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Post by Charlie Francis on Dec 28, 2022 18:15:29 GMT
Hi. I'm just starting on the re-build of my Eagle SS, most of my efforts will be spent in a complete re wire and upgrade of the electrical system, including touch screen and something called a PLC (this gets rid of all the complication of relay circuits etc), as well as a new fully electronic dash board and other electrical toys such as a Alternator to batter charger, remote door lock/unlock etc.
What im wondering is does anyone have any basic wiring diagrams for such thing as the windscreen wiper motor, Heater motor, popup headlamps, starter motor and coil, im told i need a resistance wire for the coil ?
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Graham Wood
E.O.C. Chairman
Webmaster
User name = RAM
Posts: 535
Location, Town please: Southport, U.K.
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Post by Graham Wood on Dec 28, 2022 19:42:52 GMT
Hi. I'm just starting on the re-build of my Eagle SS, Hi, You don't say if your SS is rear engine V.W. or front engine ford.
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Post by chrisbailey on Dec 29, 2022 9:56:27 GMT
Hi and welcome.
I am assuming your SS is VW based since you mention an alternator conversion. There are lots of wiring disgrams for VW beetles of every year on the internet. The wiring is dead simple.
As for wiper motors, blower fans and popup headlights, I think everybody chose different parts so the wiring will be different for everybody. My SS has toyota supra popup headlights that I fitted. Before that it had a manual lever. Some people have put a wiper motor on the manual system to make it electric.
My wiper motor is off some ancient car and I cant identify it. It is single speed with autopark.
I think if you can find the part numbers for each of the parts you have, we can probably identify them and find a diagram. In most cases, the parts are old and will just have a simple wiring.
Interested in the full electronic display with PLC system. Is the PLC just going to be used to interface modern push buttons and display with old relay based wiring harness or are you going to program something clever? I have a cheap electronic dash on mine which Im still wiring in.
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Graham Wood
E.O.C. Chairman
Webmaster
User name = RAM
Posts: 535
Location, Town please: Southport, U.K.
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Post by Graham Wood on Dec 29, 2022 17:29:48 GMT
Hi, A host of technicaal information is available to fully paid up members of the Eagle Owners club, including wiper motor for head lamps.
Regarding the wiring, when I built a VW nova ( same dimensions as the Eagle SS,) I used the original wireing harness and all relays, fusebox etc and had no trouble ( no popup headlamps on the Nova ) Battery and voltage regulator behind passengers seat, and 12 volt dynamo, which served me well all the years I had it. Unless you are wanting an off road vehicle with many spot lights, and winch, a dynamo should be ample, but it's your choce what you do.
Good luck with the build, and welcome to the forum.
Regards Graham Wood ( Chairman )
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Post by Charlie Francis on Dec 31, 2022 11:05:29 GMT
hi, its a rear wheel drive Cortina variant I believe, and has a ford Pinto engine in it. I have now found a U tube video of how the Starter motor and ignition col should be wired, complete with a Ballast resister. I am a fully paid up member, but not sure where to find the documents ? The full electronic display for all of the dashboard instruments such as Speed, RPM, Fuel, Oil, Water temp etc. I got from a company called Intellitronix (www.intellitronix.com) "6 Gauge Analog Bargraph Universal Panel BG10002" All off the switches attached to the steering column ie Indicators, lamps and windscreen wiper controls will be wired as inputs to the PLC, all other "switches" will be virtual via a touch screen, and everything will be controlled via the PLC and interface relays, including engaging the starter motor, and powering up the ignition coil. Its going to have an alternator to batter charger, charging two batteries and a permanently wired in twin battery charger, most of the I/O for the PLC will be via Allen Bradley Armour blocks, located under the dash, in the engine compartment, each door and boot. The biggest problem I think I'll have is making the doors able to be electrically opened and closed Ohh yes its also having its own wifi network and remote keyfob's or mobile phone app for "powering up" the system as well as hopefully opening and closing the doors
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Graham Wood
E.O.C. Chairman
Webmaster
User name = RAM
Posts: 535
Location, Town please: Southport, U.K.
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Post by Graham Wood on Dec 31, 2022 15:13:27 GMT
I am a fully paid up member, but not sure where to find the documents ? I have sent you a private email regarding documents.
and click on TECHNICAL Members Only for an explanation.
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Post by Peter on Jan 2, 2023 12:29:20 GMT
Been there, done that. Actuators with 8" stroke (50 Lbs lift at my doors point). take about 8 seconds to open and close, Linec are the best but cost about 5 times the price of Chinese ones but are quieter and more powerful.
Mounting the electric operated latches in the sill with the retainers in the doors simplifies the electronics.
I used a transducer coded to my phone Bluetooth so car only enabled when I was within 3 meters of it. This activated an 80Amp relay for the ignition circuit which enabled the push to start button system, which was not a simple button but a whole relay system needing brake light on to work.
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Graham Wood
E.O.C. Chairman
Webmaster
User name = RAM
Posts: 535
Location, Town please: Southport, U.K.
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Post by Graham Wood on Jan 2, 2023 14:02:23 GMT
Been there, done that. Actuators with 8" stroke (50 Lbs lift at my doors point). take about 8 seconds to open and close, Linec are the best but cost about 5 times the price of Chinese ones but are quieter and more powerful. I used to use Novas system ( on a Nova ) and they used AIR ( pneumatic ) rams on the hydraulic system, and of course, the air rams leaked oil !
I therefore had a refurbishment system where I machined the top of the rams and fitted a solid oil seal, and certainly cheaper than hydraulic ram replacement.
There was a more powerful pump, made by Lucas, but was very noisy.
No idea what the system was on the video - American Sterling ( Nova )
eagleownersclub.org.uk/Sterling3.avi%20(360p).mp4
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Post by Charlie Francis on Jan 2, 2023 17:27:35 GMT
Been there, done that. Actuators with 8" stroke (50 Lbs lift at my doors point). take about 8 seconds to open and close, Linec are the best but cost about 5 times the price of Chinese ones but are quieter and more powerful. Mounting the electric operated latches in the sill with the retainers in the doors simplifies the electronics. I used a transducer coded to my phone Bluetooth so car only enabled when I was within 3 meters of it. This activated an 80Amp relay for the ignition circuit which enabled the push to start button system, which was not a simple button but a whole relay system needing brake light on to work. Ohhh very interesting, how well did the actuator work, i have been worried about over stressing the door and the body at a single point, looks like you made a good sized bracket to spread the load, is the actuator located at roughly the same point as where the gas ram would attach? I'm using a wifi router with a SIM in it to allow me to "connect" to the car remotely via a sonoff intelligent 4 way wifi switch, this switch will also communicate with key fobs over via an RF signal. Once the car is "enabled" via the Sonoff unit a relay closes powering up all the remote I/O as well as the touch screen, in order to actually start the car a password will need to be entered on the touch screen and then press a virtual start button on the screen. I want to try and fit switches to both the hand brake and gearbox to detect when its in neutral and reverse, but looking at where the gear leaver is I think it might be a bit of a rave as there is no bracketry for switches of any kind, I think I'll probably end up using sensors rather than switches to see the gear leaver when its in front of them
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Post by Charlie Francis on Jan 2, 2023 17:29:28 GMT
on another note who's fuel cap did you use, again im looking to do exactly the same thing
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