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Post by soldonkits on Dec 7, 2019 12:59:40 GMT
Hi,
Anyone know the best way to reposition the gearlever in the VW based SS.
I have been reading the official 'comedy' build manual for the SS and it reccomends moving the shift lever rearwards by 5" and shortening the handbrake lever so that the two do not foul on each other. Unfortunately, the relevant diagram is missing.
I would be greatful for any info or links to instructions, measurements or procedures for the job.
I've studdied online manuals for the Nova, Sterling and Cimbria but each of them recomend a different distance, proceedure and method... some of which make no sense at all!?
Basically, I need some sound advice, as this work involves cutting into a structural part of the chassis and I would hate to screw it up by doing the job wrong.
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Post by chrisbailey on Dec 7, 2019 19:18:32 GMT
If i was going to do this again, i would get the body on the car with seats in place. Then get a feel for a suitable position while sitting in the car.
I moved mine back some number of inches (cant remember). I sat in the car a while ago and the gearstick feels too far forwards. My pedal box is in the wrong place too.
The job itself is pretty easy. Just have to make sure you take the bracket that holds the rod bushing with the gear stick when you cut it.
Never tried to change the handbrake position. Id be tempted to remove the cable setup and just use hydraulic, don't think thats legal though.
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Post by Peter on Dec 8, 2019 14:33:47 GMT
Chris is right about the hydro bollocks, not legal. Hand or 'emergency' brake must be independent of the main hydraulic system in case that fails. (I can never understand in movies when someone has a brake line fail/cut and the victim bangs away at the brake pedal until they hit something or go over a cliff, Idiots. Foot off gas, down shift, apply the handbrake and concentrate on steering the dammed thing). Regards moving gear change lever; First determine position of sitting in car with seat(roughly back about 45 degrees) and steering wheel. Feet on pedals, knees slightly bent, that locates your bum (seat base) position on which all else is set to. Slightly bend arms level with chest, that determines position of steering wheel, (even if it's not there yet) Drop hand down towards tunnel, that determines position of gear knob, later hand brake position is set by the gearshift position and also sets a parameter for a center console if you are making one. I came back nearly a foot on mine. but my pedal box is about 3" further back too, the silver upright is original gearshift location.. To move gear shift mark out and cut rectangular section of tunnel to include gear shift and rod support bush inside. First, disconnect at rear via panel in rear of chassis, remove shift rod via panel in front of frame head. Mark out and cut out tunnel to allow gearshift to fit in new position, this may or may not be the same size, you may only need to slide the gearshift back 3" to 5" depending on above. You then weld the gear shift and rod support in new position, careful not the melt the support bush, really should fit a new one anyway, and then the piece you cut out fills in the hole in front of the gearshift. Shorten the link rob by exactly the same amount as the rear movement of the gear shift (i.e. 3" to 5") , remove gear shift and refit rod, (this needs to be done via the panel in the frame head). As far as the handbrake goes there are may different ways of doing this, chopping a couple of inches off of the handle is one so it clears to gear lever. Fitting another type is another way to go as I did using a old school Skoda gear change and a VOLVO handbrake on top of the tunnel with external brake cables, (Mitsubishi colt) in 10mm tubes. I have seen many external types including foot pedal with dash release, electric, (Range Rover Sport for example)and on the side of the tunnel and umbrella type under dash. Go for it but one bit at a time or you will get confused.
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Post by soldonkits on Dec 16, 2019 19:50:26 GMT
Thanks Chris and Peter.
Good to know these posts get read.
I now have a better idea what I'm taking on after reading your comments. When I make a start, (when the cutting disc is more steady in my hand) I'll post some photos as a rough guide to those wanting to do the same.
In the meantime I'm hoping to start another thread on the hazzards of replacing gullwing door hinges and how the nice guys at Eagle cars did little to help, either with the poor design of the original hinges or the change in design of the inner door skins.
More to follow.
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Post by Peter on Dec 18, 2019 9:51:26 GMT
Well, ALL posts get read, daily, so no chance of gong unnoticed..... Look forward to seeing the posts about door hinges as well as your take on gear shift positions. Keep it coming, please.
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Post by soldonkits on Aug 1, 2020 8:04:26 GMT
Well, with the aid of an angle grinder, some very thin cutting discs and a little something to steady my hand, the first cut was made. Knowing the spine is structural doesn't help.
After settling on a 5" move for the shifter, the job was done with surprising ease.
Prior to cutting, a notched section of waste pipe and cable tie through the front inspection hole helped with the gear rod removal, and the battered and worn guide bush fell out with it. A wire fixed to the other end of the rod should help with re-installation. When the section of centre spine came out I couldn't believe how good the paint on it was. For a 33 year old car the paint inside the spine looked better than some new cars.
After the the welding, just a litle tidying up with a flap-disc, now all that's needed is a few coats of chassis black to finish the job. Might be a good time to squirt in some wax-oil too.
The gear change rod was shortened by the same amount as the shifter move (hopefully). Then I tried something a little different to the reccomended 'cut next to the casting and butt weld after shortening' suggestion. As a means of keeping the alignment right, I drilled out the tube socket in the casting so that the shortened tube could be re-fitted as originally done. This seemed to work fine and will keep the weld away from the guide bush when reinstalled.
Time to take a hacksaw to the handbrake next to finish the job. This time the opperation looks more simple.
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Post by Peter on Aug 1, 2020 11:15:46 GMT
Certainly it looks like real progress is being made. I agree a little Waxoil will be a good idea, never too much detail at this stage, getting the chassis and running gear nice, neat and looking good as well as working properly, is important as it's not something you can easily 'pop back to' and do again later, as I am finding out, due to time deterioration rather that original work.
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