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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 5, 2008 15:22:39 GMT
Hi I am rebuilding my ss, my hinges were rotten as most are, I am now making stainless steel replacements, I have loads of the stainless material so i can make quite a few sets, any body interested in a pair of stainless steel hinges for there ss. I was quoted £100 from TEAC and that was multiple orders, i ll make you a pair for £50.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2008 16:32:36 GMT
Sounds good to me.
Put me down for a pair.
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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 7, 2008 14:33:58 GMT
here are some pictures of what i have done so far on my hinges, I decided to cut the pannel off the top of the roof, it makes access easier and my roof was in a right mess anyway. You can de laminate the roof, if your hinges are that bad they should practicaly fall out! my did the first time.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2008 21:38:50 GMT
Does the pair include the pin & hinges?
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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 8, 2008 11:27:39 GMT
yes, thats just showing how far i have got on my first set. i will make the hinges complete, however im waiting for some round bar at the moment. What is the measurement across your hinge mount holes, the ones in the roof of your car, would like to make sure they are the same as mine.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2008 19:53:45 GMT
Hi Chris
I'll measure up at the weekend.
Cheers.
Mike
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2008 14:54:41 GMT
Hi Chris
End to end of the steel tube is 517mm.
Is this the same as yours?
I notice you are bonding in the new hinges with the door off the car. I would be inclined to place the door on the car and manipulate it to get an exact fit prior to bonding the hinge in. Is there any reason you felt it best to do it off car? I only ask because I'll have to do the same job sometime in the near future.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2008 14:59:32 GMT
Chris , should have read your message properly. Center to center of the mounting holes on the roof is 547mm.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2008 17:06:48 GMT
at last ,, a supplier of hinges ,, you should make a nice little earner out of making these bud ,, its good for people to share thier skills,, well done
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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 12, 2008 18:34:27 GMT
I bonded the hinge into the roof first because i am going to move the mounting holes if necessary, i am lining the tube up with the straight line of the fiberglass. it would have been far too awkward to bond the hinge in with the door on the car, the resin would have dripped all over the car. If you like i can leave the mounting brackets holes so you can drill these yourself, you could then move the doors about for best fit.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2008 20:56:59 GMT
No, if you could just make them as yours, that way I can ask questions if I get stuck My last similar task was replacing a rotten old Webaso sunroof on my Scimitar. A friend gave me a complete roof from a car he was breaking and I cut the section I needed from this. I was doing a complete restoration at the time & had the interior stripped out but I still lined it with a couple of disposable dust sheets to collect the mess. I didn't find it too bad to work from inside the car but, then again, even a Scimitar is huge inside in comparison to the SS.
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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 13, 2008 10:01:32 GMT
Hi, I have now just finished the hinge on one side of my car, the difference is outstanding, the door is now actualy flat and evey line lines up, i had huge issues with the doors being higher than the rest of the car and they bulged out above the roof line, this is now corrected. as you can see i have done the driver side, the passenger side is untouched. All i have to do now is the final alignment and tidy the door edges up.
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Post by terryrob on Aug 14, 2008 21:58:54 GMT
your doing a good job there Chris, when do you think your ss will be back on the road.
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Post by chrisbailey on Aug 15, 2008 11:49:44 GMT
Well im working on the other door today whilst its sunny, every year i have tried to get the car ready for september, im hoping to get it done for christmas now though.
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Post by terryrob on Aug 15, 2008 23:04:15 GMT
Hope to see you at stoneleigh next year then
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Post by soldonkits on Apr 9, 2020 13:21:52 GMT
Hi Chris,
If you can stand any more guff on hinges here,s a another bit of info.
The centre line ie bolt hole to bolt hole, for the fixing bolts of the doors on my SS is 590mm, I have another pair of doors where the centre to centre is roughly 575mm. I don't think pre making these would be easy. Each set would need to be tailored to the particular car, if my doors are anything to go by.
I'm currenty fabricating a new pair of stainless hinges for Humpty so I hope to start something about the job soon... assuming it works OK. They are roughly along the same lines as the original but using a pair of adapted marine hatch hinges for each door thereby doing away with the tube. Welded to similar plates and bracing between plates before bonding in place, it should help reduce twisting. Details and photos to follow.
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Post by soldonkits on Apr 20, 2020 10:48:14 GMT
Some more on doors.
I'm very much following the same method as yourself for replacing the rotten hinges on my own car, Humpty, with some small differences, additional GRP panel inserts for strength and in the fibre glassing finish. The crucial difference is that my doors were not mounted on the car when I got it so I had no idea what to expect regarding fit.
After fabricating the new hinges, I did a trial fit of both the hinge and door to see how they sat together. The hinge appeared to sit well in what I supposed to be the right position but the doors! Neither door sits in the opening without sticking proud of the body somewhere or sinking below the opening profile in other places. As I've mentioned before I have the advantage of having two sets of doors to play with but neither fit and in different ways.
With little useful adjustment in the hinge set-up, I can see a lot of grinding down and building up of the areas around the doors and the doors themselves to get a good fit and some decent shut lines that won't have blind men on galloping horses laughing their socks off.
Is this the norm or have I cocked-up somewhere? Do doors warp this badly of their own accord or are they just a bad fit from new?
After all the work I've done so far to correct the poor build quality issues, I was expecting some miss-fitting of the doors but this seems excessive.
I'd love to hear how others fixed this square peg in round hole situation.
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SS hinges
Apr 20, 2020 11:35:45 GMT
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Post by chrisbailey on Apr 20, 2020 11:35:45 GMT
My doors fit just a poorly. I imagine they werent great to start with and then the gas struts have twisted them for the past 30 years.
The inside of the doors, where the catch fits i have a gap you can fit you closed fist in.
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Post by Peter on Apr 20, 2020 13:04:16 GMT
When new the doors fitted well but the struts soon pushed the rear corners out.
They really need a pair of in-roof mounted struts like a Deloren or Mercedes to even them up. My doors twist horribly with the actuators and if they didn't 'pull down' they would be useless so I am still looking to improve them, possibly with a small strut in the front above the screen, faster action also needed as I find the 7 seconds too long as can be seen on my YouTube video.
I have thought of hydraulics and using an accumulator and a smaller, quieter pump to maintain pressure so it would be instant electric valve operated not pressure direct from the pump.
Fortunately I haven't had any rust issues as it has been out of a rainy atmosphere for the past 20 years but the outer roof has sagged into the frame shape so needs filling and flatting. One day.
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Post by soldonkits on Apr 21, 2020 10:41:29 GMT
Glad to hear that I'm not alone with a badly fitting door problem but annoyed that the design for the opening system just makes the situation worse.
As I don't have any gas lift or even mounting points to guide me in my restoration, I'm considering a twin ram system similar to the Mazda AZ1, (all Google Mazda AZ1 ... oh you are doing) I'm just not sure there is enough room for them without serious modifications being needed... hey, wouldn't that make a change ... modifications to get something to work properly!?
Sorting out the Newton force needed and the stroke length will be fun but not as much fun as trying to conceal the rams in the roof line.
On a separate note, has anyone tried fitting a drip channel around the door openings similar to the one needed round the engine bay and front storage / boot area? It would guarantee no leaks and enable the use of a straight door seal instead of the bulky side mounted seal.
Just a thought. Love to hear from anyone that's tackled it or the twin ram mod.
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Post by Peter on Apr 21, 2020 14:00:24 GMT
All been tried when I was doing stuff for TEAC.
Ended up thinking to do away with Gull wing and go for 'Enzo' or 'Lambo' doors.
Twin in-roof Linak actuators with double 'A' hinges in the roof and the two struts in the door roof using the ribs to house metal channels all covered by a headlining panel that moved with the struts. 50Lbs force to lift would be 5.75Nm so 7Nm would be good to not strain the motors. The difference between high speed and heavy duty (lift power) is the gearing in the base of the actuator, they all have the same motors and treads etc.
I will see if I still have some of my infamous drawings if not I'll knock up one. Certainly a single strut, whether gas or electric will push the door on one side and twist it, no matter what.
Mine are 8" but I have changed the mounting positions so it pulls down better and kicks the bottom out less. The fastest would be 33mm/sec so 8" (200mm) will be about 6.7 seconds. (it is on YouTube)
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SS hinges
Sept 25, 2023 9:39:30 GMT
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Post by esprit on Sept 25, 2023 9:39:30 GMT
Hi guys, I need SS hinges for my rebuild. Are there any still available please. Paul
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SS hinges
Sept 25, 2023 14:10:29 GMT
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Post by chrisbailey on Sept 25, 2023 14:10:29 GMT
I don't think there has been a supplier of hinges for a very long time.
I made mine myself from some stainless tube, round bar and plate. I think I have enough for another set but I don't have a lathe which you will need to reduce the round bar to insert into the tube.
How bad are your hinges? Mine had rusted badly and created a bulge inside the door roof. I had to cut them out of the door and fibreglass new ones in.
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SS hinges
Sept 26, 2023 21:34:17 GMT
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Post by esprit on Sept 26, 2023 21:34:17 GMT
Mine are quite rusty and both of my door tops have bubbled up. I will be redoing the top of the doors so I was hoping to get stainless hinges. I don't have the equipment or ability to make my own. Paul
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Post by Charlie Francis on Sept 29, 2023 12:44:48 GMT
if anyone is making some, I'll gladly buy a set as well
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SS hinges
Sept 29, 2023 15:44:31 GMT
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Post by chrisbailey on Sept 29, 2023 15:44:31 GMT
It's only really worthwhile making several sets at a time, to keep costs down. Prices for stainless plate and tube are not cheap these days so even when make a batch of them up, I would think material cost would be about £100 per pair.
If you have a welder and a grinder, you can probably make these yourself. I made mine using some stainless plate, probly only 2.5mm thick. Some stainless tube 1/4 inch OD and seamless. Then I got some stainless round bar and cut into 4 with one side on each lathed down to fit into the tube. Then just welded it together. Drill the holes where it attaches to the car last so you get line them up when fitting. You can probably get away without a lathe if you can find some round bar that fits into the tube. The making is only a few hours work for each side. Installing them is a bigger job though. Epoxy resin is your friend.
Honestly, I would only recommend doing it if you are confident with fibreglass and you don't mind cutting into your car. If your doors are not bulging, then I would just clean the existing hinges up and paint them.
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Post by Peter on Oct 19, 2023 12:58:10 GMT
I would recommend using Sikaflex to bond the door roofs. epoxy doesn't grip on old fiber glass, even after an Acetone wash. With Sikaflex the door would break before the adhesive. Just clamp the two parts and jobs a solid one.
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