My RV failed it's mot

[derekkitcar]

finally I bought the right part must be the first time this year

[Deleted]

How is it going Derek? Back on the road yet?

[derekkitcar]

No the replacment axle has been cleaned and painted. all new poly bushes installed I just need a dry weekend to but it all back together. I expect I'll have some fun refitting the brake shoes they can be right $od$ to install

[scooby]

The 8" shoe set-up?


Enjoy....

[derekkitcar]

yep that's the one whoever invented this system must have been a right sadist? it just took me 4 hours and a lot of plasters to do one side. the other side tomorrow if my fingers are still working

[scooby]

The only way I could do it was to assemble the brake shoes and adjuster off the car, and fit the top spring too (that's the real problem I had - that spring) before offering it all up to the hub.

Handbrake cable on first, and then shoogle the whole lot and the horizontal adjuster bar just manages to 'slip' between the back of the hub and the front of the brake cylinder, and the shoes fall into place. NO way whatsoever could I pull that spring into place with the shoes fitted first. I couldn't even remove the darned things at the start of the job - I had to remove both shoes, adjuster and spring in one piece!

Fitting the bottom spring - which is larger diameter and 'weaker' - was fairly easy.

(Someone will now tell me I got the 2 springs the wrong way around...)

And the only way I could get the top spring into place (and you should have seen the things I tried!) was to set the assembled shoes & adjusters on the floor, fit the spring loop into the RH slot, and then use an electrician's screwdriver (narrow shaft, flat blade) to lever the other hoop into place. By slipping the screwdriver through the hoop - so that the hoop lies around an inch up from the screwdriver tip - and then placing the actual tip into the receiving slot, I was able to lever the hoop over until it was above the slot, and then carefully manipulate the spring down the shaft until it was over the slot. A little more shoogling, and in it went in pretty much first time. I couldn't believe it.

(This was after about an hour of trying other things; I even screwed both shoes down to a plank of wood to keep them still, wrapped a wire around the loose spring end, and tried to use a lever to pull this wire - and spring - over the slot. Didn't work! Why? Because the brake shoe side keeps the wire and spring away from the slot surface... Grrrrrrr.)

[derekkitcar]

just finished installing the other side um I have the larger spring at the top? they will stay there right or wrong too much hassle to change them over. I couldn't get a decent photo of the adjuster stops i'll try again when I fit the axle to the car. One thing I did notice was on the original axle the hand brake cable entered the drum from the rear (where the stop should be)which is probably why they were removed from your's as well? the cable will enter from the front on my replacment axles as it should be just a matter of re-routing the cable.

[Gary]

I don't know if it's any help but the cables are meant to enter from the rear.



Taken from my build manual that Eagle gave me with the kit.

In order to allow the handbrake to trail from the rear wheels, Knock out plungers, disconnect handbrake cable from the shoes.

Remove shoes and self adjusting mechanisms and handbrake lever as complete assemblies and refit to the opposite wheel.

Replace adjusting plungers to inner holes on the back plate.

The adjustable cable should then be fitted to the offside bracket on the chassis.

When all in place, turn the cable yoke though 180 degrees to make the cable cross before fitting to the handbrake lever.


This was done because you can't get enough adjustment on the handbrake cable without further adaption if fitted as standard.

This is what I have done on mine and it works fine.....Once you get your springs on of course.

[derekkitcar]

aaggghhhhhhhhhh

[scooby]

Thanks Derek and Gary.

( I didn't reply sooner as we've been away - Alton Towers in the pouring rain wooo-hooo!)

That's how my handbrake cable is set up too, Gary. It hadn't even occurred to me that the back entry was a change from the Cortina, although I did wonder what was going on when I saw the cable crossed-over at the handbrake lever!

The reason I fitted the smaller diameter spring at the top is - that's the way they were when I started the job! I've no idea if that's correct, and Haynes - typically, as I'm beginning to realise - overlook such vital info.

(My thoughts are that, since the smaller dia spring seems to be the much firmer one, it probably does make sense for it to be at the top; that's where all the action is. All the bottom one does is just hold the shoes tucked in against the bottom pivot point. But I've no idea for sure.)

Can anyone confirm which spring goes where, please? (I'll ask on a Cortina forum too, and post back here if I get a definitive answer.)

Derek, if you could tell me how far the plunger protrudes into the hub, I'd be very grateful .

[trike]

Stronger spring goes nearest the brake cylinder.
If you think cortina brake shoes/springs are tricky,you should see some of the ones i have to deal with (HGV)

[derekkitcar]

I'v got my brake springs the wrong way around the stops protrude about 10/12mm into the drum.
got the axle in place this morning not fitted up yet though I can't get the front upper radius arm bolts to line up talked to Terryrob and I should have indtalled them first then fitted the springs and jacked the rears up, I was trying it the other way around Doh raining now so I'll try again next week end.

[scooby]

Thanks Trike.

So, assuming the stronger springs are the smaller diameter ones (they felt that way when I tried bending them), then - for once - I've done summat right. ( Derek )

Many thanks for the plunger info, Derek - just what I needed.

If you do swap your springs, try the method I used. Everything assembled off the car (except for the bottom spring), adjuster wound down to min, get the top spring into place using the 'thin-bladed screwdriver method', connect the handbrake cable, and offer it all into position.

You do need to watch out for the top shoe ends damaging the rubber piston dust seals as you then lever the shoes into place on the cylinder - I used two large screwdrivers, one on each shoe; lever one over the piston, and then keep that screwdriver in place to stop the shoe slipping off again whilst you repeat for the other side. (At least I think that's how I did it...)

For the easier bottom spring, pull both shoe ends forwards and clear of the hub seat (making sure you don't pull the top ends off the piston again!), and allow them to get close together so's the spring is an easy fit. Then lever them into place one at a time.

[scooby]

AAAAAARRRGGGHH!!!

STOP Derek! Don't re-do your springs!

Just had confirmation from a Cortina forum that the smaller springs go on t'bottom! So you got it right - geee, I'm sooo pleased for you

(I'll try and add a pic from the Ford manual later...)

[scooby]

[trike]

That's correct,for 8" drum , longer strong spring at the top, (nearest brake cylinder),i think the 9" had the longer spring at the bottom .

[derekkitcar]

Ok Thanks for the info everyone I'm getting there just hoping for some decent weather this weekend to get it all back together

[Deleted]

Derek, was it warm enough to finish the job?

Mot

[derekkitcar]

Got the axle back on eventualy but having problems bleeding the brakes (to much pedal travel)once I sort that out it's just a small fuel pipe leak and the headlights main and dipped ar wired the wrong way around doh I am hoping for some good weather this Saturday (Malvern auto jumble on Sunday) I am hoping to book it in for it's mot a week Saturday

Derek

[derekkitcar]

driver[1]Yahoooooo success the RV finally passed it's MOT today I went straight to thr post office and taxed it so she is now offically on the road. I will have to have the tracking and camber setup ASAP and I'm not happy with the brakes (too much travel) I think i'll have to re check the hand brake settings but all in all a very good day

Derek

[Deleted]

Great work Derek, look forward to seeing the RV in April :-)' relief I'm sure

I'm trying to get a Granada servo/cyclinder for mine, believe they do a touch more!

Other than that, given th fun with the back brakes, maybe theses need adjusting up a bit?

Anyway, well done, let's have a pic please !

[derekkitcar]

I'll take some photos and post them soon, in the mean time anyne out there know what the castor camber and tracking settings are supposed to be?

[Deleted]

Dec 7, 2013 20:41:09 GMT @readingeaglerv said:

Great work Derek, look forward to seeing the RV in April :-)' relief I'm sure

I'm trying to get a Granada servo/cyclinder for mine, believe they do a touch more!

Other than that, given th fun with the back brakes, maybe theses need adjusting up a bit?

Anyway, well done, let's have a pic please !

I'm reliably informed this master cylinder fits the Ford vacuum servo. one of my friends has been into MK3 Cortina's for over 30 years and knows them inside out.upside down etc ...

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280938218454?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

its a slightly larger bore in the master cylinder so gives more "shove"

[derekkitcar]

Thanks for the link just sent for one of them and I'll be having another look at the hand brake setup as soon as we have a fine week end. I still need to find out the tracking and camber settings though if anyone knows them can you please let me know

Thanks

Lots

Derek

[Peter]

Derek, best advice is just pop into your local garage/quick fit whatsit and get them to do a laser alignment, spot on and not too dear. You could do it yourself but will it be dead on?