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Post by chrisbailey on May 27, 2020 17:38:20 GMT
Moving on to something else now.
The next job on my list is to weld up the section i cut out to make the pedal box fit.
I intend on welding some threaded rod m10 to two flat bars 4mm thick and 40mm wide. These will then be welded to the floor pan, giving 4 fixings to mount the pedal box to.
The reason for this is I cant put bolts down through the floor as there are reinforcement bars welded to the underside of the pan which line up with the pedal box bolt holes.
Im not too worried about this bit since i can do most of the welding on a bench.
Im not sure how to tackle the cutout of the nepoleans hat. The nap hat looks like a conventional hat on the drivers side now.
The original shape of it meant it was triangulated and strong. My thoughts are I could just weld a flat bar across the coutout, closing the open section up. This adds nothing to reinforce or triangulate and only really serves as a stop to water and crap getting into the hat.
I could do the above and also add a right angle frame around the pedal box. This adds some reinforcement but I'm not sure how effective that is since it's not triangulated. it also adds another problem as the box section I have to hand would just about fit but gets pretty close to the brake master cylinder and throttle linkage so would likely need notching.
How strong do you think the nap hat with a cut out like mine? Would it need reinforcing? Im wondering if it needs doing, since i already have reinforcement box section welded in beneath. Might have to scroll up forvthe pictures.
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Post by Peter on May 29, 2020 12:07:43 GMT
I, myself, just me, alone. solo. Would make a 'J' tube in box and take it from the center of the tunnel across the pedals and down to the outer frame, then panel in the cabin side with a plate and mount the pedal box to it duplicating the cut-outs so it's double thick then bolt the cylinders to that and the floor .
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Post by chrisbailey on May 29, 2020 14:44:57 GMT
Nice picture, I like that idea. I think I would have to use a right angle rather than a curve since I cant bend box section. The plate is a good idea. Think Im going to need some good drill bits. Instead of a full plate, I could use some flat bar across the top and bottom. Means the cylinders would bolt in but I wouldnt have to cut the larger holes.
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Post by Peter on May 31, 2020 11:04:22 GMT
You could fabricate the bar in four sections and as for the holes, an 8mm bit will do the bolts and a hole/tank cutter for the big ones
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Post by chrisbailey on May 31, 2020 17:00:52 GMT
I welded up the floor mounts. My first proper go at welding, I dint think it went too bad. I also attempted closing up the hat. Wasn't easy due to lack of access. I think it will look ok when its ground down.
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Post by chrisbailey on Jun 13, 2020 16:09:28 GMT
Ive now finished welding the nap hat. I had problems with burn through on the right side. The steel was pretty rotten so I cut it out and welded new sheet in. Took me a while to get the shape right and as I'm new to welding I decided to plug weld. Ive just painted it up and rebuilt the pedal box. Next job is to bolt the pedal box in and plumb the brakes in. Hopefully get the car moving under its own power again. It's only been 13 years.
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Graham Wood
E.O.C. Chairman
Webmaster
User name = RAM
Posts: 531
Location, Town please: Southport, U.K.
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Post by Graham Wood on Jun 14, 2020 0:12:12 GMT
Your pictures are far too large. Actual sizes are 4600 x 3400 pixels. That's more than 4 times bigger than my screen. Resize to 800 / 1000 wide, and reload to server to save bandwidth and slow loading on screen.
Hope you have spring washers under those nuts and not just plain washers ?. A thread is an inclined plane, wrapped round a cylinder, and we all know what happens on an inclined plane.
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Post by Peter on Jun 14, 2020 11:02:49 GMT
Your pictures are far too large. Actual sizes are 4600 x 3400 pixels. That's more than 4 times bigger than my screen. Resize to 800 / 1000 wide, and reload to server to save bandwidth and slow loading on screen. Hope you have spring washers under those nuts and not just plain washers ?. A thread is an inclined plane, wrapped round a cylinder, and we all know what happens on an inclined plane.Snowboarding? May I suggest you download a copy of Paintshop Pro 5, it is a less complicated picture editing program without all the modern whistles a bells I hate, and it's free. In the case of those images, it's easy to select, 'IMAGE'- RESIZE' and select from CM or Inches or Pixel, resize 'maintain ratio' and 'SAVE' also rotate, Left or Right free or 90degreees is that simple. Also the crop tool is very simple too. For example;
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Post by chrisbailey on Jun 14, 2020 14:24:00 GMT
Almost had the hydraulic lines done today. There is not much room around the master cylinders. So little i cross threaded the union into the clutch master, very annoyed. Ive ordered some new unions, i tapped the cylinder and i think it will be ok. I also ordered a new clutch master cylinder, a 0.813 sized one rather than the 0.625 that i have. I think that was a bit small anyway.
Hopefully next weekend I'll have the hydraulics working.
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Post by chrisbailey on Jun 28, 2020 15:25:39 GMT
Today has been a total misery. The hydraulics have leaked at the master cylinders and ripped all the paint of the chassis. I had one spare cylinder as i suspected one of the fitted ones was bad. Turns out both brake cylinder were ruined. I pulled them off, checked inside and they are both scored. I have no idea how since they have never been used. Really disapointed as these were girling. Ive got another cylinder on order, thats all three replaced now. I also managed to smash my rear lights in the process of moving the car back in the garage. Oh and it decided to piss it down while i had the wheels off on the driveway, so now the bare interior is soaked. Feels like this car is never going to be finished, and Im loosing enthusiasm rapidly.
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Post by chrisbailey on Jul 10, 2020 16:39:14 GMT
I have been having some trouble with the front brakes. I have now changed all of the master cylinders, and Ive managed to bleed the clutch and rear brakes. Clutch is firm and I can see it working. The rear brakes are rock solid. The front brakes however allow the pedal bias bar to travel quite a bit before they go firm.
My guess was it must be air, so I used the Eezibleed system. The front brakes are a bit firmer but still not rock solid like the rears are. The brakes are all standard beetle units. I'm using 0.7 cubic inch? Master cylinders front and rear. Im now wondering if the rear brakes are too hard? This may be making the front feel weak. If that makes any sense.
Im pretty sure the cylinders are all leak free now so Ill probably repaint the floor pan and pedal box now.
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Post by biggles1 on Jul 10, 2020 18:38:32 GMT
Sometimes the enthusiasm just ebbs away, but you will get another surge. Crack on, you're doing a great job. Thanks for posting.
John
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Post by chrisbailey on Jul 11, 2020 20:40:29 GMT
I thought I would leave the paint until i have tested the brakes out. Just incase they have to come apart again.
I put all the pedals in, the accelerator on and the wiring back on. Here is a video of the first drive in atleast 10 years. Front brakes are still soft but I think its just more bleeding.
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Post by biggles1 on Jul 11, 2020 23:43:50 GMT
Fantastic! That's going to be great.
John
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Post by Peter on Jul 15, 2020 11:50:42 GMT
Sounds like an average week in the life of a kit car restorer. press on Chris, it's always going to be three forward and two back when its not two forward and three back. You are making good progress, I still haven't sorted my hydraulic out in 5 years!
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Post by chrisbailey on Apr 5, 2021 21:08:08 GMT
Almost a year ago since an update. Havent done much more with the cold weather. I have replaced the silly boy racer steering wheel with a grant deep dish i got cheap on ebay. Ive also got the drivers seat mounted to the floor now. Going to work out how to mount the seat harnesses next, possibly with a small roll hoop.
Oh and hopefully this week will have the front discs and bearings changed. I have to also sort out the steering box and steering stops. If i get all of that done by sunday I will be very happy.
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Post by Peter on Apr 9, 2021 9:52:57 GMT
You get all that done by Sunday we will ALL be happy, and a little suprised. Good progress and going in the righht direction.
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Post by chrisbailey on Apr 19, 2021 8:30:47 GMT
The front discs and bearings have now been replaced. Messy job.
I have also changed the gearbox oil. When the car drove about 15 years ago, the gearbox whined, I had hoped this was due to a low gearbox oil level as one of the rear hub seals had gone and both boot gone too. I noticed quite a bit of metal on the drain plug magnet though, so may need a rebuild or new gearbox in the near future.
Car rolls around lovely now though.
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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 5, 2021 16:28:28 GMT
Its been absolutely ages since I did anything on the car. Many house projects on the go. I have been interested in 3D printers for a while now and I made the decision to purchase one last month, I managed to pick up a nice Ender 3 V2 for £220 from Amazon. I've been printing a few things that are handy to have, lots of stuff on thingyverse. I am now looking at using 3D prints for some of the components inside the car, my first project being a switch panel. This is it so far. I was going for a missile style switch shroud, it has two holes for lamps. Aiming to print it in the next few days, it will take quite a while (10 or so hours). Its been designed with tinkercad (tinkercad.com) which is free and easy to use. My next project (assuming this one works OK) will be a shroud for the dash binnacle.
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Post by Peter on Aug 6, 2021 11:06:27 GMT
Nice work, hope it all pans out OK. never got into CAD and 3D but I could have used it a dozen times.
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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 7, 2021 11:55:27 GMT
It took a while but looks like it will do the job.
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Post by chrisbailey on Jun 9, 2022 20:19:21 GMT
I dont suppose original SS side windows are available anymore. I managed to smash one of mine because I put it in a careless place when storing it.
Anybody had new side windows made? Im tempted to put plastic in there now or just leave them without glass.
Ugh!
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Post by Peter on Jun 10, 2022 10:29:38 GMT
I dont suppose original SS side windows are available any-more. I managed to smash one of mine because I put it in a careless place when storing it. Anybody had new side windows made? Im tempted to put plastic in there now or just leave them without glass. Ugh! Doesn't the printer stink the place out? my missus would go mad at that, I keep forgetting who it is but there is a forum member with a pair of MkII/III side windows spare. Got the same problem but I went to a glazier and for about 50 quid they will cut, drill and toughen a copy of the good one I have, The only problem I have is 'grommets', can't seem to get them anywhere, can you 'print' some in rubber? I tried 4mm poly carbon windows but still too flexible and prone to scratching. They 'should' be marked as well. I even made a 'custom' case to take a pair but the postage cost now is stupid expensive plus duty admin and tax doubles the cost, F*** Brexit. Like the switch panel too, looks very OEM, my effort was using NASA guards made by the same guy who makes them for NASA actually,
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Post by chrisbailey on Jun 10, 2022 11:25:51 GMT
The printer only smells if you print with ABS plastic. I use PLA and PETG plastics and they do not smell at all. The only annoying thing about the printer is the fan noise.
TPU is a kind of flexible plastic that can be printed. Same type of plastic gel phone cases are made of. If you have the dimesions of the grommets you want, I could print them and post them to you. I need to wait for a printer part to arrive before I can print them though.
I may be contacting glass manufacturers soon to quote to copy the glass I have in the other door. Unless a spare side window is going still?
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Post by Peter on Jun 11, 2022 10:18:58 GMT
1 set of two small and one large per window. Kinda rough, new trackball gets a bit of getting used to,
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Post by titch on Jun 26, 2022 19:46:31 GMT
If the glass is flat Chris, with or without holes, you will get a new one made from your otherside as a template, check they aren't 'handed'. Any decent glass shop will get a piece toughened for you yes. Titch
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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 29, 2022 20:26:47 GMT
Been quiet on here lately. I managed to get both seats mounted last week and repaired a patch on the pasenger side floor pan. Im going to buy an empi engine cage, the type used on buggys bajas. This is because the rear on my SS was so bad I chopped the whole pannel out. Im going more buggy eagle SS hybrid now. Also going to try and have a roll hoop made up to go behind the seats, for the harnesses to hang off.
I have got some Fiat coupe rear lights too, so will be 3d printing some custom mounts for those to attach to the engine cage.
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Post by Peter on Aug 30, 2022 12:09:21 GMT
Even more progress Chris, ever onwards and one day you may get it done, (finished is not a word I use anymore relative to kit cars)
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Graham Wood
E.O.C. Chairman
Webmaster
User name = RAM
Posts: 531
Location, Town please: Southport, U.K.
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Post by Graham Wood on Aug 30, 2022 12:51:48 GMT
Even more progress Chris, ever onwards and one day you may get it done, (finished is not a word I use anymore relative to kit cars) Good to hear you're at least working on the SS. Mine still isn't finished ( tiny items ) after 30 years, although was road worthy ( no issues when I drove it into the garage in 1998 and unused since then - 24 years ago ) but trying to revitalise it - very slowly. but i have a recent last 4 year excuse - -- mentioned elsewhere. Keep woking on it-- you have 9 to 10 months to get it to the next show, and for us to put a face to a name.
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Post by chrisbailey on Sept 12, 2022 17:18:59 GMT
I managed to get a second hand engine cage on ebay. They are out of stock everywhere and imported from the states. I just need to make some mounts for it as the seller didnt have the originals. That will probly be my next project.
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