bottom spring is even easier - bring the two ends close, and pop on the spring loosely: And repeat your levering malarkey as before:
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:45:04 GMT
15) Following a reversal of the dismantling process, to refit the shoes into place you now CAREFULLY lever one end onto a cylinder piston. This is where you need to take great care to not allow the shoe end to bite into the dust cover, or even cause damage with the lever you are using for the task. It isn't hard to do, and the levering doesn't take much force. Once you get one end on, use your hand to keep it there and not let it slip off as you lever the other end... First one end, and then t'other...
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:40:35 GMT
14) More shoogling around to get the upper link assembly back in past the hub - as before, it will go! Wriggle...wriggle...wriggle...PLOP!
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:35:54 GMT
This is the whole assembly (minus bottom spring) ready for fitting: 13) Now offer it all up to the back plate, levering out the handbrake lever with a screwdriver to allow the cable to be fitted:
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:31:52 GMT
12) You now need to fit the TOP spring. NB This is the larger diameter - and 'softer' - spring!!!! This is actually not hard to do - my preferred method is to fit one end and then use a thin-bladed screwdriver over the other spring end to get it into place: See? Not hard :-)
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:28:42 GMT
...before pushing the adjuster lever back into place, pulling the link with it: (You need to pull out the other serrated adjuster thingy first, to allow this larger one to be pushed back fully against the back of the shoe.)
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:26:57 GMT
11) To locate the other end, first pull out the serrated brake adjuster lever as shown: ...and slip the lever's end into the exposed slot:
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:24:16 GMT
10) To fit the link bar, first catch the end over that return spring: And then lower the link down to sit correctly on the shoe:
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:14:33 GMT
8) Here's all the new bits. The Haynes manual covers swapping all these bits around, but please ask if you have any questions: 9) Here's the new handbrake return spring sitting in place:
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:10:40 GMT
And here's the whole assembly: 7) To remove the top spring, you can use a wire loop to slip over the end and pull, or else just use a thin-bladed screwdriver to lever the end off:
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:08:13 GMT
6) Good news - there should be just enough room betwixt cylinder and hub to wriggle out the complete shoe assembly - just get that adjuster link past with a bit of shuffling around... Pull it all back to expose the handbrake cable attachment, use a screwdriver to prise out the handbrake lever to allow you to detach the cable end:
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:04:38 GMT
5) You repeat this process for the top spring. Just take GREAT care not to damage the rubber dust covers... First one shoe and then t'other:
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Post by scooby on Apr 13, 2014 22:01:56 GMT
4) Once both clips are removed, you then lever off the bottom shoe ends: With both ends disengaged, the spring just lifts off...
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