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Post by Peter on Jul 3, 2019 12:20:17 GMT
Some of the ideas tried but may be revisited once it's all running as is; Bluetooth key off of phone, no phone, no ignition, doors, nuffin'. turn over until start relay, currently two second burst from button control box/relay. Electric mirrors. Electric handbrake. 4" monitors for blind spot cameras, currency using video input to radio via a 'L-off-R' switch.
BUT,,,, get it running and stable first. play later.
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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 29, 2019 8:50:04 GMT
Hi, I have got most of the wiring together for the engine. Ive still to start lighting and charging system.
I decided to try and get the engine running smoothly since i could start it on the key.
I had new points, leads and plugs in and a new battery. Dumped some fuel in and it ran, but like a dog. I rebuilt the carb (30 pict 2, crap) and tried to time the engine with a light. Still runs like crap. I later did a compression test. I can post my results later but in summary i have cylinder 3 on 85 psi when i put oil in the cylinder. The others look acceptable 110 to 120psi.
I was hoping to avoid a rebuild. The engine is a 1300 sp (F code) .
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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 29, 2019 8:54:39 GMT
Im going to continue with the wiring and other chassis bits before i strip the engine. I think that will be a winter project.
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Post by Peter on Sept 1, 2019 11:18:43 GMT
Im going to continue with the wiring and other chassis bits before i strip the engine. I think that will be a winter project. Good move, always a time gobbler all those bits and bobs.
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Post by chrisbailey on Nov 17, 2019 20:30:26 GMT
So i couldnt resist the urge and decided to pull the heads off the engine and see what was wrong. The valve guides had excessive play, to the point one of the exhaust valves was getting clogged up and sticking. A local machine shop sawpped the guides for me and cut new valves in. I picked a weekend to refit. Realised the collets were excessively worn too and wasted my weekend. In the end i got the engine back together over a few weekends. I have a list of things to do properly when i finally get round to doing a full rebuild on it. The sump studs were a complete bugger and they are at the top of the list. I fired the engine up and it seems to run better, actually idling this time. I had perfomed a compression test before hand and the results were not fantastic, i still have one cylinder low while the others are around 100psi. Hopefully have the engine running half decent and run it for a short time until the full rebuild. Hoping the sort the brakes next.
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Post by Peter on Nov 19, 2019 12:55:14 GMT
It was never going to be a "couple of weekends" was it. I am sure the engine will be OK with correct valve clearances etc. I just did my BMW, (new water pump and belts),set it up by ear and I was then able to drive it to my 'shed' where I did a strobe timing, "colortune" on the mix and set the MAF, goes like a rocket now but better ease off as it is a 33 year old car. I take it fluid leak test was done on the valve/seat prior to fitting the heads? If so, that's one factor you can rule out and if the ring gaps are good you should have good, equal compression on all 4. So down to carbs and timing where I would recommend one of the 19 quid contact-less units on eBay, great little device, no points and fit and forget timing, same a Petronix but 1/4 the price. I have had to strip and de-gunge my carbs so many times as the petrol evaporates and leave gooey crap in the jets and pump nozzles. I had to cut the spring seats on my 044 heads for double springs but was easy with a hole cutter and a mandrill down the valve guide. but as I have said, the only thing on my engine that is standard is the dizzy drive. Great work so far and look forward to reading you are up and running, at least engine wise.
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Post by chrisbailey on Dec 8, 2019 16:02:35 GMT
Managed to get into the garage today and play with the car. Only had to put the generator belt back on and refit a rocker cover that was leaking oil. After a few cranks, the engine came to life and really didnt need much adjusting to get it idling. vgy.me/u/ErZn89
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Post by Peter on Dec 9, 2019 12:22:28 GMT
Great news Chris, soon be flying down the road again.
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Post by chrisbailey on Jan 18, 2020 16:43:52 GMT
I decided to upgrade to an alternator. Mainly because it keeps the wiring harness simple but also so i can put a half decent stereo in the car without flatting the battery. Conversion kit came from machine7. Hardest part was putting the pulley and fan on because of the bloody wood-ruff keys! I also got the tools i need to pump grease into the front beam. Sadly the nipples don't go into the beam easily, I think the threads are full of powder coating and generally crap. I also cant get the grease gun onto the nipples as there is no clearance. I am in the process of lifting the body for a second time. I refuse to remove the front beam again and i need to adjust the body placement as its too far one side. I also need to move the pedal box out, through the napoleon hat so body got to come off anyway. Feel like im getting there slowly.
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Post by Peter on Jan 19, 2020 13:29:16 GMT
At last, an alternator! You are sure to see a big difference and certainly enough power for that stereo.
Progress is progress and even a couple of steps back is really a way forward.
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Post by chrisbailey on Jan 19, 2020 14:58:31 GMT
I managed to get the body lifted today. I used a scissor jack and put it between the main chassis tunnel and the steel bar going across the body tub for the dash. Lifted pretty easily. This gamlve me room to cut the threads for the grease nipples and get the grease gun in. I also removed the pedal box as thats going to be moved forwards about a foot. think my next job will be cutting into the napoleon hat and welding a new plate in.
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Post by chrisbailey on Jan 25, 2020 17:09:17 GMT
Today i got the alternator wired in, its now charging the battery. I also got a warning light for the alternator and oil light. All working. I also cut into the napoleons hat to move the pedal box further out. The pedals are in a much better place now, thinkbive gained about 6 inches. I can sit in the car and operate the pedals, gear stick and handbrake now. I need to get a smaller steering wheel. Think i will weld sone box section in to reinforce the footwell. The napoleon hat was pretty solid. My chassis has got box section all underneath too.
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Post by Peter on Jan 26, 2020 14:36:00 GMT
So far, so good. I keep forgetting my set up using similar pedals is LEFT hand drive so the throttle pedal is next to the tunnel and therefore the high part of the Napoleon's hat which is where your clutch will be and I don't need to cut the chassis, it just about pops over it.. Have you considered F1 style pedals where they are higher with a heel rest. Picture of my nephew, Paul Oz's statue of Senna which shows classic F1 driving position, .
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Post by chrisbailey on Jan 27, 2020 17:55:20 GMT
Ill give that seating position a go. My biggest problem right now is my seat does not recline and its almost touching the roof. If I lean it back the gear lever is almost out of reach. Maybe a combination of leaning it back and sliding it forwards with the pedals lifted might work. I have kind of resigned myself to accepting this car won't be very comfortable to drive, it will look good from the outside though.
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Post by Peter on Jan 28, 2020 10:42:43 GMT
Actually if you get the driving position right they can be very comfy, just don't expect to see much other than straight ahead or left/right. My daughter actually fell asleep coming back from VW jam in 1996.
Reclining seats are almost a must in a Nova/SS but a fixed seat tilted back with spacers between seat and runners can work well if legs are high as in 'Senna' so the thighs are not having the blood cut off by the seat front.
The BEST pedal set-up are the pendulum type with rear facing (over feet) cylinders. €€€€
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Post by chrisbailey on Feb 2, 2020 17:14:33 GMT
After playing around with the seating position i have concluded, the pedal box has to be mounted to the floor. The f1 seating postion brings the knees up to far and puts the steering wheel out through the wind screen. I can however lean the seat back a bit and this should work with a deep dish steering wheel.
Ill get the pedals mounted next and look for a welder to put a box structure in.
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Post by Peter on Feb 3, 2020 10:54:59 GMT
If you need to pull the steering wheel back a couple of inches why not consider a QR kit? not too expensive, makes entrance/exit a doddle and if parked up n a dodgy area can be left hidden. IF you have the right position the steering wheel would be in your lap rather over the thighs. But each unto their own, took me ages to get it right but pedal position is key as it all starts from there.
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Post by chrisbailey on Mar 15, 2020 19:51:00 GMT
Been working on the wiring loom. I have the popup headlights wired in and working. I also started the indicators. Waiting on some bits to be delivered. hopefully in the next few weeks all wiring will be complete.
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Post by Peter on Mar 16, 2020 12:27:46 GMT
Steaming along compared to some, including mine but I currently have an excuse. two cars, one shed! Steering wheel, Hmm, I tried all sizes and found my 10" Mountney too small, took a lot of effort even on the move and the 14" too big, sitting on my nuts so 13" (33cm) feels good and small enough to fit., also there is a greater selection of 24 quid ones on eBay etc. Shoving the pedals forwards instead of everything else back is a good move. Look forward to seeing next nail biting episode. Buying a welder used to be a complex issue but with advances in technology it's is actually easy. I researched for days which one to buy and comparing prices and delivery time, which boiled it down to within Spain and delivery included by courier. and ended up with a gas/gas-less model for just under a hundred pounds and a roll of 0.8mm fluxed wire 17€ Buying a bigger one makes it harder on thin stuff so up to 3mm all that is needed is a 100A model using 4 to 5V with 3.5 feed. Under 2mm with either bigger machine or a small stick is horrible and I ended up using a 3mm electrode at minimum setting and still got holes, 1.5mm just blew a hole straight away as there wssn't enough metal being laid down into the melt pool.
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Post by chrisbailey on Apr 5, 2020 17:31:51 GMT
Spent a long few days working on finishing the electrics. I made the mistake of not strapping cables in place as i went, spent almost an entire day untangling, routing and strapping.
Still needs some tidying around the relays, mostly done though. I still have to wire the reverse lights, brake lights and wiper motor. Very close now though.
I also have all the bits to finish the brakes. Hopefully have those jobs done over easter.
Last week i got my front calipers rebuilt, had to use a grease gun to pop the pistons out. Spent a long time cleaning out grease.
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Post by Peter on Apr 6, 2020 12:38:31 GMT
Great progress, at least got those pesky calipers sorted.
When running wires for a loom I have loose cable ties every so along the loom so it keeps it together. especially at junctions.
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Post by chrisbailey on Apr 6, 2020 17:35:09 GMT
When I started out, I thought the wiring loom would be really simple with only a handful of wires. Its actually turned out quite complicated with many relay circuits.
So far no clever electronics, but i might need some for the door motors and a stereo headunit.
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Post by Peter on Apr 7, 2020 13:43:32 GMT
When I started out, I thought the wiring loom would be really simple with only a handful of wires. Its actually turned out quite complicated with many relay circuits. So far no clever electronics, but i might need some for the door motors and a stereo head unit. Wiring is never simple, especially if building extras in. Your stereo head unit should just be standard ISO plugs which are very simple even when using light dimmer, phone mute, electric antenna and amps. most people (unlike me) just need +15, +30, and ground with the blue antenna sometimes. Mine 7" 2DIN uses ALL the wires, quite busy behind with three cameras, Amps using all RCA circuits and GPS. "Complicated relays". or do you refer to the headlight logic circuits? With the heaviest load being both headlight main beams, 2x60=120W or 10Amps no need for any others unless used to switch polarity or drive circuits in a logic setup, (AND, NAND, OR, NOR, etc) Anyway, onwards and sidewards.
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Post by chrisbailey on Apr 19, 2020 16:41:41 GMT
Only a little progress made since the lockdown. I decided to tackle the brakes and pedalbox. I put a flexi line on the clutch slave cylinder, always bugged me i didnt do it the first time. Also plumbed in a hydraulic brake light switch. I then tried to drill the holes to mount the pedalbox, sadly the holes line uo with the edge of reinforcement bars welded to the underneath of the chassis. I think im going to weld bolts onto the floor pan, upside down. This would let me mount the pedalbox without having to go through the chassis. Managed to get the front brakes back on, regreased the bearings. Discs are a bit pitted and i saw fillings in one of the bearings so I think these will get replaced come MOT time.
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Post by chrisbailey on May 17, 2020 19:07:26 GMT
I am now extremely close to finishing the wiring loom. The last item is the windscreen wiper. The motor is abit rubbish, its a single speed motor and a bit worn out. At first it was sticking and shorting out. After burning my finger tip when holding the feed wires to the battery, I decided to strip the motor and free it up. I dont expect the motor to last long, but its working for now.
I ordered a wash wipe relay for a land rover. Followed the wiring diagram from the tvr forum. It works! It gives 5 second intermittent and 4 wipes after running the washer pump.
I now need to figure out how to wire the single speed in. The way the wash wipe relay is wired, it does not ground the park wire. It also does not feed a constant 12v. The negative is always grounded too.
To get the single speed working, I need a constant 12v on the positive post of the motor. Then the park wire is always grounded, the negative post is then only grounded when the wipers are signalled on.
I think I will have to devise something with two post relays.
Once Ive sorted this out, Ill spiral wrap the whole loom and post some photos. Im quite proud of it so far.
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Post by chrisbailey on May 18, 2020 9:47:36 GMT
So, the intermittent kind of works. it does not self park anymore though. I think this is because the motor isnt really designed to go with this relay. Modern motors have a seperate park switch circuit, usually resulting in 5 or more motor connections.
My motor has three connections, the switch is internal and you just keep the park wire grounded.
I am tempted to change the wiper motor to something newer. The only problem I see is newer motors have a knurled bevelled post to which the linkage hooks up to. My linkage has a kind of slot, requiring the post to have a slot too. I like the idea of knurling, as it gives you a chance to adjust the park location. The slot doesnt allow that. I suppose the easiest way is taking two sides of the post off with a file.
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Post by Peter on May 18, 2020 11:18:50 GMT
I used a standard wiper motor with a park switch.
is your wiper arm fitted to the spindle with splines to adjust park position?
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Post by chrisbailey on May 18, 2020 11:45:38 GMT
Yes, the wiper arms are on a knurled spindle. Its the linkbfrom the motor to the linkage assembly that is knurled on the modern motors but slotted on mine.
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Post by chrisbailey on May 26, 2020 8:30:00 GMT
I decided to use the old wiper motor in the end, just with a basic switch that gives me single speed or nothing. I wont be taking the car out in the wet, also aiming to get the car on the road as soon as possible so no unecessary jobs. This means the wiring loom is complete and functional. It now only needs strapping up with P clips and the odd bit of wire wrap. Excuse the messy pictures. The last picture shows unwrapped wires across the dash, these will all be wrapped once I get a position for the switches and lamps.
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Post by chrisbailey on May 26, 2020 8:38:14 GMT
One thing to add, I had trouble with engine run on. The engine would start up and run perfectly fine but would not shut off. This was traced down to the alternator. Turns out the exciter wire needs a diode in it otherwise it can supply enough power backwards through the warning lamp to power relays. The relay for the coil was being energised whenever the alternator was charging.
Just in case that gets anybody else .
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