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Post by Peter on May 15, 2017 18:20:51 GMT
Concentrating on getting it 'on the road' instead of fart arsing about like me is paying off. great progress.
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Post by Peter on May 10, 2017 21:57:57 GMT
What a day! I concentrated on loosing the door latches and associated wiring to start with and that has gone OK and I even have a door card in place but I don't like the finished result of the panel used to hide the hole, not up to standard, so I will redo that with a ribbed covering panel so it matches the centre console with edging and a button switch for the door lights.
The 2 DIN radio is a pain, been kicking about for 3 or more years and has suffered, the DVD doesn't run the discs and the Sub woofer output doesn't work so I spent way too much time messing about with the amps only to find out they were good, so I need to put things back as they were so I can use the frequency cut on the big 4 x 120 amp for the 10" woofer with the 2 x 8" three way rear Alpines and the 2 x 6 1/4" front Alpines and tweeters on the small 2 x 100 amp.
Also another slight hiccup, the Bluetooth switch works great BUT it means I can't use the Bluetooth for phone calls on the radio, one or the other, so I need to see what I can do with the new start/stop button and maybe some other security device.
Speedo fixed, new bulb and I had the modules in the wrong sides, dough! Just need to find out how many pulses needed per wheel rev' so I can make the speed sensor.
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Post by Peter on May 10, 2017 21:44:49 GMT
Ah, I see. I take it you will box over the cylinders with a heel rest so you will be feet up, a bit F1. The floor is the same foot print as the VW so it's the same tight space as well ad the 17.5" seat width. The Intratrim seats are nice, if not a bit, well, a lot pricey but very nice. I was lucky to get some of the last seats from MJ Exhausts for £150 plus £50 shipping to Spain some five years ago. Making great progress, look for more updates.
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Post by Peter on May 10, 2017 7:16:35 GMT
Pedals look smart, much better than my Locost ones which I have modified and still need to do more to as my size 11 boots foul the neighboring pedal so I need to bend clutch and throttle out a bit as well as make a new throttle with a curve in so it clears a bias adjusting cable. will look like this Can't quite picture how that fits as it looks like the cylinders face backwards and under the feet?
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Post by Peter on May 9, 2017 14:42:52 GMT
Getting there with two more steps forward instead of backward. I decided, after cracking my skull on them for the umpteenth time, the door latches from the MkII Golf are not needed, the actuators hold the doors down just fine so they and all the related electronics can come off. The ignition system has changed a bit and I have upgraded the start button to the latest type that has an ACC mode rather than a simple on/off one. 1, press for ACC, press again for ignition and start and press a third time to kill it all. Options, press brake and button to start/stop, all sorts of options with this one including remote start when handbrake applied and linking to alarm and locking. Radio RCAs were a problem as one side of the smaller amp was shorting out so no front speakers and cutting out when I turned up the volume. luckily I had a spare Soundlab 2 x 75w one kicking about, after 20 years and now all four main speakers work and the dash nearly 100%, just the left halogen bulb not working so I can't read the gauges, so easy fix. Attachment DeletedDurite hazard switch broke so I have a new one on the way, buggered if I'm going to change it for a differnt one after all the trouble wiring that on in. Fan is great, on high speed it is a real blast from the dash vents and on slow it is good enough to keep the cabin cooled. I had to make a new link on the relays and a tweak on the micro switches to get the headlights to do what I wanted them to do, not what they felt like doing, so they all work fine now. Need to make a box for the micro switches because as I have mounted side by side to the rear of the bar rather than one each side and they are twice as big as the old ones, they stick out a bit and are vulnerable to getting clobbered. All the buttons on the console work for the doors via radio and I have changed the mode to 'keep pressed' to operate, that way I get to make sure they are shut completely and also the annoying 'bouncing' at the top of opening is eliminated. All the switches work for lights, fogs and fan. Just a big hole where the old starter button was and a space on the electronics board, ready for the new one when it arrives in a couple of weeks. Forgot just how little head room there is, I guess I just 'hunker down' a bit more.
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Post by Peter on May 9, 2017 14:09:59 GMT
Bloody amazing! At least 3 people have been bleating on how they would like a ready to drive SS and now there is a cracker for sale,,,, not a sniff.
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Post by Peter on May 9, 2017 14:00:55 GMT
That is a LOT of crazing to sort out, at least you are doing a 'proper job' and digging it all out. I must admit I didn't go to the extent of wheel arch work you have, I just slapped a load of filler on the inside and smoothed it of and rounded it when dry, seems to have stayed there for 25 years but then I hit it and had to wack a bit more on.
Onward and sideways.
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Post by Peter on May 1, 2017 12:35:35 GMT
to hear only two Eagles at the show this year, maybe next year a better turn out as there are lots of Eagles being worked on. Big respect for those who did urn up, with or without Eagles. Now, only 12 months warning, Stoneleigh 2018 is coming. Glad the weather held up. I was watching from afar and could see potential rain sweeping in from the Atlantic, we ended up with it here and Friday and Saturday was a wash out with over 50 buggy tours lost. not good. so three days work lost, even worse for me on hourly pay. As I only get to come over once in a couple of years I may get the chance next year, depending on work, I am the only self employed buggy mechanic on the Costa del Sol so I am busy October to May and crazy from mid-April to September. Not much time for the SS either as Sunday the wife has me out doing a boot sale, getting shot of stuff we don't need and clustering up the house and pays for the electric bill etc and no days off.
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Post by Peter on Apr 29, 2017 13:09:36 GMT
Hi , I'm just in the process of buying an Eagle RV.All I know is its Orange and Black,has both soft and hard top and doors.Running 1600 Cortina running gear. I hope to have it road worthy for Stoneleigh show 2016.Hope to see other members there,my only worry is there doesn't seem many around now. And a year on?
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Post by Peter on Apr 28, 2017 17:23:08 GMT
Gal has emailed me with an SS for sale and it is a Beauty and it is a MkI too! Probably up there in the top 5 SSs I have seen. An all original interior with OEM bucket seats and a beautiful black shiny body. Engine is a 1696cc type 3 and has a clear bill of health in a pre-MoT check. 3" dropped floors. 1969 chassis 119144556 Variant engine W0078534 Location to follow but really who cares, it's worth any trip to get it. Just in case you are busting to know engine spec as standard is; W type 4 and Porsche 914 1970/71 1700cc - 8.2:1 compression - 80hp Anyone chomping at the bit with a very decent wad ready can contact though me until I get more info.
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Post by Peter on Apr 23, 2017 18:52:53 GMT
Well Gavin,
Seems the battle is well and truly joined.
I will try and answer all your questions but I don’t know everything so it is on the forum so everyone has a chance to jump in. Please.
First off, there are no "Proper parts" on a kit car, you do what you what to do, how you want to do it, every one is differnt. If you want to fit Corvette style rear lights or trailer lights. Single, pentagram or side mounted overlapping wipers. Even change from gull wing to ‘Lambo ‘, standard front mount or ‘Enzo’ doors, all good. Interior is 100% down to you.
Rear bumper off of a Nova, I’ll pass that on the the Nova boys.
The side window fixings depend on whether it is a MkI or a MkII or MkIII, (VW or Ford) the MkI has two ‘hinges’ in the forward edge and the MkII and II are fixed in the lower front corner and the upper front corner where there is an extension to the aperture. These just have a 6mm internal grommet (for 4mm glass) in the ‘hinge’ holes and a larger 8mm internal at the rear for a flip open catch from a cars rear window, that ctach is common to all three models.
The external door handles are early Ford escort or Fiesta I believe, but there again you can chose any flap type such as Volvo for instance, that will do the job. They need to pull a cable via a pulley to flip the door latch which a simple bonnet catch. You could use bear claw catches, I have Golf MkII in mine but it is not any easy fit and requires extensive modifications the door sill. The internal handle again are early Leyland but again any door pull will work, I quite like the oval Clio ones, cheap too. Scan Ebay for ideas.
As far as the engine cover or lid goes, I have a Ford version on mine as I didn’t like all the 1970’s look louvers and I have opened the center vent.
I have made a lip around my engine bay after rain buggered the engine and I am doing a similar thing in the bonnet but with it just draining down the front corners to holes in the floor.
Engine wise, no, you do not need all the tin ware. Absolutely no point, I have alloy cylinder covers which extend down past the exhaust pipes with type 4 deflectors under the cylinders. There is so much air flow around the engine bay there is no point in trying to keep the hot lower air from raising up and entering the fan and inlets (filters), I have 120mm trunking from the rear scoops to the oil cooler and the louvered fire wall in front of the fan intake.
Staying warm and demisting in the winter is a problem with a standard bug but once warmed up they can get quite toasty. Retaining the ducts and heat exchangers and running pipes up the sills under the doors will give you that benefit and also branching out into the cabin behind the seats where the VW has pipes under the rear seats controlled by the handles next to the hand brake as normal. OR you can fit ‘J’ `pipes as replacements for the heat exchanges and wrap them with coils of copper pipe and wrap those with exhaust bandage and then run water through them to a standard ‘mini’ heater/demister unit using a 12v water pump.
The VW steering box can be angled BUT the track rod fouls the top of the tunnel requiring it to be bent or a ‘dent’ made in the top of the tunnel, OR fit a universal UJ in the bottom of the column, (from CBS).
The difference in engines is a bit more than single or twin (inlet) port, there is also dual (oil pressure) valve 1600, as on my T2 1600 AH unit. To change from single port to twin port is ‘just’ to change the heads and then you can fit the dual carbs etc. NOT CHEAP. Nor is full flow with external oil filter, a good mod but needs a bit of skill and know how and an up-rated pump is also good.
Door hinges, Oh boy, so many have failed.
CAREFULLY split the roof inner and outer and dig out the rust crap that was the hinge plate and make, or have made, stainless steel copies. Clean out the cavity and a good soak with acetone to liven up the GRP and then using Sikaflex or similar, bond the new one in and clamp the whole lot together for a couple of days and all will be well again. Don’t try to fiber glass the hinges in, new resin and old resin don’t work to well. Of course any new parts can be had, at a price, from poly creations. Rams are universal ball ended struts such as Cavalier, Astra, Sierra, etc with about 8” travel, (or 50 quids worth of electric actuator each side). The doors should have a recess in the rear of the door frame between the roof and the ‘door’ behind the window area. The bottom fixes the a bracket in the rear window aperture just above the ‘parcel shelf, this a home brewed effort by Eagle made of sheet steel in a open box shape riveted to the body with the ‘ball’ in a mate “Rivnut” and the door one is also a steel plate riveted on with a mate “Rivnut” in it.
Here is no official “source list” other than the build manual, such as it is, on the EOC tech page.
Seats, you are lucky the have those, hens teeth indeed, they look in good condition too and really easy to smarten up with a re-cover. The alternatives are few and far between due to the narrow 17.5” width of the VW floor pan, The seats I have are Chinese but still 150 plus shipping and hard to find these days but hey do pop up on Ebay from time to time. Bedfor racal (Suzuki carry) seats are my favorites but getting scarce, very comfy, they fit perfectly, reline but no very sporty, even when re-covered as mine were by Itertrim in Telford. I do have a pair of Westfield seats but they are way to small for me.
You have cockpit lining panels, you jammy bugger, they are really rare, I would love a copy of the ‘A’ post trims as well as door panels, although those are easy to make from hardboard or 3mm ply.
Seems we both started with a Charger, my ‘bargine pack stuffed in a ‘Luton’ van was a Charger body, (mutilated) and the VW chassis, 1600 AH engine and boxes of bits for 350 quid was the start of it all, I flogged the Charger body for 25 quid and bouht the SS from Eagle for 1600. and that was in 1995 and still on going.
Now who’s bored Zzzzzzz
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Post by Peter on Apr 23, 2017 14:26:48 GMT
A certain Gavin Jones has been sending me emails asking about this that and the other regarding his Eagle SS restoration, so I thought it about time we had a build diary for Humpty. even if I have to do it. so here goes with his latest rendition of HELP! Anyone wanting to jump in with help, info and advise PLEASE DO. Hi Peter, Gavin again! I'll try not to go on too much as I have no wish to upset the 'Eagle oracle'. However, with little feedback coming from clubs and forums, you are my only source of accurate info on the SS. I hope work on Ukhozi is progressing well and the photos of it I keep finding on the net are providing me with a stratospheric benchmark to aim at. Thanks for that, I think! In no particular order, I have a few more mysteries regarding parts needed for 'SS Humpty's' restoration. They are either missing altogether or too far gone to identify their origin. I've also pasted in a few shots of the work so far for your amusement. (Results don't always match the aspirations of the owner but it's what's drives me all the same) First, the two Eagle SS shells I came across. The Mk1 is an 'unused' VW version. The second, the Mk2, is definitely intended for a front engine, going by the cockpit floor and rear floor where the air-cooled engine would have gone. It also has a nice chassis to go with it. One of the cars had possibly been registered as I found a reg plate mounted in a detached black fibreglass bumper come number plate. However I can't identify which it might have come from. It might even be a different car altogether possibly a Nova. Photo included. Some research has revealed it is definitely off a Nova but which one I have no idea. Donor car in a supporting role here. Anyone want a Nova bumper? I’ll also have a Beetle shell and good 1300 engine to sell... just a thought. Scavenging some of the parts from these two cars, yes, hands up, I turned vulture and got what I could as the opportunity to obtain spares and replacement parts for these beasts is rarer than hen's teeth. Having obtained some glass side windows (my own car had only holes) I now need hinges and catches/stays for them. What they once were is now unidentifiable through the rust. As I do not have access to scrap yards, hunting for 'something similar' is not an option. My only source for parts is the internet, for which I often need specific make, model and even year, to obtain replacement parts. Could you tell me what I need to look for, regarding the hinges and catches. I'll worry about how the hell they fit if I can get hold of some! What is now rust I assume was once a pair of door handles, locks, and internal door handles/pulls. I have no idea what these were originally off or if there are better alternatives to source replacements. The door catch is also an archaeologists nightmare and now totally useless for purpose. I don't know what these were originally from but wondered if 'bearclaw' locks would work as an alternative. I'm creating new bushes and pivots for the engine bay lid and hopefully, a ram strut to hold it open. Would it be advisable to vent the lid to aid cooling? I was also considering completing the ducting from the dummy intakes on the rear quarter and directing them into the engine bay, where I'm not sure yet. Difficult to see in the photo but the rear end was completely cut away by previous ‘owners’ and the oversized light holes also needed filling in. I hope to use round recessed ones instead as per the Corvette. At the other end of the crumpled shell I'm adapting a pair of Audi TT bonnet hinges to replace the basic Eagle pin pivots. These have integral gas ram assist and if I can get them to work, they should be ideal. I can send photos when complete, if you are interested. While on the subject of the front 'boot', I have almost rectified the lack of any water seal. To prevent the ‘boot storage area’ becoming a cold water tank, I have fabricated a fiberglass lip around the opening (see photo). When finished it will have an edge strip to finish it off and drain holes at the lowest point. I suspect something similar will be needed around the engine bay. On the subject of engines, do air-cooled engine need all their tinware, specifically the tray sections. I doubt the Eagle engine bay would provide a seal around the edge anyway. Any thoughts on how to stay warm and demisted in winter, also cool in summer. My set-up is likely to do away with the VW Beetle hot air system. Another instance where the headaches quickly return when trying to solve the problem. The repaired and modified console is now a hybrid of a Mk1 and a later Mk2. (photo below) To avoid hacking into the underside of the dash I wondered if the angle of the steering column could be adjusted. Can the angle be lowered at all? I have a donor vehicle with a nicely restored chassis, unknown gearbox and disposable body. I also have an alternative and reasonably sound 1641cc single port to fit to it. I would like to have the engine professionally up-rated to twin port, twin carb but am having trouble finding anyone in the Oswestry/Shropshire area to take it on. That particular search continues. Back to doors. Do you think anyone still has doors that work using the original hinges? Mine have rusted so badly they have blown apart the fibreglass as well seizing solid. My hope is to fabricate a stainless replacement, then open up the head off the door to bond them in to replace the lumps of rust. Might there be an easier way? If not, I'll let you know how it goes. I still have no ram supports for the doors and no idea what they should be. Without specific specs I can't order replacements. Do you know what they came off originally or what size and strength they should be? If I can get some, the next thing will be how they are fitted and where they go. There is no sign of mounting brackets either. I’m still unable to obtain an original Eagle SS source list. I suspect the Holy Grail would be easier to find, if not as useful in fixing up the car. Random thought... will you be visiting Stoneleigh for the kit car rally this year? I hope to go along, albeit without Humpty just in a tin Golf. Amongst the scavenged items, I appear to have found a pair of original bucket seats, presumable available at the time of purchase as an optional extra. I’m hoping they are Eagle in origin and not another Nova extra but I have yet to decide. I'm considering having them recovered (if I can find someone interested in taking on the task) and can only hope the desire for originality is not too uncomfortable when complete. Although not reclining, they look to be a good fit. Also finding its way into my collection is a set of cockpit lining panels, trimmed with matching pooh-brown vinyl. Not a good look! Assuming I haven’t bored the ‘floor pan’ off you or out-drivelled my welcome, I hope to hear from you soon and wish you well in your own endeavours. How the hell did we get ourselves into all this!? My plans started with the idea of restoring an Embeesea Charger but the seller couldn’t come up with the paperwork. The eagle was ‘plan B’. I’m beginning to see what the B stands for now!? Kind regards, Gavin
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Post by Peter on Apr 5, 2017 16:04:41 GMT
TEN
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Post by Peter on Apr 4, 2017 16:47:36 GMT
Much as I hate to admit it I am in love,,,, with the 2014 Corvette interior. Attachment DeletedI think I could alter my dash to very loosely resemble it and include the two 4" side monitors, there would be a couple of switches for the monitors as I wouldn't want them on all the time and possible all behind a black screen as now. Attachment DeletedThis is a VERY rough Paintshop effort and in no way represents a finished item. Just an idea,,, again.
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Post by Peter on Apr 4, 2017 9:49:15 GMT
BOBBY
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Post by Peter on Apr 3, 2017 15:06:26 GMT
Good find Gavin. Anyone up for a 'few weekends work', Looks like both VW based, front one is a MkII and the rear one possibly a MkI. If anyone has more details or history on these two let me know please. I have added them to the register (VWSS22 & VWSS23)for this months update but I would like more info, reg number etc.
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Post by Peter on Apr 3, 2017 15:03:56 GMT
BEAR
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Post by Peter on Mar 30, 2017 21:23:45 GMT
Work sill getting in the way, at least the rash of annual tests are done and all past but tours are building up and so are the repairs. plus the Mercedes A170CDi has chucked the alternator so that's 250 out of pocket this week. It would have to be the water cooled one not the MUCH cheaper air cooled one of course and I only have to drop the rear of the front subframe to get to it, bloody crap mobile.
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Post by Peter on Mar 19, 2017 10:22:45 GMT
Not a lot to report as work is cranking up and 5 Buggys needed ITV(MoT). Suzuki AN400 engine rebuild is well on the way with a new crankshaft installed with a very expensive Vertex piston kit. Very careful rebuild of the four valve head now before refitting to Burgman.
Need to buy some fresh petrol and fire up the VW engine and tune in the newly cleaned carburetors. Interior has stalled while all this has gone on but stainless steel is marked out for cutting for the door sills and dash brackets.
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Post by Peter on Mar 10, 2017 12:05:41 GMT
Bloody latching relay doesn't work out of the box so a delay on that front. Interior at the door seal and sill plate stage only to have my cut-off tool bust inside but a new one has arrived so zzzzzzzip with a 3" disc and I'll have the stainless cut out in no time. I have also decided that rather than remake the dash pod ends for a better fit to the door opening I have made some stainless end plates which double as brackets and to just make a new under section for the passenger side rather than do a new glove box, after all I do have a glove box in the armrest anyway .
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Post by Peter on Mar 9, 2017 18:50:20 GMT
Has your car got torsion bar front suspension? and do you know of any companies that can supply a double wishbone coil over upgrade? I have heard people talk of such a mod for the beetle. Maybe for the rear suspension also. Best bet for the rear is the 1302/3 IRS rear end, also fitted to the 1500 semi auto which came with torsion front/IRS rear. You can convert to IRS with all the IRS bits (including the gearbox and drive shafts) and a couple of brackets welded onto the torsion bar or a 'super beetle' chassis with strut front end and fit a torsion bar frame head and torsion or Red9 front. There is also a coil over conversion for both IRS and swing axle and of course for those with deep pockets, the air suspension kits. If you 'Google' "Red 9 VW suspension" all will be reviled. Yes, mine has torsion front end, it really is the only option apart from the VERY expensive Red 9 conversion to double wishbone and coil over. I have sway-a-ways and shorter dampers with special ball joints for lowered suspension and anti-bump steer bushes which reverses the steering ball joints, heavy duty roll bar and poly bushes all round front and rear and Rack and Pinion steering, Wilwood 4 pot calipers and 20mm vented discs. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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Post by Peter on Mar 7, 2017 19:04:01 GMT
Well LUC, is it your car? Certainly looks like it.
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Post by Peter on Mar 4, 2017 22:29:08 GMT
Brilliant work and again superb build pages. So much easier and cleaner to do a clean and paint item by item before proceeding to next stage and the end result is very professional. Great work. I use www.everyexhaustpart.com very helpful. and and Ebay too.
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Post by Peter on Mar 4, 2017 22:20:05 GMT
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Post by Peter on Feb 26, 2017 17:56:28 GMT
Bit of a bummer, went to the 'shed' for a few hours on Friday and as soon as I opened up the guy from the cafe upstairs arrived with a couple of plumbers and proceeded to remove a 5 meter section of totally clogged 2" piping from the ceiling above the car. three hours later I could get on with work instead of helping the useless buggers and guarding the windscreen.
Bluetooth relay temp install proved very successful, worked a treat as soon as I either came in range, (about 10 meters) or switched on the phones Bluetooth. Working in conjunction with the latching relay for the start button I have a very simple and hopefully secure ignition system as the NC side of the relay is hooked into the siren (that was on the Cobra alarm) and the neg side to the door, bonnet and boot switches, simpels.
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Post by Peter on Feb 26, 2017 17:46:21 GMT
But of moderating gone on, SS bodies and RV pending moved to 'for sale' board.
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Post by Peter on Feb 23, 2017 18:05:40 GMT
Hi the donor car for my car was a Ford Cortina and was actually built by eagle as their demo with a view to been raced but never made it to the track. I bought it back in 1986 and had it on the road until 1990 and it has been stored in a garage since. SET IT FREE, LET THE EAGLE FLY!
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Post by Peter on Feb 22, 2017 13:52:35 GMT
Hi Bent,
Thanks for popping on the Eagle forum, I hope we can help in some way. I had a charger back in 1994 and have restored a few too.
If it is on a Beetle chassis as it should be then it is the chassis that is type approved not the body and needs only to be registered under it's original registration number and transferred to Danish regionalisation after the appropriate test. so my Danish wife tells me.
If there is no previous registration history then you will need to go the whole single vehicle approval route and that applies to most EU countries although the test and paperwork differ considerably.
As far as what needs to done to the chassis depends on your size. normally the floor pans are dropped about 75mm to 100mm, best done by cutting along the sides next to the tunnel and outer flange roughly inline with the handbrake and bending it down and inserting a wedge and a rear section, this means the seat moves up as well as forward.
The gear shift lever is usually moved back rather than using a dog leg and the handbrake lever shortened or another type fitted, such as my Volvo 240 one on top of the tunnel. Other than that the brakes and suspension need tuning to suit the lighter weight of the car, some 30% less.
Hope that helps for a start. Peter
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Post by Peter on Feb 22, 2017 13:41:43 GMT
Big congrates on the MoT, a major step in any project, look forward to seeing some photos.
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Post by Peter on Feb 19, 2017 15:48:03 GMT
In a search on www.howmanyleft.com I was surprised at how few 1600 beetle are actually accounted for; 2016..........................Registered................................SORN Quarter Q1......Q2......Q3.....Q4--------Q1.....Q2......Q3.....Q4 ............. 47......47...... 46......x............29.....29...... 33 So if you're looking for a VW T1 1600 donor, best of luck.
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