|
Post by Peter on Dec 11, 2016 18:32:57 GMT
Major progress at last! The new headlight bar and bearings are in and the headlight pods, all clean and shiny, have been installed and the electrics done, Micro switches fitted, although I did manage to break the arm mounting on one so need a new one, and it all works. Plus the final bit of wiring has been done and the four LEDs in the handbrake section all work to indicate which display lights are on, Attachment DeletedFront of roof lining has been fixed in too but needs a little work as where the handles fit it has rucked (yes, rucked) up the lining, need to work on that. Next stop getting the console hooked up and fixed in too. Biggest job will be the speedo calibration, once I have worked out what I am going to do regards a sender unit. Off the front hub or by the old cable or from the disc ?
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Dec 22, 2016 13:20:24 GMT
Started to trouble shoot the electrics yesterday and guess what, bugger all worked! Turned out the super reliable latching relay board that has operated faultlessly all year and is the 'ignition switch', failed, so I'm looking at a more reliable alternative without needing a key as such. Thinking Arduino and a finger print reader maybe or a Bluetooth switch operated by just having your phone with you. The master 30A strip fuse blew but the replacement hasn't, strange, I must have shorted out something whilst poking about the relay block and apart from the fuel pump not much else worked so a lot of digging needed, the remote relay board work perfectly with the doors and display lights all functioning as it is supposed to, including the centre console door buttons. The centre console fitted perfectly so just need to make up a pair of 'L' brackets to hold the upper part to the cross bar to hold it firmer. The side pods need a bit of work, the 'document draw' I spent so much time on is too deep and hits the cross member, I only have 17cm to work with, so it all had to come out and it will need a rethink and the left pod needs relief around the 'A' post but the right one is OK
Seems having everything made and "just a matter of bolting it all in", doesn't work, much better developing as you go, one stage at a time.
Christmas or whatever you call it, is upon us and nothing much for a month now work wise so I hope to get it all sorted by new year.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Dec 31, 2016 14:58:12 GMT
December 30th 2016 was a good day. Full check out of the lighting systems found one crossed indicator and a slight problem with the LED front indicators flash rate being a bit erratic but a 10Ohm resistor will fix that. The 'central connection board' idea really paid dividends as I was able to trace all systems from a single point rather than chase all over the car for a connection. Attachment DeletedThe small PCB in the bottom left failed so I am getting a more robust switch controlled by my phone's bluetooth, at least I can't forget my phone. Attachment DeletedA revision of the headlight and DRL relays paid off too with a more robust system and one less relay needed so I was able to use that to enable the headlight washers when the headlights are on. One of the micro switches broke its lever mounting slot so I am looking to fit stronger ones, possibly one of these as they are double pole so I would only need one and a cam on the shaft. Attachment DeletedThe new self aligning shaft bearings are ACE! so smooth and solid and I recommend them to anyone with a SS and 928 headlight pods, it means a new 30mm x 1200mm tube to replace the 32mm one (or pay a lot more for 32mm bearings) but everything still fits. Dash side pods are not going well however, draw was a bust, too deep so needs a full rebuild of the underside and the left one needs trimming around the A post area and steering cowl but nothing serious, just time consuming. All the LEDs works but I need to make sure they are well hot glued in place, don't want them trailing behind the car and breaking off. All centre console functions and radio work although I would like to make it easier to change the button battery for the door transmitter, like a separate coin cell holder at the rear. Still need to sort out the speedo sender but that is a whole different ball game. Also tried an acrylic spray paint in the rear quarter, very nice deep black gloss, took a while to get hard and I would need a lot more prep' and primer but shows promise as it blends well with the polished area of the original gel, thereby saving a lot of time and money.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Jan 19, 2017 12:19:51 GMT
Oh dear, What has happened? I tried starting up the car yesterday after four years standing and it had no spark. I tracked that down to the Pertronix ignitor and decided that was $80 too much at the moment so reverted to contacts. After an hour tracking down the parts I had carefully put aside just in case I found the insulator between the spring/contact on the points and the bracket was missing and the wire to the condenser was also cut off. So I made a new insulator from scrap plastic and soldered a new wire onto the condenser and refitted it all, SPARK! yeah.
Fresh petrol in the tank, pump primed the carbs OK but when I checked the accelerator pump, no squirt of fuel, tried to start the engine but even with the choke levers on it only ran for a few seconds at a time so I need to strip and clean the carbs. Also the fan rubs on the housing so I need to remove the shroud and alternator assembly and sort that out, if the fan is bent in any way I can get a standard new one on the 'bay for 50 inc or welded and balanced for 90 quid.
The electrics, although still simple, are fighting back and the latching relay that acts as an ignition switch has packed up so I have ordered a new relay to fix that, in the meantime I use a normal on/off toggle switch.
I was worried I had blown the spare speedo I have hooked up in the absence of the console but it turned out to be the 2 x 5W halogen bulbs, so 2x new ordered for 8 quid inc p&p
The starter relays have been reconfigured so the alternator output and ignition live activate relay one which in turn provides earth to relay two which operates the starter solenoid and is latched via a diode between starter input and 12v out, (so it feeds back ), when the engine starts 12v +12v = 0v so the relay closes and the earth to relay two drops and the starter stops, otherwise it continues until the engine does start.
Replacing the complex Cobra alarm immobilizer with a simple Bluetooth switch and a relay, when my phone is the area of the car the systems are enabled but one needs both the PIN for my phone (to turn on Bluetooth) and the PIN for the Bluetooth to pair and activate. Why a relay? Well, when the system is deactivated the relay is in NO mode and wired to the siren and battery live, opening a door switches the relay from NO to NC and sounds the alarm, simple, activate the system and ignition 12v opens the relay.
Having three main areas of work is as much as I can cut it down to at the moment; 1/. Get the engine running sweet. (clean carbs and tune, sort fan out) 2/. Interior, sort out dash side pods, make door cards, fit console and dash pods. make and fit door sills/door catches and 'A' post trims, secure seats. 3/. Bodywork, rub down gel coat to see just where and how much work is needed, repair and paint.
That's all folks.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Jan 21, 2017 17:45:51 GMT
Couple of days in the 'shed' but again some work got in the way in the shape of my old bosses scooter with a blown starter fan and kick gear. €€€€ However, with that out of the way I removed and stripped the duel DellOrto DRLA 40s and what a gungy mess with stinky old petrol . so a DEEP clean on the way. I also removed the shroud and alternator as I wasn't happy with the way the fan sits, too close at the bottom of the intake, so that is out and I am looking at getting the fan TIG welded and balanced. There is one on Ebay USA all done for $50 but shipping at $90 is a killer. Also taking advise on-line, fitting some vanes inside to improve cooling to #3 & 4 cylinders. I was looking at an insert for the A shrouds with all the air flow sorted but although the insert is a reasonable $150, the shipping, even via my Bro' in Alabama, is too much. Attachment DeletedI did run the engine up but with all that stale crap in the carbs it was not having any of it and spitting back on #1 too. At first I could get a spark, then a bolt of lighting from the Petronix coil and then dead again so I checked the ignitor that replaces the points and condenser and it was duff! So I then spent an hour hunting down the points and condenser I had placed somewhere safe and after I found them I saw the insulating block was missing and the wire from condenser to coil was cut off so I had to make an insulator and solder a new wire on, all good and it fired up, the auto-self start worked too with the starter cutting out when the engine ran so all good there. Next time, armed with a can of carb' cleaner, It's clean and rebuild time for the dells and sit the alternator in the shroud better. BUT IT RUNS! Kinda.
|
|
|
Post by neilsmith on Jan 25, 2017 17:50:45 GMT
Well done peter you are getting on well. What is it that makes getting an eagle back on the road difficult in Spain on a car that is already registered? I have owned three eagles and found the last 2 easy to get through a British Mot. In the UK if it has a Q registration it is then considered the same as a 1971 car.so only a visual check of the exhaust smoke, no fog lamp or hazard lights needed and only one rear view mirror. The steering lock needs to work only if the ignition switch is on the steering column.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Jan 26, 2017 19:41:14 GMT
First thing is a "report" , (160€) this means an inspection by an 'engineer' to establish the basic specification, sizes of tyres, dimensions, etc with 4 photos for the "Fisher Technica" or registration doc', then an ITV. (MoT) (150€) with checks to see if it complies to regs and if the car is homogalated, which it isn't and of course as it is a 1966 VW there isn't a standard VIN number or homogolation code. For example, I already know the LED DRL lights in the nose will be an issue despite being compulsory on cars from 2013, and not having been fitted by a recognized garage and the combo side/indicator/fog lights do not have an E mark, the screen doesn't have any markings at all.
Once that lot passes I have to pay an 10% import tax based on their value of the car relative to it's age, that is going to be interesting, is it a 1995 Eagle or a 1966 VW? and vat at 21% on the lot.
Then I have you have to find someone to insure it, Spain doesn't do kit or special cars very much so no Adrian Fluxes. I have already inquired to most companies with description and photos and no one will insure it, so far but I know there is someone because Javier in Oviedo, in Northern Spain had the Red one with the F40 style wing, just finding that company and hoping the already expensive Spanish insurance, my A class 170CDi is 225€ TPFT, (they are terrible drivers), isn't astronomical.
Then I can pay the local IBI, (annual road tax) to the town hall in Estepona, buy new number plates and drive off. Easy. No?
SHOULD COST NO MORE THAN 600€ if I do it myself, if I get someone to do it all for me at least 2,000€.
That's a lot for a pensioner.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Jan 26, 2017 21:13:04 GMT
Today's I rebuilt the DellOrto DRLA 40s all bar the cap screws as I bought the wrong O rings yesterday. Made and fitted the first two of five inserts to improve cooling. Rather than weld, and ruin the shroud, I am pop riveting them in from the rear.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Feb 5, 2017 13:10:06 GMT
Still plodding on. the new heavy duty micro switches fitted. Of course the bracket I so lovingly bashed out in two minuets no longer fitted so I had to make a new one, a chunk of 25.
mm square tube served as a spacer with a couple of 'Riv-nuts' to hold the switches on, (photo to follow). All I nee to do now is set up the stops to get the light positions right.
Dash side pods are not working out too well and I am on the point of making new ones, easy to do as they are made from 3mm ply skin on 10mm ply ribs, like a model aircraft wing.
Trying to find out the correct number of pulses per mile needed for the Astra GTe digi-dash, lots of posts on various forums but none have come out with, "The Astra digi-dash requires xxxxx pulses per mile", I can then calculate that with my 740 revs per mile front wheel just how many 'teeth' I need on the sender for the three wire transponder to give the correct reading, e.g. 15,000 pulses needed / 740 = 20 pulses (teeth) per revolution of the front wheel.
|
|
|
Post by trike on Feb 6, 2017 9:45:58 GMT
Nice to see someone making progress, must admit haven't touched mine for months, what with work getting in the way,the cold weather and the usual "not in the mood , also have to get my horsebox (camper) finished as its taking up too much workshop space. Regards the cooling, i take it you still have the little deflector plates that clip on between the cylinders, these direct the air into the cylinder fins as opposed to blowing straight down between them, these sometimes get left out (or lost) during a rebuild, makes a BIG difference.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Feb 7, 2017 0:42:19 GMT
Yep, deflect plates fitted. Covers are long sided rather than for horizontal tins. Also looking at flexible ring between shroud and fan. Did toy with the idea of electric fan but a 6" would be too small and an 8" would be too large size wise but would give the volume needed but some have said it wouldn't have the required pressure. I have stayed with the later fan with a few modifications and I'll see how it goes, just hope I don't end up with my heads covered in bits of fan blade.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Feb 12, 2017 14:18:21 GMT
Eagle SS progress has been a bit slow with a little work getting in the way and weather being crap, even here.
I have removed the alternator stand and inlet manifolds so I can remove both cylinder/head covers and clean them up and check the manifold to head seal as I was getting spitting on #1 and I thought it might be an air leak there, cleaned plugs etc, had to bodge one of the r/h inlet manifold allen bolts as the internal hex had worn and fit a new one.
Fitted the last two alloy internal deflectors to the 'A' shroud to improve air flow and bashed reformed the shroud into a better fit and refitted the alternator/fan and got a good fit there too so now I have the engine covers, manifolds and carburettors back on and ready to run, again.
Headlight relays and micro switches have been 'tuned' so the headlights are in their correct position.
Bluetooth relay switch has arrived so I am playing with that, I may just have it as an immobiliser rather than the complex Cobra CAT1 alarm, so as long as I am near with my phone and the correct PIN the car will start, I will still have the single button ignition/start function. I have tested the auto start relay function when the engine was running (badly) and as soon as it fires up the starter relay cuts out, so that is fine.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Feb 19, 2017 14:42:06 GMT
Only had a hour in the shed after visiting hospital for a preoperative check and made templates for the sill plates and dash side brackets to be cut out of 2mm stainless. Also a useful little tip: How many time has one blown the track on a circuit board (PCB) leaving one with the choice of either scrapping the whole unit or bridging with wire soldered on between component pins? I found this self adhesive copper tape on Ebay that gardeners use to stop slug and snail ingress to plant pots. I can cut an exact copy of the burnt out track and stick it onto the PCB and solder to the pins. Attachment Deleted
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Feb 26, 2017 17:56:28 GMT
Bit of a bummer, went to the 'shed' for a few hours on Friday and as soon as I opened up the guy from the cafe upstairs arrived with a couple of plumbers and proceeded to remove a 5 meter section of totally clogged 2" piping from the ceiling above the car. three hours later I could get on with work instead of helping the useless buggers and guarding the windscreen.
Bluetooth relay temp install proved very successful, worked a treat as soon as I either came in range, (about 10 meters) or switched on the phones Bluetooth. Working in conjunction with the latching relay for the start button I have a very simple and hopefully secure ignition system as the NC side of the relay is hooked into the siren (that was on the Cobra alarm) and the neg side to the door, bonnet and boot switches, simpels.
|
|
|
Post by neilsmith on Mar 9, 2017 16:06:52 GMT
Has your car got torsion bar front suspension? and do you know of any companies that can suply a double wishbone coil over upgrade? I have heard people talk of such a mod for the beetle. Maybe for the rear suspension also.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Mar 9, 2017 18:50:20 GMT
Has your car got torsion bar front suspension? and do you know of any companies that can supply a double wishbone coil over upgrade? I have heard people talk of such a mod for the beetle. Maybe for the rear suspension also. Best bet for the rear is the 1302/3 IRS rear end, also fitted to the 1500 semi auto which came with torsion front/IRS rear. You can convert to IRS with all the IRS bits (including the gearbox and drive shafts) and a couple of brackets welded onto the torsion bar or a 'super beetle' chassis with strut front end and fit a torsion bar frame head and torsion or Red9 front. There is also a coil over conversion for both IRS and swing axle and of course for those with deep pockets, the air suspension kits. If you 'Google' "Red 9 VW suspension" all will be reviled. Yes, mine has torsion front end, it really is the only option apart from the VERY expensive Red 9 conversion to double wishbone and coil over. I have sway-a-ways and shorter dampers with special ball joints for lowered suspension and anti-bump steer bushes which reverses the steering ball joints, heavy duty roll bar and poly bushes all round front and rear and Rack and Pinion steering, Wilwood 4 pot calipers and 20mm vented discs. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Mar 10, 2017 12:05:41 GMT
Bloody latching relay doesn't work out of the box so a delay on that front. Interior at the door seal and sill plate stage only to have my cut-off tool bust inside but a new one has arrived so zzzzzzzip with a 3" disc and I'll have the stainless cut out in no time. I have also decided that rather than remake the dash pod ends for a better fit to the door opening I have made some stainless end plates which double as brackets and to just make a new under section for the passenger side rather than do a new glove box, after all I do have a glove box in the armrest anyway .
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Mar 19, 2017 10:22:45 GMT
Not a lot to report as work is cranking up and 5 Buggys needed ITV(MoT). Suzuki AN400 engine rebuild is well on the way with a new crankshaft installed with a very expensive Vertex piston kit. Very careful rebuild of the four valve head now before refitting to Burgman.
Need to buy some fresh petrol and fire up the VW engine and tune in the newly cleaned carburetors. Interior has stalled while all this has gone on but stainless steel is marked out for cutting for the door sills and dash brackets.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Mar 30, 2017 21:23:45 GMT
Work sill getting in the way, at least the rash of annual tests are done and all past but tours are building up and so are the repairs. plus the Mercedes A170CDi has chucked the alternator so that's 250 out of pocket this week. It would have to be the water cooled one not the MUCH cheaper air cooled one of course and I only have to drop the rear of the front subframe to get to it, bloody crap mobile.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Apr 4, 2017 16:47:36 GMT
Much as I hate to admit it I am in love,,,, with the 2014 Corvette interior. Attachment DeletedI think I could alter my dash to very loosely resemble it and include the two 4" side monitors, there would be a couple of switches for the monitors as I wouldn't want them on all the time and possible all behind a black screen as now. Attachment DeletedThis is a VERY rough Paintshop effort and in no way represents a finished item. Just an idea,,, again.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on May 9, 2017 14:42:52 GMT
Getting there with two more steps forward instead of backward. I decided, after cracking my skull on them for the umpteenth time, the door latches from the MkII Golf are not needed, the actuators hold the doors down just fine so they and all the related electronics can come off. The ignition system has changed a bit and I have upgraded the start button to the latest type that has an ACC mode rather than a simple on/off one. 1, press for ACC, press again for ignition and start and press a third time to kill it all. Options, press brake and button to start/stop, all sorts of options with this one including remote start when handbrake applied and linking to alarm and locking. Radio RCAs were a problem as one side of the smaller amp was shorting out so no front speakers and cutting out when I turned up the volume. luckily I had a spare Soundlab 2 x 75w one kicking about, after 20 years and now all four main speakers work and the dash nearly 100%, just the left halogen bulb not working so I can't read the gauges, so easy fix. Attachment DeletedDurite hazard switch broke so I have a new one on the way, buggered if I'm going to change it for a differnt one after all the trouble wiring that on in. Fan is great, on high speed it is a real blast from the dash vents and on slow it is good enough to keep the cabin cooled. I had to make a new link on the relays and a tweak on the micro switches to get the headlights to do what I wanted them to do, not what they felt like doing, so they all work fine now. Need to make a box for the micro switches because as I have mounted side by side to the rear of the bar rather than one each side and they are twice as big as the old ones, they stick out a bit and are vulnerable to getting clobbered. All the buttons on the console work for the doors via radio and I have changed the mode to 'keep pressed' to operate, that way I get to make sure they are shut completely and also the annoying 'bouncing' at the top of opening is eliminated. All the switches work for lights, fogs and fan. Just a big hole where the old starter button was and a space on the electronics board, ready for the new one when it arrives in a couple of weeks. Forgot just how little head room there is, I guess I just 'hunker down' a bit more.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on May 10, 2017 21:57:57 GMT
What a day! I concentrated on loosing the door latches and associated wiring to start with and that has gone OK and I even have a door card in place but I don't like the finished result of the panel used to hide the hole, not up to standard, so I will redo that with a ribbed covering panel so it matches the centre console with edging and a button switch for the door lights.
The 2 DIN radio is a pain, been kicking about for 3 or more years and has suffered, the DVD doesn't run the discs and the Sub woofer output doesn't work so I spent way too much time messing about with the amps only to find out they were good, so I need to put things back as they were so I can use the frequency cut on the big 4 x 120 amp for the 10" woofer with the 2 x 8" three way rear Alpines and the 2 x 6 1/4" front Alpines and tweeters on the small 2 x 100 amp.
Also another slight hiccup, the Bluetooth switch works great BUT it means I can't use the Bluetooth for phone calls on the radio, one or the other, so I need to see what I can do with the new start/stop button and maybe some other security device.
Speedo fixed, new bulb and I had the modules in the wrong sides, dough! Just need to find out how many pulses needed per wheel rev' so I can make the speed sensor.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on May 16, 2017 13:43:34 GMT
Great news, I fixed the DVD player, it was the ribbon cable from the DVD deck to the main PCB so it all works and can go back in again, just waiting on the start button gizmo and I can finally fix in the console.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Jun 1, 2017 17:29:57 GMT
At long last my knee operation is due on the 7th, so I will be down for a few days. Been nearly as long to get this done as it has rebuilding the SS. Talking of which, I recieved the new start button with ACC position and the little SS (Mini Countryman side) for the consol amd a pair of 2" TWEETERS but no time as yet.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Jun 14, 2017 14:46:28 GMT
Agggghhhh the pain, now I don't mind a sharp pain like hitting your little toe on a table leg or whacking your finger with a hammer, these things happen but it is over in a moment and forgotten about in minuets BUT this knee thing is 24/7 and only dulled by pain killers. It has been a week now and I can bend it about 40 degrees and almost straight, only restricted at the moment by inflammation. The surgeon, a nice young lady, said my knee was, "very, very, bad", so in mechanical terms, f****d. Getting about a bit now but still laying with my leg elevated to reduce the swelling and bruising is my fav' position whilst watching the Discovery Channel motor programs that I don't usually get to see. Another week will se me more mobile and I hope o get a mix of Eagle and buggy work by the end of July as it gets stupid busy soon. SS wise I have the new two stage start stop button which has an accessory position, pair of 200w 2" tweeter for mounting in the end of the dash and a pair of 'S' from the Mini Countryman side repeaters for the centre console, I already have a pair on the rear and larger ones in the side repeaters). Attachment DeletedSmall latching button switches for the door lights to fit so I can switch the tilt switch for the marker and puddle lights off or the mini battery packs will go flat in a hour or three if the door is left up.
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Jun 21, 2017 10:51:32 GMT
Knee is progressing well and managing to get around a bit but routine is set at up at ten, walk around flat on crutches for 20 minuets, brunch on patio, back to bed at one with leg elevated on a board to keep straight, exercises to straighten and flex and lift, ice pack for three hours to reduce swelling and BIG bruise. Watch Discovery channel until eight, Spanish 'BOOM!' quiz show 'till nine and then dinner in lounge, watch film, (in English) until midnight or one and back to bed and sleep.
Can't wait until I can get my hands dirty again. I have th start button to fit, the 2" 200w tweeters to go in the dash top, button switches into the doors for puddle lights and the SS logo to fit so plenty to do as well as work piling up in the buggy shed.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2017 17:25:43 GMT
Knee is progressing well and managing to get around a bit but routine is set at up at ten, walk around flat on crutches for 20 minuets, brunch on patio, back to bed at one with leg elevated on a board to keep straight, exercises to straighten and flex and lift, ice pack for three hours to reduce swelling and BIG bruise. Watch Discovery channel until eight, Spanish 'BOOM!' quiz show 'till nine and then dinner in lounge, watch film, (in English) until midnight or one and back to bed and sleep. Can't wait until I can get my hands dirty again. I have th start button to fit, the 2" 200w tweeters to go in the dash top, button switches into the doors for puddle lights and the SS logo to fit so plenty to do as well as work piling up in the buggy shed. Good luck with the knee, I know that boring time drives on crazy
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Jul 10, 2017 22:53:07 GMT
Doesn't look a lot different but two hours with a Dremel to make the new start/stop button fit, then I fixed the SS on. Attachment Deleted it's a but fuzzy, I'll do a better one asap
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2017 20:31:20 GMT
now that does look good,,, i like that !!
|
|
|
Post by Peter on Jul 12, 2017 11:02:05 GMT
Me too Big improvement over the old single push button which was basically just a button to a relay, this one has options and interface possibilities to alarms, locking etc but mainly two modes. 1, press brake and then button, switches on everything and starts engine on one go. Press brake and then button everything stops and switches off. 2, quick press only, no brake and it goes into ACC mode so speedo etc all lights up, radio on etc. press again and starter engages, press again and it resets to all off. The 4 buttons are for, left = (drivers in my case) door only up and down, right = both doors up and down. Switches across are, Side lights (up) off (centre) main (down), Rear fogs only (up) Centre off, front and rear fogs, (down), Fan 1 speed (up), off (centre) fan 2 speed, (down) SS are from Mini countryman side badges and same on rear and side repeaters. Attachment Deleted
|
|