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Post by neilsmith on Feb 21, 2016 13:43:36 GMT
I was considering altering the shape of this to give it a gradual curve like in this picture. What does this area look like on your car Peter?  |
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Post by Peter on Feb 21, 2016 17:16:47 GMT
If that's the underside of the roof area of the door then pretty much like that. I have outlined the shape of the rear area of mine, the front is much the same.   |
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Post by Peter on Feb 24, 2016 16:54:53 GMT
Just checked and I was right about the seal.  |
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Post by neilsmith on Feb 27, 2016 13:11:12 GMT
I have removed the door catches from the sills and made up a threaded plate to fit underneath the sills. This replaces the nuts and washers under the sill and allows the door catches to be adjusted without holding the nuts underneath to stop them rotating when adjusting the catch. I now have to refit and adjust the catches. I think it is difficult to get the doors fitting perfectly though.    |
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Post by Peter on Feb 27, 2016 15:05:35 GMT
Good idea with the movable striker plate, well done. Fitted properly? No chance. The 'C' section door seals make a huge difference so don't try adjusting anything until you have those fitted. Close is about as good as it gets without changing the strut type to powered as the gas rams kick the bottom of the doors out at the rear, even with actuators pulling the door shut mine are still far from a perfect shut line, but nearer. At the moment I have VW Golf MkII door latches as regs' here demand the two click closing and I will have stainless steel sill plates with the strikers in, where you have the catch I have a hole with a steel 'cup' in so the catch can sit lower. I have since found that even without the catch the door is almost impossible to open against the actuator so I needn't have bothered it seems but I will carry on as I have it all wired up with solenoids to 'pop' the latches at the same time the actuators start. The Bonnet catches are not the best method but simple and they work. Washers (Stainless) between the hinge and the roof are the only adjustments and I have 3 under each hinge, 4 under the front right one. To reduce bumps in the headlining I have used flat headed coach bolts with nylok nut on the hinge (top) side but needed to clear the underside of the roof for the nuts, a better method would be the standard bolted downwards into mate rivnuts, in the roof from underneath, as in reversed or 8mme 'T' wood nuts, those with the flange and four spikes on glued/bonded in, in fact On second thoughts I think I will change my setup to those.. Or. do you own thing. tinyurl.com/jk66qy7 |
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Post by neilsmith on Mar 2, 2016 19:01:26 GMT
Yes, I have got washers under the hinges like you mention. There is about 3 washers on the front hinges and about 2 on the rear, but I may need to add some here and there to get the doors fitting better. Also the nearside door is a little too far forward and I may have to do some filling out of the holes in the roof to improve the fit.
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Post by neilsmith on Mar 2, 2016 19:19:20 GMT
When carrying out repairs to the doors back in the summer I also had to fibre glass the inner and outer door mouldings together at the lip around the window that accepts the weather seal. I had to build it up with fibre glass matting and resin and I refitted each door to the car before the resin had set fully to try to retain the shape of each door. You can see from the photo that there is no gaps between the inner and outer mouldings now, but it did have a gap of about 10mm. I am not sure if all 'Eagle kits' left the factory like his, but the build manual says that the builder will have to apply a little filler around the doors where the outer door moulding meets the inner near the door aperture seal.   |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2016 19:43:31 GMT
some great ideas here.
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Post by Peter on Mar 3, 2016 11:48:31 GMT
Yes, I have got washers under the hinges like you mention. There is about 3 washers on the front hinges and about 2 on the rear, but I may need to add some here and there to get the doors fitting better. Also the nearside door is a little too far forward and I may have to do some filling out of the holes in the roof to improve the fit. I had to open my roof holes a bit to allow adjustment but only a couple of mm. |
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Post by neilsmith on Mar 9, 2016 19:11:43 GMT
Can you remember where you got the door seals from in the picture Peter? Was it from ebay? Do they call them 'C' shaped door seals? do you have the sellers name? I can't seem to find any.
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Post by Peter on Mar 10, 2016 8:59:43 GMT
Click on the Eagle Owner's site link at the top of the forum and then useful links. For trim try "car builder solutions" first, then Woolies, Ebay, This is CBS www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/leaf-rubber-door-aperture-seal also Ebay number 281933106328 and Woolies www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1285-door-seal.aspxYou will need enough for both doors and both side windows. One thing I hope you have it the 6mm & 8mm i.d. grommets in the side windows, it's a total pig trying to buy grommets for glass. Also on the factory finish cars there is an edge trim in either chrome or black on the upper part of the wheel arches, (I have filled and rounded mine) and then a matching centre line around the front and down the sides. Rear window seal is a standard rubber and locking strip, (black or chrome). |
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Post by neilsmith on Mar 13, 2016 19:07:05 GMT
That's very helpful thankyou. I have been in the process of altering the seal lip on the car this weekend and I will add some photos in a few days.
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Post by neilsmith on Apr 1, 2016 17:56:45 GMT
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Post by neilsmith on Apr 1, 2016 18:04:48 GMT
After sanding down and shaping the fibre glass repair I fitted a new door seal and now seem to have less leaks inside the car. It also looks a lot neater. I will be changing the door seals for some 'c' shaped rubber seals as I think this will help the door fit better.   |
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Post by neilsmith on Apr 14, 2016 19:26:53 GMT
This is how the tops of The doors are looking at the moment with the stainless hinges in place and the fibre glass repaired. I had to add and remove washers to get the door fit as good as I could. There is still a little filler work needed before I cover the repair with a gel coat. I think that the later eagle doors fitted better than earlier models. Attachment Deleted |
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Post by neilsmith on Apr 24, 2016 17:41:57 GMT
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Post by neilsmith on Apr 24, 2016 17:56:02 GMT
I have found that the tank has quite a large gap between the body at the rear of the tank, although it looks quite horizontally level, but some altering may be needed. I will have to make some rubber or foam blocks to fit above the tank to prevent it moving about. Also the tank straps that I have made from aluminium will need to be made a little shorter.
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Post by neilsmith on May 30, 2016 18:35:55 GMT
Last year I had some stainless steel hinge plates made up for the gull wing doors. I had to make up new fibre glass panels for the tops of the doors. Over the last couple of weeks I Have been blending in the fibre glass repair with polyester filler on the top of the passenger door. I have now coated the repair with a white gel coat and the outside of the door is now just about ready for respraying. This I will have done at a later date. There is still some work to do where the inner and outer mouldings of the door are joined. Then I have the drivers door to fill and gel coat in the same way. Attachment Deleted |
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Post by neilsmith on Jun 13, 2016 19:31:55 GMT
I have now gel coated the driver door in the same way as I did the passenger door. There was a little bit of blending in and filling The top of The door first. I have also painted The inside of both doors with satin black. Quite alot of work had to be done first to fill and smooth out where the inner and outer door shells were joined at the factory.eventually I will have both doors painted the same colour inside and out. Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted[attachment id="607" thumbnail=" I previously had to bond the inner and outer shells together around the perimeter of the side window, as this was not done by the factory. |
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Post by neilsmith on Jun 13, 2016 20:01:48 GMT
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Post by Peter on Jun 14, 2016 6:25:39 GMT
That's looking good, surprising just how many differences MkI and MkIII doors.
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Post by neilsmith on Jul 3, 2016 15:27:33 GMT
I have been working on the door cards which were in a green gelcoat and hsd never been fitted. I have decided to paint them on this car rather than cover them. So I have painted them silver for now as I haven't seen another one this colour. Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted |
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Post by neilsmith on Jul 3, 2016 15:57:46 GMT
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Post by Peter on Jul 4, 2016 11:51:54 GMT
Quite similar to my new ones under construction, I couldn't quite remember how they looked as they are quite rare, even on 'finished' cars. I went for a complete cover at the front bottom corner rather than exposing the handle and I'm looking at a lever which pokes out just on the corner as it's only going to be an emergency system as the latch 'pops' with the actuator 'open' signal but I also have 'Clio' handles in mind too, these are cheap on Ebay and can have black or chrome levers. I'm going to cover mine in a variety of materials, the combination of which has to b fixed but on theses lines to go with the rest of the interior.  The angle of the front is larger on mine as I have increased the 'slash' on the end of the dash to make ingress easier for fat ol' gits.  |
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Post by neilsmith on Aug 7, 2016 18:50:32 GMT
Earlier in the year I picked up a second hand roll bar or seat belt mounting bar. I have recently painted and fitted the bar and drivers seat belt belt. I had to drill into the chassis and bolt it down as my car didn't have this seat belt arrangement fitted. Attachment Deleted |
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Post by neilsmith on Aug 7, 2016 18:53:42 GMT
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Post by neilsmith on Aug 27, 2016 13:20:03 GMT
I have been working on a gear stick gaiter retaining device. The idea I came up with was to cut out some plastic sheet and bond three layers together with the centre piece the smallest diameter. this then screws down to the transmission tunnel and the rib on the inside of the gear stick gaiter is then located and held firmly in place. Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted |
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Post by Peter on Aug 27, 2016 18:22:49 GMT
Way to go, looking like it was made to be there, which is the secret of good custom work.
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Post by neilsmith on Oct 2, 2016 16:15:32 GMT
I found that the boot lid did not fit very well, it was slightly bowed and also there was no gap on the right hand side rear where it meets the body.This made it difficult to close. There is also some cracks in the gel coat but I will repair this another time. Attachment Deleted |
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Post by neilsmith on Oct 2, 2016 16:24:01 GMT
What I had to do was add some fibre glass matting and resin to fill in the hinge hole on the right hand side. I then had to re drill the hole for the hinge about 2mm back. This allowed the boot lid to fit better with an even shut line. The extra fibre glass should also help give the boot lid extra strength. There will still be some more work to do, to improve the bow across the back of the boot lid. Attachment Deleted |
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