Ben's Eagle SS

[Deleted]

Get friendly with a small, local garage/MOT centre...throw a little bit of work their way as well......they see some reward for the help they give you.

I needed new ball joints fitted to my front arms. These need to be done in a workshop as they need to be pushed out and re-inserted using a hydraulic press. I took the arms and new joints along and got them to do it........from chatting with the bloke at the time and getting him to do the jobs I dont have the facilities to do we've built up a good relationship. Come MOT time he's never too busy and does me a good deal on parts I get to use his ramp on Saturday afternoons...in return he gets my business and if he's short handed I do some spanner work for him...sorted!!

[Gary]

I'm with Pelland on the garage..I use a local one and take all four of our kits there. The guy got used to me and because he knows that should he find a problem and suggests a solution, I will 9 times out of 1 fix it using that method (now I don't seem to get fails just verbal advise)

[Deleted]

Sweet, I will ask the guys down at the beetle parts shop which local they use.
I always like using a nice ice-breaker..... i was recommended to come to you by "whoever"..... they said you're the best in town and said i should bring it to you. Always gives that person a pride smile and you're immediately on their good side.

[Peter]

How things change.
I have 1967 chassis, 116736011, a late 1600 type 2 engine AS88344, (now 1641cc), 1303 gearbox (converted to swing arm as I didn't want to mess about welding brackets on) and parts from at least a dozen other cars including rack and pinion steering, in fact the only original part is the chassis and that has dropped pans. V5c says Eagle, Saloon, Rigid 2 axle, 1600cc. If it says anything about VW or Bettle you have a problem as the time to change has long past and it's SVA time, (or whatever the idiot job creation people call it now).
If the Vin on the V5c and the chassis match just leave it at that and use the reg number you have with them, no one is going to worry about gearbox numbers, and possibly not even engine numbers. If you nave a 1300 engine number you can take it out to 1641cc without any bother and unless someone takes a head off to measure the bore no one will be any wiser and you can insure and run it as a 1300cc.
Oh yeah, always undo the handbrake cables from the front and pull out, you can grease them before they go back in and you would have had to undo the fronts to get the cables off of the shoes anyway, the string is a good idea with anything running in a tube/chassis, we use to use it all the time on Vespa control cables.
Regarding the integration of sites, re Nova and Eagle, The EOC site caters for many different models like the RV, 2+2, etc where as Nova are solely aimed at the "droop snoop/VW" firmly derived from the original design including the SS. Many people are on both sites, as am I, along with a few others forums and we all get on great as is.

[Deleted]

Thank you very much Peter, I am going to try and get engine/gearbox out tonight; string at the ready.

That is if the old man is feeling helpful. ;D Have been busy with a house painting job over last week/finishing this week and he's been up and down country with work meetings/sister's hockey matches, so haven't both been around at same time.

For some reason village post-office mucked up post round and posted my V5c letter back to me sat morning.... even though i'd posted SORN letter off as well and that went off fine....

My misses reckons it was a sign, but its all filled out and i paid for the recorded postage so handed it back in. All fingers/toes crossed.

Very true about the RV,2+2... I do understand they are a separate (but no less important) part from the SS lot. Just thought I'd try and save myself the 5+seconds of switching websites each day to check up on new posts.

[Deleted]

One engine removed on my own, without a rolling jack.

[Deleted]

And gearbox out!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Clocking off at 20 past midnight. Engine and gearbox off in 5 hours (minus dinner)....not bad for a first attempt on me own.

[Deleted]

Question Time

Ok so now I'm ready to flip the pan over and de-rust/paint the bottom. Hoping to de-rust tomorrow night and paint next few days.

While I am waiting for bits to dry I will start to take apart de-rust/paint the front axle/steering/suspension unit. Is there anything you would usually replace....couldnt see any suggestions in manuals.
At the moment I am going to avoid opening brakes as i dont have a long enough bar, can i get the front into cleanable bits without opening brakes?

Similarly doing the same with the gearbox. I need new rubber seals as one has split and oozing oil....me thinks i should've drained the gearbox oil when i did the engine, might put it on the axle stands and do that tomorrow is there anything else to replace?
Also is there a special paint for gearboxes, do they get hot at all/does the magnesium change what paint is needed?

Little checklist for next few weeks;
- Do above
- Clean/paint engine bits - do i need to take it apart?
- Put engine/gearbox/master brake/pedals back onto chassis
- Sort out brake lines
- Sort out brake pad/shoes etc
- Put body back on
future questions praying on my mind- what rubber seals have people used to put in between body/chassis, i removed bits of one that was flat with two end tubes (cross section would look like) o--o
Where would some new stuff? And what sealant have people used to stick the seal to body/seal to chassis? Big question; any good tips to line up the body correctly?

If i can get to this stage by the time i go back to uni i'll be a very happy chappy ;D, might mean some sleepless nights though.
Cheers in advance: Ben

[Deleted]

Sept 13, 2009 23:22:13 GMT @bherron said:

And gearbox out!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Clocking off at 20 past midnight. Engine and gearbox off in 5 hours (minus dinner)....not bad for a first attempt on me own.

:DFive hours

Did you know the record for removing and replacing a Beetle engine is around 3 1/2 minutes?.....and that's with the Beetle body in the way!!!!

.................ooops , didn't see the "Minus dinner" bit...I guess it was a big meal

[Deleted]

Answer Time

Ok so now I'm ready to flip the pan over and de-rust/paint the bottom. Hoping to de-rust tomorrow night and paint next few days.

While I am waiting for bits to dry I will start to take apart de-rust/paint the front axle/steering/suspension unit. Is there anything you would usually replace....couldnt see any suggestions in manuals.
Right where do we start? If your going down the same route as you've done with the pan then you're best splitting the beam into its component parts. You need to assess the ball joints and shocks to ensure they are in useable condition and replacing as necessary. Personally I would change the suspension arm bearings whilst they are accessible as a matter of course...a lot easier than with the beam being on the car. A quick and cheaper alternative is to fit urethene bushes instead of the roller bearings. If you do then remember to coat generously with the appropriate ceramic grease to avoid them squeaking later in use. As you're dealing with 40 year old torsion bars then these might be a bit tired...coupling this with the fact that they may have been derated to account for the lighter body then I would opt for the Red9 coilover suspension kit..expensive but I know a bloke who is selling an unused kit for £140 less than retail.

At the moment I am going to avoid opening brakes as i dont have a long enough bar, can i get the front into cleanable bits without opening brakes?

dismantle and service the front brakes as per your manual. You don't need a big bar for the front brakes...these are easier than the rear. Consider if you want to move to discs up front before buying new brake linings etc.

Similarly doing the same with the gearbox. I need new rubber seals as one has split and oozing oil....me thinks i should've drained the gearbox oil when i did the engine, might put it on the axle stands and do that tomorrow is there anything else to replace?

Check the condition of the gearbox mounting rubbers both at the ront end and at the bellhousing. Replacements are also available in urethese but for road use these transmit more road noise and vibration to the car. The axle gaitors should be replaced and you can now get ones that are bolted together...come in a variety of colours but stay away from the cheap ones...quality matter here. When you refit them align the bolts parrallel to the floor along the rear. Many people fit them with the bolts on the top or bottom of the axle tube...this means that the joins puckers as the axle moves up and down through suspension travel and therefore causes leaks of tranny fluid.

Also is there a special paint for gearboxes, do they get hot at all/does the magnesium change what paint is needed?

no heat created....best bet is to get the wire brush out and paint with primer and satin black aerosol paint. If you want to be really trick then polish and mask the tops of the ribs in the gearbox casting. Satin black and polished alloy looks cool. Clear lacquer protects the finish.

Clean/paint engine bits - do i need to take it apart?

Mask off all inlets and outlets, spray with degreaser and pressure wash off all the crud. Take off all the tinware including fan shroud ad paint as required. Leave crankcase in clean natural alloy silver. Dress up the rest of the engine with engine goodies and dress up parts of your choice...colour coded plug leads, dizzy cap, chrome etc...remember less is more

future questions praying on my mind- what rubber seals have people used to put in between body/chassis, i removed bits of one that was flat with two end tubes (cross section would look like) o--o

Body/chassis seal is availble through VW Heritage and/or other classic VW outlets. Hold in place with small dabs of silicon...just enough in dabs around the mounting surface of the chassis to stop it moving as you lowere the body on the chassis.

Big question; any good tips to line up the body correctly?
Plenty of bodies to help you lift and lower on to the chassis followed by lots of checking and rechecking with a tape measure.

Good luck

[Deleted]

What can I say... Bloody brilliant, thanks so much. All paint/rust is now off the bottom of the pan, paint remover is loads easier than simply grinding but does get messy. Just about to prime it with redoxide and leave tonite to dry.

[Deleted]

You're putting us all to shame Ben

Forgot to mention that if you start splitting the engine etc then organise gaskets in advance.

Also dont fill the tranny with oil until youve finished servicing/painting it etc.......if you go as far as removing the complete rear brake assembly including back-plates and damage or have ropey, oil seals then all you fresh oil will spill out from the end of your axle tubes over your clothes and on to the garage floor..........that tends to aggrevate parents, wives and girlfriends!!

Lastly dont forget to check the condition of the clutch plat and thrust bearing whilst they're accessible....again easier now than when the body is on.

Must be getting old...meant to say this in the previous post

[Deleted]

Haha yes i had seen a post on EuroNova of someone panicking why there was oil flooding out of the brakes. Stupidly I only got one tin of redoxide today, niavely thought it would do, turns out close...but not a finished pan. Learn for next time.

Cool thanks again Chris, I now have a good/realistic checklist to start ticking off.

Another 2 other questions:
I brought some stone/chip-proof spray, says on the can you can paint over it.....does it go in between primer and overcoat......or does it go in between overcoat and waxoil seal?? I always thought it was the later, sort of a final protective coat.
Secondly theres a hole in the bottom of the chassis, below the shifter panel. Im sure there was a rubber plug when i look last, but it was gone when i flipped the pan over......can i get a new one? if so what is it called?

Cheers Ben

[Deleted]

Not too sure about the stone chip....the only stuff I ever used it was the last coat. It stayed slightly tacky and flexible so that if a stone thumped it then it would kinda reseal itself. After a while though the moisture got in behind t and it all peeled off. Might be better if it was painted over but there again if it was painted then it might get brittle and flake off anyway...best asking the customer help team if there's a number on the can.

Whereabouts exactly was the rubber plug?

[Deleted]

Bang under the gear-linkage cover.

[Deleted]

Shouldn't be anything on the underside. There's a couple of rubber grommets to the rear of the inspection plate, between the legs of the chassis forks if that makes sense. Clutch and throttle cables pass through them and they're there to stop chaffing of the cables on the chassis. VW Heritage agian is the place to go for all these little bits'n'bobs. Last time I looked they had exploded diagrams with names and part numbers.

[Deleted]

Voila....one hole

[Deleted]

Well done, Ben. You're putting the rest of us to shame. I'm cracking on with the SS (reliant) so I can get stuck into the Eagle ASAP but I doubt I'll make the same kind of progress. Bet you've got a few skinned knuckles by now and the kind of dirt under the fingernails that you know is just NEVER going to come out ;D

[Deleted]

In all honesty the bottom of the pan was pretty darn perfect after removing the crud/paint, not much rust to remove at all (which i suppose in hindsight means i didnt have to remove it in the first place, but you never know) so i've not lost too much skin. I have a few holes to fill (can just see a few in pic) and then i'm sealing the both sides in one go tomorrow? 15 days to go so need to make every one count.

[Deleted]

You're back late. My daughter starts again on Thursday and a lot of her friends are back already. Last week was Freshers at Dundee!

[Deleted]

3rd years go back 2 weeks after everyone else, I could've gone up for freshers etc but rent doesn't start until 1st October and car is priority over drinking atm.

[Deleted]

That's looks like a drain hole so any condensation/moisture in the tunnel can exit.

You're choice is to leave it open or find a rubber blanking plug to close it up. If you're going to close it up then waxoil up the tunnel to keep the tin-worm at bay.

[Deleted]

Ok cool but if i leave it surely its going to fill up the tunnel on a wet day?

[Deleted]

Sept 15, 2009 18:24:04 GMT @bherron said:

Ok cool but if i leave it surely its going to fill up the tunnel on a wet day?

Not really....there'll be more moisture in the tunnel cavity from consensation, (especially on cold days when the car has perhaps been standing or frosty nights), than any rain water spray entering that hole IMO.....and even if water does enter then it will drain out when stationery...check how the metal is formed to channel water towards the hole and out....but the choice is yours

[Deleted]

[Deleted]

Question:

I'm thinking that for the moment im going to see if i can fit a headlight vertically in the headlight hole, the smallest units i can find are around 4 1/4 inches which is roughly 10cm. Which will just about fit.
However on an Atom i saw the other day there were a pair of small units next to each other.
They're like these but even smaller.
www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/premium_headlight.html
Does anyone know the legalities of using these types of single main/dipped:side units?
Do they have to be mounted together?
Or can I fit the main beam in the headlight hole and the low beam on the front bumper?

[Deleted]

IIRC, the have to be together at a minimum height from the road. I think it is 500mm to the centre of the beam. If either were mounted as low as you suggest you'd have a couple of problems. First, you wouldn't see anything driving on dipped headlights. Secondly, the MOT station wouldn't be able to check the beam pattern on the lights as their equipment won't go that low. Then they might start asking questions & you don't really want that! The benefit of the pop-ups on the SS is that they give you lighting that complies with the regs, particularly in terms of height.

If you ARE looking at alternatives, there is a modern version of the Lotus 7 style kits called Tonique (I think that's how it's spelt) that has a very similar set of headlights. Could be an alternative.

[Gary]

Something like this ?




;D

[Deleted]

Them's the ones. Do you reckon those are 500mm high?
Theres an oval headlight on stafford vehicle components....which might be shorter than the round ones.

www.s-v-c.co.uk/prod/oval_headlight.html

I have emailed them for dimensions. If they are short enough then I think they're the ones.

[Deleted]

Vehicle construction and Use Regs is what you need to read.

I haven't found mine since i moved house but there's a whole chapter on lights, their placement in relation to extremities of the vehicle and their use. I would imagine that anything mounted in the front bumper of the SS could only be used as sidelights or fogs. The lower lights on that car are certainly less than 500mm going by the fact that the wheel is likely to be a 15-17incher plus tyre and, assuming that 500mm is the correct measurement then these lights could only be used for the said purpose.

Besides those pods would look daft on the SS. Have a look at the Alfa (145 0r 155...not sure which...the one with the three small lights let into the bonnet)...check out what the light units look like when they're not attached to the car. there are lot of production cars that have used the small light units...keep your eyes peeled when wandering around the streets of Chelmsford.

Think smoooooooooooooooooth