Cheers Ram mate thanks for the info,,,see you at Stoneleigh ?
Yep, will be at Stoneleigh, but girlfriend does not like camping, so will only be there one day - Sat or Sunday.
BUT "done my back in" in Jan and been on pain killers for six months now, but will Try to get back axle off and new tank fitted ( the last job ) but no promises.
CANCELLED Newark Kit Car Festival Direct from Newark facebook page, says : -
15 June at 07:39 ·( year 2021 )
Good Afternoon Everyone. Due to Government restrictions not being lifted until towards the end of July, we have decided to cancel this years event until July 2022. Any tickets or trade stand deposits can be transferred to 2022, or to Stoneleigh 2021. The Dates for Stoneleigh 2021 will be 28th - 29th August. More information will be available on the Stoneleigh Facebook page within 24 hrs.
CANCELLED Newark Kit Car Festival Direct from Newark facebook page, says : -
15 June at 07:39 ·( year 2021 )
Good Afternoon Everyone. Due to Government restrictions not being lifted until towards the end of July, we have decided to cancel this years event until July 2022. Any tickets or trade stand deposits can be transferred to 2022, or to Stoneleigh 2021. The Dates for Stoneleigh 2021 will be 28th - 29th August. More information will be available on the Stoneleigh Facebook page within 24 hrs.
to be picky, but don't forget to ensure the insides of the hollow sections are treated against rust. Seen too many holow sections just fall apart, rusting from the inside, having been fitted with rust inside from day one.
Travel restrictions are off so away to the 'shed' again
Peter, just put a hold on all those modifications you want to do, but the thing works fine now. Get it out there, or it will seize up, like mine was starting to do, especialy electrical connections, but yours is an electrical masterpiece and mainly new.
The problem is, and always has been, to get the long term commitment to do a position. several people have offered but not taken it up and a couple have started but faded away.
I am happy to be your membership/treasurer and answer ALL membership requests.
Graham - ( RaM );
I again offer to administer the membership side of things, ( Treasurer should stay with the committee members ) but for some reason I have been rejected ( I say Rejected only because no reply was given to me if i would be acceptable or not.)
I currenty have a web site for a block of flats, administering service charges and legal requirements in connection with same ( Can't show you as it's for shareholders / leaseholders only and not for public viewing. A Website under constuction ( but semi active ) for houses for rent in U.S.A. that I own, and a refurbish option of houses I can supply on behalf of U.K. interested clients. My previous and current " Different to the norm cars" at sites.google.com/site/hisautos/
I can receive Cheques, Money, Bank transfers, and will not ignor emails requesting membership. Have credit card size laminating machine for membership cards, etc. I have not yet applied to be a member, as from above posts, it seems to be a waste of time.
I can suply an email iaddress, telephone numbers, home address etc.
if the committee dont like this post, but it has to be said. And commitee members can decide who does or does not handle membersip applications via a simple mail in vote ( I do it all the time - with my leasehold management companies - registered address at my home address )
My offer and comitment is self evident, via information given on Google web page ( Eagle page 2 ) and above.
I look to the committee members to finalise this membership problem very shortly.
Regards Graham ( RaM )
Last Edit: Feb 11, 2021 14:04:45 GMT by Graham Wood
I applied for club membership to helenjlee1@aol.com on the 2/9/2020, I guess I sent to wrong address as I didn't hear anything back 😁😁
Hi Pedro, Been a bit of confusion from helen as she has an AOL account but it should be scottmadecrafts@gmail.com and personal mail is helenjlee1@aol.com
to be anoying again, but if someone is responsible for issuing membership forms and/or membership cards, it should not matter which email address THEY receive asking to be a member, they still "Land on their desk" but it seems the person responsible just ignors emails for membership if they receive an email for THEM, but it does not meet their critera as to which email address they want to use.
You receive an email asking to be a member, and you should reply to that email, and not just IGNOR IT !
The next cock up i envisage will be - that scottmadecrafts@gmail.com is only replied to if someone wants to purchase face masks or embroydery work.via website
S-o-r-r-y but I too wrote to the designated email address over 10 years ago, and never got a reply, and many more people too did not receive a reply. Just look at the shout box for this year - ( at bottom of page -3 there this year ).
No -- totally unacceptable.
I am happy to be your membership/treasurer and answer ALL membership requests. I think 10 years of problems with email addresses is long enough.
If committee members are not doing what they are supposed to do, you sack them ---- end of...
I look forward to receiving confirmation of change of membership contact and or membership/treasurer replacement.
Applications for CLUB membership, as opposed to forum membership which is still free and open to all,
The email is incorrectly given and it should be scottmadecrafts@aol.com I will be altering it on the site as soon as I can get on it, password problem.
Hi. I notice from previous problems with membership address, that you mentioned Helen would delete emails if they did not have "Membership" in the subject title ! or other such things that mentioned the club. May I respectfully, and strongly suggest that if this new email address goes to the same person, you should change who receives membership requests, as it seems that facebook "scottmadecrafts" may well be the same person.
TO Forum Members.
It is important that we should pay a membership fee, as "The Committee" have to pay for a web site, and much writing and phone calls to obtain allocated spaces at a few shows. Together with signs / flags / eats / towing a caravan to shows,etc etc.which at present comes out of the committee pockets.
When I ran the Nova Owners club ( the first sucsessful one ) I paid for everything. Then being an Eagle agent, paid for indoor space at shows, as a company.
So when the email address is confirmed, may I urge all forum members to pay a membership fee, to HELP with the costs of running the club.
Not so long ago, we nearly lost the web site, due to lack of funds.
I know what it's like to run a car clubs / social clubs. Members want a club ( what ever form that takes ) and the only person paying for everything was me.( including adverts in local papers ) It got so that members of one club decided to reduce the membership fee to zero, so i said "sod it " - therefore no more adverts, therefore no new members, and I stopped attending. After 6 months, the club was no more, as no one could be bothered to place adverts or get things organised.
Eagle Fee used to be £ 15 per year.
Also, May I put it to the Committee, that if anyone wishes to put their car on a club show stand, that they be a fully paid up member, siting what happens when no membership fees are obtained - as outlined above.
Before ordering ANY type of Eagle windscreen, check for sag. From memory, the bulkhead on the RV sags. The top of the roof sags on eagle SS on early models.
So if going to order a new screen, take old one out first, clean ALL gunge / sealant off everything. then offer up your old / original screen and see if the aperture has sagged. You will soon find out when the glass wont go back in properly.
Don't order a screen to fit a sagged / distorted body, as it was the screen that stopped it sagging even more than it had done. Fairy liquid = yes, but very watered down. I carry a small mini wiper blade to get the water off, if its soaking wet, even for my normal cars. Going out in it just a short run, car just starts getting warm, heats up interiors slightly, but not enough miles / or blower time to remove water from airborne particles = soaking wet front screen this time of year in the mornings sometimes. ( always after a short run to the shops and back the day before. )
If that is what the car looks like now you have one of the best I have seen, very nice, a couple of weekends should see it it sorted then.
Thanks Peter.
I try and be different with my cars. but no fancy chassis, engine transplants, inboard disks and the like. If you want a performance car, go save up for one. Wheel arch trim to change ( tarnished inside the plastic ). Fuel tank to change. Thought I had a line blockage so put an airline from pump to tank, which seems to have no vent pipe and i left the cap on, so tank got a bit fatter, and now leaks. Have new tank. Of course it was the fuel pump dried up, seals not working. The normal story with rubber type diaphragms in carbs and pumps. It's also the ethanol in the fuel that slowly destroys them.
Mine is nearly on the way to M.O.T. Car would roll, but all brakes seized eventually, as after 25 years, the rust buildup gets just too much to let the car roll. New O.E.M. calipers, slave cylinders, back drums and pads / shoes almost done. Engine perfect. 6000 miles on fully recon engine from 1988 to 1995, then methodically run almost often, to operating temp, and if going to be left or a long time, good amount of Redex down carb then switched off. ( prevents rust inside ) Just normal electrical connections to clean, fit new headlamps, wish and pray, and should be good in a few weeks.
Your pictures are far too large. Actual sizes are 4600 x 3400 pixels. That's more than 4 times bigger than my screen. Resize to 800 / 1000 wide, and reload to server to save bandwidth and slow loading on screen.
Hope you have spring washers under those nuts and not just plain washers ?. A thread is an inclined plane, wrapped round a cylinder, and we all know what happens on an inclined plane.
This is not a reply to Chameleon. But more experiences on front and rear engined cars.
1 ) First build was a Red Nova, V.W. rear 1600 "Variant" rear engine without the vertical black cooling, but fan on back of engine, and a higher compression engine, and twin webers, jetted on a dyno. NO weight on the front and added paving slabs in front for added weight, cos **lethal** in the wet
( **IF you treat it as a car made by major car manufactures, tested, developed, refined constantly, and millions invested before car hits the road - sports car.** )
2 ) Built SS ( Latest body ) Ford 2.0L front engined, twin DCOE40's. Good weight on front, and NO weight on rear, hence sticking to 14 inch wheels. Could be ** Lethal** in the wet, but good for doing 180 degree instant ( slow moving ) turns by just turn wheel and jab the Loud pedal. Not something you want to do when cornering.
3 )Bought Red Eagle SS ex demo from Rob Buds Eagle cars firm -2.0 L front ford engine. ( Was an agent also )Again, even bigger tyres,( ** ) but had to send it back for repair, as it failed M.O.T. on rear suspension bracketary reinforcing which was none existent. So development of rear suspension on eagle cars was none existent, or not worth the expence on low margin, low production numbered kit cars.
4) Semi-Built a White Kit Porch 911 on special ladder frame chassis, but never got to drive it -- sold as unfinished ( had too many cars and one had to go ) but would still be too light on the front end.
5) Built White Eagle RV. front ford 2.0L with white soft top. And automatic - never had to slip the clutch to get over rocks or ramps. Just press the pedal till it moves forward -- Was great, BUT - Exceptionally Lethal ( ** ) with larger diameter wheels.
6) Have Ferrari 355 ( Mr2 mid engined Turbo 2.0 L )half built. Now THAT'S how a kit car should be, and look forward to beating every SS and RV round a track.
7) Have 2 Lincoln Mk IV's 2.5 ton massive cars, which if you try to drive fast could also be lethal.
some cars are at - - - - will add later.
So just some info ( important ) for those embarking on thinking any eagle has perfect handling.
Last Edit: May 19, 2020 20:07:29 GMT by Graham Wood
If you want a car that is unstable, and even more so in the wet with extra large tyres that will have virtually no weight on them at the back, ( less p.s.i. / sq. inch than designed for ) . and excessive power then we await the news reports, "Driver loses rear end control ( tyres too big for weight )leading to death of 15 people at bus stop", then proceed.
I've got wide rims 14", and Eagle factory derated lowered springs.( derated means softer, so expect more travel over bumps ) Car weighs considerably less than a Cortina, so derated springs are a must. Front springs... I had to cut the front bump stops in half ( shortened ). So no room for improvement at the front. Rear springs o.k. but still too much gap ( but acceptable ) above rear tyres.
Driving with standard cortina springs is a bone shaker. My current springs are fine ( for me )
Lowering the rear can be done by moving the top spring square holder upwards, at least it gets rid of "some" of the gap at the top of the wheels with 14" wheels.( yet to do mine ) But be careful, as the chassis were not always perfectly matched each side at the rear on the spring locators, so time spent checking chassis height from ground ( with all wheels on ) and distance from top underside of rear wheel arch to ground.
Be careful with derated springs, as they tend to be shorter, and just -- "just may" pop out if car leaves the ground, so jack up on chassis till rear wheels off ground and see if you need axle straps to stop rear axle going down too far so springs don't wobble around and possibly fall out. Shock absorbers may limit the travel.
Eagle SS ( ford ) is a kit car, and suspension was not a hot topic to experiment with at Eagle cars.
According to Peter ( web page admin )the V.W. needs a roll bar, but the SS does not need one .... BUT. get the one he has for roll over protection. ALSO at ear height, the tube has a welded boss to attach the seat belt to.( they go inside the car.) and there are two slots in the back wall for the flat bar to poke through to attach a 3/8" flat bar down to the chassis, at about 45 degrees. Attaching a seat belt to fiber glass wont save your life.
You will need some ( lots ) of lead weight over the rear axle to keep the rear wheels on the road, as there is no weight there whatsoever. You will spin your wheels forever if you don't, and