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Post by Peter on Feb 19, 2017 15:04:01 GMT
Comon' guys, some projects haven't posted in months so what's the problem?
I can understand holiday season, really bad weather and family stuff get in the way but surly someone has done something?
There have been quite a few 'ambitious' projects in the past that seem to have disappeared completely.
The 'Lotus SS', the 'MG TF SS', the couple of garden finds, including the one dug out from by a wall, last heard of the rear end was removed for ease of engine removal. The V8 RV, the Diahatsu RV. The Freelander RV.
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Post by Peter on Feb 19, 2017 14:42:06 GMT
Only had a hour in the shed after visiting hospital for a preoperative check and made templates for the sill plates and dash side brackets to be cut out of 2mm stainless. Also a useful little tip: How many time has one blown the track on a circuit board (PCB) leaving one with the choice of either scrapping the whole unit or bridging with wire soldered on between component pins? I found this self adhesive copper tape on Ebay that gardeners use to stop slug and snail ingress to plant pots. I can cut an exact copy of the burnt out track and stick it onto the PCB and solder to the pins. Attachment Deleted
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Post by Peter on Feb 19, 2017 13:30:51 GMT
The numbers for SS are for the 6 models of SS only. The 2+2 was considered a separate model from the SS,it also used a different donor, the Ford Escort..
About 345 VW SSs and the same for Ford/Cortina SSs, in MI,II & III versions. According to Reg Budd himself when he delivered my MkIII VW SS in 1995, less than three years before the last Eagle was made.
The Ford Escort based 2+2 didn't sell that well and although I have tried to get some numbers from Messrs Dutton, Breeze and Budd and others who worked for Eagle cars we can only guess that it is about a dozen and as far as I know only a 2+2 version was made but as it used panels from the SS there are a few variations such as bonnet and boot lids.
As far as RVs go it is a more difficult question as there were other companies who made RVs both during and after eagle cars time. There are 87 on the register including 4x4, Diahatsu Ford Cortina and VW based. A rough guess would be a couple of hundred as they didn't start production until later after Tim Dutton's time with a few VW based before going totally Ford Cortina donor and finally a few 4x4. Diahatsu, etc conversions. also there are a few made after Eagle Cars demise in 1998 and of course the 'Pilgrim' version.
Unfortunately as the only people who really know are retired (to France) or dead it is hard to get a definitive answer, not that I haven't tried over the years.
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Post by Peter on Feb 16, 2017 18:03:07 GMT
What ever happened to JonL and his SS.?
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Post by Peter on Feb 16, 2017 17:59:48 GMT
How is it going?
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Post by Peter on Feb 12, 2017 15:39:13 GMT
Haven't tried mine on the road yet but twin Land Rover masters with bias bar into 4 pot Wilwoods on vented discs front and Bugpack disc at rear.
First time a jammed the pedal down the bloody thing jammed in the cylinder so I have to take the assembly off to free it. Whilst that is off I will 'reform' the padals to be wider and better suited to my size 10 boots. I will also make a new ¿ shape throttle pedal so I can fit a bias adjusting cable.
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Post by Peter on Feb 12, 2017 14:18:21 GMT
Eagle SS progress has been a bit slow with a little work getting in the way and weather being crap, even here.
I have removed the alternator stand and inlet manifolds so I can remove both cylinder/head covers and clean them up and check the manifold to head seal as I was getting spitting on #1 and I thought it might be an air leak there, cleaned plugs etc, had to bodge one of the r/h inlet manifold allen bolts as the internal hex had worn and fit a new one.
Fitted the last two alloy internal deflectors to the 'A' shroud to improve air flow and bashed reformed the shroud into a better fit and refitted the alternator/fan and got a good fit there too so now I have the engine covers, manifolds and carburettors back on and ready to run, again.
Headlight relays and micro switches have been 'tuned' so the headlights are in their correct position.
Bluetooth relay switch has arrived so I am playing with that, I may just have it as an immobiliser rather than the complex Cobra CAT1 alarm, so as long as I am near with my phone and the correct PIN the car will start, I will still have the single button ignition/start function. I have tested the auto start relay function when the engine was running (badly) and as soon as it fires up the starter relay cuts out, so that is fine.
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brakes
Feb 7, 2017 11:25:20 GMT
Post by Peter on Feb 7, 2017 11:25:20 GMT
As has been mentioned, don't go too big on the servo, IF you fit one. 11" is way too big, a 6" or 7" will be more than enough or you will lock all the brakes.
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Post by Peter on Feb 7, 2017 0:42:19 GMT
Yep, deflect plates fitted. Covers are long sided rather than for horizontal tins. Also looking at flexible ring between shroud and fan. Did toy with the idea of electric fan but a 6" would be too small and an 8" would be too large size wise but would give the volume needed but some have said it wouldn't have the required pressure. I have stayed with the later fan with a few modifications and I'll see how it goes, just hope I don't end up with my heads covered in bits of fan blade.
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Post by Peter on Feb 5, 2017 13:10:06 GMT
Still plodding on. the new heavy duty micro switches fitted. Of course the bracket I so lovingly bashed out in two minuets no longer fitted so I had to make a new one, a chunk of 25.
mm square tube served as a spacer with a couple of 'Riv-nuts' to hold the switches on, (photo to follow). All I nee to do now is set up the stops to get the light positions right.
Dash side pods are not working out too well and I am on the point of making new ones, easy to do as they are made from 3mm ply skin on 10mm ply ribs, like a model aircraft wing.
Trying to find out the correct number of pulses per mile needed for the Astra GTe digi-dash, lots of posts on various forums but none have come out with, "The Astra digi-dash requires xxxxx pulses per mile", I can then calculate that with my 740 revs per mile front wheel just how many 'teeth' I need on the sender for the three wire transponder to give the correct reading, e.g. 15,000 pulses needed / 740 = 20 pulses (teeth) per revolution of the front wheel.
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Post by Peter on Feb 5, 2017 12:54:30 GMT
Beats the hell out of 'no brakes' . a smaller servo should do the job, 11" was way too big considering the weight of the car.
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Post by Peter on Jan 28, 2017 14:45:49 GMT
Like this one?
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Post by Peter on Jan 26, 2017 21:13:04 GMT
Today's I rebuilt the DellOrto DRLA 40s all bar the cap screws as I bought the wrong O rings yesterday. Made and fitted the first two of five inserts to improve cooling. Rather than weld, and ruin the shroud, I am pop riveting them in from the rear.
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Post by Peter on Jan 26, 2017 19:41:14 GMT
First thing is a "report" , (160€) this means an inspection by an 'engineer' to establish the basic specification, sizes of tyres, dimensions, etc with 4 photos for the "Fisher Technica" or registration doc', then an ITV. (MoT) (150€) with checks to see if it complies to regs and if the car is homogalated, which it isn't and of course as it is a 1966 VW there isn't a standard VIN number or homogolation code. For example, I already know the LED DRL lights in the nose will be an issue despite being compulsory on cars from 2013, and not having been fitted by a recognized garage and the combo side/indicator/fog lights do not have an E mark, the screen doesn't have any markings at all.
Once that lot passes I have to pay an 10% import tax based on their value of the car relative to it's age, that is going to be interesting, is it a 1995 Eagle or a 1966 VW? and vat at 21% on the lot.
Then I have you have to find someone to insure it, Spain doesn't do kit or special cars very much so no Adrian Fluxes. I have already inquired to most companies with description and photos and no one will insure it, so far but I know there is someone because Javier in Oviedo, in Northern Spain had the Red one with the F40 style wing, just finding that company and hoping the already expensive Spanish insurance, my A class 170CDi is 225€ TPFT, (they are terrible drivers), isn't astronomical.
Then I can pay the local IBI, (annual road tax) to the town hall in Estepona, buy new number plates and drive off. Easy. No?
SHOULD COST NO MORE THAN 600€ if I do it myself, if I get someone to do it all for me at least 2,000€.
That's a lot for a pensioner.
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Post by Peter on Jan 23, 2017 14:02:24 GMT
Still there, just been on and removed a lot of none Eagle stuff.
Link at the top of the forum.
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Post by Peter on Jan 23, 2017 13:29:10 GMT
Hi Nick.I am on Facebook as is the Eagle Owners Club which is open to all forum members. I also have my own Facebook page but for F & F only. I only pop onto the E.O.C. facebook page from time to time so I am well behind in that, I will check it out today. As far as the 'Eagle Owners Club' goes it is still very much alive and Helen is the membership Secretary. membership of the 'club' and the 'forum' are two different things, forum membership is open to all and only subject to members being removed if they don't post after a year. We try and meet every year at the Stoneliegh show on May bank weekend, unfortunetly there are fewer shows each year so we try to make the best of what is left. Keep posting and we look forward to seeing new posts in your own 'build diary' . Remember we all started somewhere so there are NO stupid questions and no one knows it all, so ask away. Peter ukhozi.page.tlIt is a bit out of date by a few months but I'm working on it.
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Post by Peter on Jan 21, 2017 17:45:51 GMT
Couple of days in the 'shed' but again some work got in the way in the shape of my old bosses scooter with a blown starter fan and kick gear. €€€€ However, with that out of the way I removed and stripped the duel DellOrto DRLA 40s and what a gungy mess with stinky old petrol . so a DEEP clean on the way. I also removed the shroud and alternator as I wasn't happy with the way the fan sits, too close at the bottom of the intake, so that is out and I am looking at getting the fan TIG welded and balanced. There is one on Ebay USA all done for $50 but shipping at $90 is a killer. Also taking advise on-line, fitting some vanes inside to improve cooling to #3 & 4 cylinders. I was looking at an insert for the A shrouds with all the air flow sorted but although the insert is a reasonable $150, the shipping, even via my Bro' in Alabama, is too much. Attachment DeletedI did run the engine up but with all that stale crap in the carbs it was not having any of it and spitting back on #1 too. At first I could get a spark, then a bolt of lighting from the Petronix coil and then dead again so I checked the ignitor that replaces the points and condenser and it was duff! So I then spent an hour hunting down the points and condenser I had placed somewhere safe and after I found them I saw the insulating block was missing and the wire from condenser to coil was cut off so I had to make an insulator and solder a new wire on, all good and it fired up, the auto-self start worked too with the starter cutting out when the engine ran so all good there. Next time, armed with a can of carb' cleaner, It's clean and rebuild time for the dells and sit the alternator in the shroud better. BUT IT RUNS! Kinda.
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Post by Peter on Jan 21, 2017 17:24:17 GMT
Hi Nick,
The interior trim on the Eagles are very much down to the owner.
As we use the original chassis on the VW version one can use a standard beetle carpet set for the floors and tunnel but that still leaves bulk heads, sills and rear window so it is best to make from scratch or get a car trimmer to do it. I had a Baja bug done for £50 all in, edged an' all.
The sections usually are; tunnel, left and right floors (inc drops if done), left and right front quarters, front bulkhead, rear left and right quarters up to roof, rear bulkhead up to window, rear window tunnel from roof, down and across and back up to roof and finally door sills, (edged).
Headlining is up to you but on the SS it really needs one. I use 3mm foam all over to smooth out the ridges and then a perforated head lining or cloth over that, you will need a front across top of the screen as there isn't a rubber like a car. 3mm ply is good and the rear tucks into the top of the window rubber, so to do a 'proper job' you need to pop out the rear window, the door seal rubbers hold the door area in place.
RV are a LOT easier with just the floors and usually weatherproof.
I used a cheap carpet with a latex backing from my local DIY store at about £5 a linear meter, (x 2m wide). contact adhesive or spray glue to fix, best to use a sound deadening layer on the floors though. And of course, as all Eagles, in fact all kit cars, are individual, you can what you like.
Hope that helps, Peter
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Post by Peter on Jan 19, 2017 12:19:51 GMT
Oh dear, What has happened? I tried starting up the car yesterday after four years standing and it had no spark. I tracked that down to the Pertronix ignitor and decided that was $80 too much at the moment so reverted to contacts. After an hour tracking down the parts I had carefully put aside just in case I found the insulator between the spring/contact on the points and the bracket was missing and the wire to the condenser was also cut off. So I made a new insulator from scrap plastic and soldered a new wire onto the condenser and refitted it all, SPARK! yeah.
Fresh petrol in the tank, pump primed the carbs OK but when I checked the accelerator pump, no squirt of fuel, tried to start the engine but even with the choke levers on it only ran for a few seconds at a time so I need to strip and clean the carbs. Also the fan rubs on the housing so I need to remove the shroud and alternator assembly and sort that out, if the fan is bent in any way I can get a standard new one on the 'bay for 50 inc or welded and balanced for 90 quid.
The electrics, although still simple, are fighting back and the latching relay that acts as an ignition switch has packed up so I have ordered a new relay to fix that, in the meantime I use a normal on/off toggle switch.
I was worried I had blown the spare speedo I have hooked up in the absence of the console but it turned out to be the 2 x 5W halogen bulbs, so 2x new ordered for 8 quid inc p&p
The starter relays have been reconfigured so the alternator output and ignition live activate relay one which in turn provides earth to relay two which operates the starter solenoid and is latched via a diode between starter input and 12v out, (so it feeds back ), when the engine starts 12v +12v = 0v so the relay closes and the earth to relay two drops and the starter stops, otherwise it continues until the engine does start.
Replacing the complex Cobra alarm immobilizer with a simple Bluetooth switch and a relay, when my phone is the area of the car the systems are enabled but one needs both the PIN for my phone (to turn on Bluetooth) and the PIN for the Bluetooth to pair and activate. Why a relay? Well, when the system is deactivated the relay is in NO mode and wired to the siren and battery live, opening a door switches the relay from NO to NC and sounds the alarm, simple, activate the system and ignition 12v opens the relay.
Having three main areas of work is as much as I can cut it down to at the moment; 1/. Get the engine running sweet. (clean carbs and tune, sort fan out) 2/. Interior, sort out dash side pods, make door cards, fit console and dash pods. make and fit door sills/door catches and 'A' post trims, secure seats. 3/. Bodywork, rub down gel coat to see just where and how much work is needed, repair and paint.
That's all folks.
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brakes
Jan 18, 2017 11:01:42 GMT
Post by Peter on Jan 18, 2017 11:01:42 GMT
Not that I know of. Better off looking at the Ford setup. but front and rear should be separate circuits as in front and rear.
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Post by Peter on Jan 16, 2017 15:00:24 GMT
I have had a good look through all the hundreds of photos I have of SSs and none really show the carpet in detail. I have the area you are looking at in four sections, 1, from door to door up to the parcel shelf and 2, from roof down and around to roof or the 'tunnel. 3 & 4, sides are just straight rectangular panels usually with tape bound edges. I'll see if I can do a photoshop of what I mean subject to suitable pictures of interiors.
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Post by Peter on Dec 31, 2016 14:58:12 GMT
December 30th 2016 was a good day. Full check out of the lighting systems found one crossed indicator and a slight problem with the LED front indicators flash rate being a bit erratic but a 10Ohm resistor will fix that. The 'central connection board' idea really paid dividends as I was able to trace all systems from a single point rather than chase all over the car for a connection. Attachment DeletedThe small PCB in the bottom left failed so I am getting a more robust switch controlled by my phone's bluetooth, at least I can't forget my phone. Attachment DeletedA revision of the headlight and DRL relays paid off too with a more robust system and one less relay needed so I was able to use that to enable the headlight washers when the headlights are on. One of the micro switches broke its lever mounting slot so I am looking to fit stronger ones, possibly one of these as they are double pole so I would only need one and a cam on the shaft. Attachment DeletedThe new self aligning shaft bearings are ACE! so smooth and solid and I recommend them to anyone with a SS and 928 headlight pods, it means a new 30mm x 1200mm tube to replace the 32mm one (or pay a lot more for 32mm bearings) but everything still fits. Dash side pods are not going well however, draw was a bust, too deep so needs a full rebuild of the underside and the left one needs trimming around the A post area and steering cowl but nothing serious, just time consuming. All the LEDs works but I need to make sure they are well hot glued in place, don't want them trailing behind the car and breaking off. All centre console functions and radio work although I would like to make it easier to change the button battery for the door transmitter, like a separate coin cell holder at the rear. Still need to sort out the speedo sender but that is a whole different ball game. Also tried an acrylic spray paint in the rear quarter, very nice deep black gloss, took a while to get hard and I would need a lot more prep' and primer but shows promise as it blends well with the polished area of the original gel, thereby saving a lot of time and money.
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Post by Peter on Dec 26, 2016 15:23:57 GMT
Like wise, and a great 2017. I am hoping to see a lot of Eagles at Stoneleigh next year. The Nova boys and girsls are building some very nice and unusual Novas and a few will be ready by May.
Onward and sideways. we WILL get them done.
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Post by Peter on Dec 26, 2016 15:21:01 GMT
Maybe a Ford version, the floors are different. but all VW floors are the same.
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Post by Peter on Dec 26, 2016 15:16:57 GMT
well I got seat for the eagle from a hundai coupe nice condition grey/black leather the runners were flat had to chop 1" off each end and drill a couple fresh holes will upload a pic when I'm finished fitting but have to say just seeing the passenger side fitted it makes me feel a whole lot better abought the car was beginning to think I was wasting my time /effort. amazing how a step forward can change your mind set . You will have MANY such moments and steps forward, also a few backwards but it's all good fun and will be worth it in the end.
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Post by Peter on Dec 23, 2016 14:00:08 GMT
Hi Benno,
Welcome, I have taken the liberty of re-posting yoir email on this forum .
I hope you have time to 'play' with your 'toy', I find I have LESS time since I retired, so many things to do.
We look forward to seeing some posts on the forum and a build diary soon.
Peter
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Post by Peter on Dec 23, 2016 13:56:31 GMT
Re posting from an EOC Email recived.
Hi Guys
My name is Benno Hembo from Denmark.
I have an Eagle SS. it is not on the road. I bought it about 8 years ago last guy gave up finishing it. It has been living inside ever since. It is build on a VW. I bought it just as a toy for when I one day retire.
Marry Christmas and Happy New year
Benno Hembo
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Post by Peter on Dec 22, 2016 13:20:24 GMT
Started to trouble shoot the electrics yesterday and guess what, bugger all worked! Turned out the super reliable latching relay board that has operated faultlessly all year and is the 'ignition switch', failed, so I'm looking at a more reliable alternative without needing a key as such. Thinking Arduino and a finger print reader maybe or a Bluetooth switch operated by just having your phone with you. The master 30A strip fuse blew but the replacement hasn't, strange, I must have shorted out something whilst poking about the relay block and apart from the fuel pump not much else worked so a lot of digging needed, the remote relay board work perfectly with the doors and display lights all functioning as it is supposed to, including the centre console door buttons. The centre console fitted perfectly so just need to make up a pair of 'L' brackets to hold the upper part to the cross bar to hold it firmer. The side pods need a bit of work, the 'document draw' I spent so much time on is too deep and hits the cross member, I only have 17cm to work with, so it all had to come out and it will need a rethink and the left pod needs relief around the 'A' post but the right one is OK
Seems having everything made and "just a matter of bolting it all in", doesn't work, much better developing as you go, one stage at a time.
Christmas or whatever you call it, is upon us and nothing much for a month now work wise so I hope to get it all sorted by new year.
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Post by Peter on Dec 19, 2016 10:06:43 GMT
Interesting to see Claytonrite mentioned, Howard Clayton Wright, that's where my brother worked as a extrusion designer for many years, it's in Wellesbourne Hastings, between Warwick and Stratford upon Avon.
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Post by Peter on Dec 18, 2016 15:02:42 GMT
Doing it in one piece!! very unusual, normally in three main parts, tunnel and two floors. plus front and rear quarters, rear bulkhead, rear window and door sills.
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