Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 29, 2009 10:51:56 GMT
I Have a 1976 cortina based RV, its a 2.0l pinto engine and its paintwork is scratched to buggery plus is teh worst colour burgundy you could imagine. I haev never resprayed a car before and figured i would have a go with teh RV, can anyone give me advice on the best way of doing it. I have very little funds so any cost saving advice woudl be great as well.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 29, 2009 18:53:53 GMT
Hi. There is no reason you shouldn't be able to repaint your RV and at a reasonable cost provided you take care over the prep work. This is where the cost comes in with a professional job. If you have the time and can work in a logical and careful way you should get a pretty good result. Cost will depend on the equipment you can either beg, borrow or, as a last resort, buy. If you have access to a good quality compressor & spray gear, you will cut out a major cost element. Paint, & I would recommend cellulose (if you can get it) shouldn't cost much more than £30-40 quid. If you go 2K or water based the cost rises dramatically, particularly for 2K which needs breathing gear. If you don't have access to any spray gear I'd suggest a self-propelled HVLP system, you can get them on ebay for £30-80 quid. I used an Apollo before buying a compressor and got a pretty good result on my Scimitar SE5a with it.
If your paintwork is in poor condition, you will need to spend a LOT of time in prep. If the scratches are as a result of off roading then there is a real likelihood that there will be a lot of stress cracks in the gel coat of the glass fibre. These need treated properly or they will just come back a few weeks or months after a respray. Treating any damage like this will take a lot of time but it is still achievable.
Best of luck.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 29, 2009 20:56:54 GMT
What he said....the hard work is in the prep and don't forget that ideally you need an etch primer and sealer when blowing over grp.
There is another alternative however...sounds horrendous but the buggy lads are getting some good results. Check out the "How to paint your car cheaply" thread on Volkszone. The guys are using Rustoleum enamel with a matching thinner and using a small brush for the fiddly bits and a small foam roller for the panel work.......the pics look good but its worth reading the whole thread, (Which is huge!!), as there are some pitfalls and some lesons to be learnt.
I don't know much about the product but I know that International Brightside yacht enamel is very good stuff and has a teflon additive that gives a longevity to the paintwork.....and flows well even when brushed............but remember that the final result is down to the quality of the prep and the care/quality of the application. Good luck
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 30, 2009 12:10:14 GMT
Thanks for the advice, regarding teh prep work, what would be a a logical and careful way to work? is it a matter of sand, sand and sand again? I will do some reading before i begin so any pointers to good resources would help, thanks in advance.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 31, 2009 15:19:33 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 31, 2009 15:41:38 GMT
I painted mine in my garage at home by lining the garage with large plastic sheets to save taking things off the shelves(!) It did take a long time preparing (and yes it is a case of sand, sand, fill, sand, sand) but I got the result I wanted in the end and I was pleased for a first attempt. I used 2k paints from a supplier off ebay (standard colours were quite cheap - like black, white, silver etc) and borrowed the breathing kit from a firend. My compressor couldn't cope with the spray kit and the breathing kit so I bought another, used both and then sold the original compressor afterwards. The benefit I can see with the 2k I used was that it didn't need a clear coat and it is really tough - after two years and a few knocks around the garage it still looks new! This was a useful site when I was looking for info www.autobody101.com/Good luck and dont forget the photos. David
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on May 31, 2009 18:11:54 GMT
I painted mine in my garage at home by lining the garage with large plastic sheets to save taking things off the shelves(!) It did take a long time preparing (and yes it is a case of sand, sand, fill, sand, sand) but I got the result I wanted in the end and I was pleased for a first attempt. I used 2k paints from a supplier off ebay (standard colours were quite cheap - like black, white, silver etc) and borrowed the breathing kit from a firend. My compressor couldn't cope with the spray kit and the breathing kit so I bought another, used both and then sold the original compressor afterwards. The benefit I can see with the 2k I used was that it didn't need a clear coat and it is really tough - after two years and a few knocks around the garage it still looks new! This was a useful site when I was looking for info www.autobody101.com/Good luck and dont forget the photos. David Can't stress the need for the proper protective gear when using 2 pack paints. The paint is isocyanate based, (Related to cyanide) and the toxins can be absorbed through the skin as well as the lungs..........full suit time and external air source essential. Otherwise what Dave has said is spot on.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2009 8:57:06 GMT
A handy means of creating a clean environment for spraying and avoiding the tedious work involved in clearing out you garage to avoid everything getting covered in overspray is to invest in a cheap gazebo. I bought a 6 x 3m gazebo off ebay for about £90.00 and built it up in my workshop (I'm fortunate in having a huge workshop). Seal it round the bottom, drive the car in and start work.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Jun 1, 2009 9:47:28 GMT
Best advise anyone has given me when it comes to paint is , prep, prep, prep. what's the difference between a good paint job and a great paint job,? 5 coats of hand rubbed clear. we all use water based paints down here, a bit more money but totally safe and a really good finish, even by hand and roller as said above, topped off with a few coats of urethane clear coat, just needs a LOT more rubbing down.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2009 12:31:11 GMT
Thanks for the advice, will let you know how i get on.
|
|