headlights

[Deleted]

just got an eagle ss need help to wire the headlights up so they move up and down and also to make them switch on does anyone have a wiring diagram.

thanks

[Peter]

Yes, he he he

OK, I'll spill the beans, how do you want them to operate? What motor do you have and how are the lights wired up at the moment, what switches etc.?

This is the standard set up for automatice function, it's on the EOC site technical page.

www.eagleownersclub.org.uk/Technical/HEADLIGHT%20RELAY.jpg

[Deleted]

first of all the motor is a windscreen wiper motor also we have two micro switches one which is broken where would be best to get one of these. the lifting mechanism has got two little black boxes on want to do it the easiest way possible headlights are wired straight out the main wiring harness the only lights we can get to work is front left and rear left side light and indicators. it is also a ford based ss.
if does not make a great deal of sense just helping my daughter to do the car up.

[mell0rman]

I’m going through similar pain with lights and other connections at the moment, the guys on here helped me out and much more knowledgeable than me . My headlights were not working and the cause after much tracing was an old relay. Lifting off its rubber skirt, I found two fuses inside both shot. Replaced these and working head lights again. Worth a check to see if any fuses hidden away that might have gone.

[Deleted]

I'll echo that. Fords of that era used the ceramic type bullet fuses. The end connections were renowned for corrosion/high resistance! (manys the time I dipped my lights and ended up in the dark!) So that would be the first thing to check. As for the micro switch, Maplins is a good source.

[Peter]

O.K. First off is to get all the lights working, a simple test lead with a wire and bulb will do, a meter on 20vdc or get flash and buy a 12v probe, (like a screwdriver with a cable and a crock clip on the other end).

One of the most common causes of no lights or instruments, fuel sender etc. is a bad earth, make a really good, clean earth by drilling the chassis, cleaning the area and putting a bolt and nut with a shake proof washer through it and then bolt all earth ponts to it with another nut and a couple of washers, one each at all major points such as front left of chassis, front right chassis, rear chassis for rear lights etc, you get the idea I'm sure.

Check each fuse end on end with the lights switched on, although a lot of people use the original Ford ceramic fuse box and fuses I found long ago that splashing out on a new fuse box and blade fuses is a really good investment such as these

www.cbsonline.co.uk/fuses-and-fuse-boxes-139-c.asp

The lights should be fused as follows, main left, main right, dip left, dip right, side left and dash, side right and number plate

add to this Accessory [for radio etc] (+15) live [for radio permanent live etc.] (+30) and other fuses commonly used are fuel pump if electrical, indicators and hazards, fog and or reverse lights,

Relays for main beam from light switch to fuse box will take the load off of the switch contacts.

If you wire up as per tech page it does all work wonderfully or you could go for a manual switch [on/off/on] (via a relay of course) and lift and lower without the auto feature.

As can be seen on my SS (VW) I have the fuse box and relay box to the left of the Ford fan unit but of course on the Ford SS you can use the original position as it saves moving wires.
(Please excuse the dust) for the VW fans the hole in the middle of the checker plate is where I insert a cord to lift the front beam into place.



I would recommend using NEW wire and connectors from someone like

www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php

who also do ALL the stuff you will need.


Over 80% of break downs are due to electrical so the better the installation the more reliable it will be. I wired mine from front to back and all new switches, fuse box, relays and connectors.
Maplins do micro switches for lift control, you will need two good ones.

www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=6453

If you are still using the cross bar and wiper motor system as I am then I would recommend you make some bearing plates for the bar to stop it moving about as this will cause your lights to pop up and down when you hit a bump.

[Deleted]

thanks will try these over the next couple of days

[Deleted]

we have now got all of the lights working thank you for the help

[Deleted]

Good News. Well Done

[Peter]

Great, ;D Any thing else just ask.
Peter

[Peter]

just in case someone actually thinks the tube bushes/plates are a good idea, which they are, as they do work, I cut mine from a 1cm thick polyurethane chopping board. cost about £8 from a hardware shop.