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Post by Peter on Oct 8, 2017 14:30:56 GMT
Yes it is a good idea to have night vision on it. I am still deciding where to mount it. I am considering mounting it near the rear view mirror. Right at the back above number plate is by far the best position or with modern micro cameras such as I have on the sides there is just enough room above the rear window. (where I have my brake light).
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Post by neilsmith on Nov 22, 2017 8:12:17 GMT
I have been working on a cardboard template that I will make into the centre console out of wood or aluminium. It will also house the reversing camera, or This may be mounted on the roof lining, I am not sure yet. I gave the Eagle a little drive yesterday and I have now done 140 miles since the MOT in June. Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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Post by terryrob on Nov 23, 2017 21:30:22 GMT
Great stuff Neil, you have one of the few that are on the road.
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Post by neilsmith on Dec 24, 2017 14:38:11 GMT
I have now made an MDF version of my cardboard template for a centre console. I am not sure yet whether to cover it in a material like leather or to make it into a mould and make the final console from fibre glass like the rest of the dash board. Attachment Deleted
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Post by neilsmith on Jan 21, 2018 10:38:34 GMT
I haven't used the headlamps much on the car and the headlamp lift motor stopped working. I removed it, stripped it down and found that the spindle had seized to the bush. It was a bit difficult to get the brushes back in when reassembling but the headlamps go up and down now. It is a wiper motor that is used, and i am not sure which vehicle it comes from, but it is the same motor described in the build manual because terminals have same numbers and letters on. There is still a little adjustment needed on the headlamp lift bar as headlamps are positioned a little low at the moment. Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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Post by Peter on Jan 22, 2018 12:02:31 GMT
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Post by neilsmith on Feb 25, 2018 16:22:58 GMT
I have bought a new rear wheel bearing for the car. The old bearing was starting to get noisy and had leaked some axle oil onto the rear brakes. The half shaft was quite easy to remove from the axle, but the bearing will have to be pressed off the half shaft. Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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Post by neilsmith on Mar 13, 2018 18:51:43 GMT
Bearing has now been pressed on to the half shaft and the car is back on all 4 wheels. I have bought new battery which is about half the size of the first one I fitted. I have altered the battery carrier to accommodate it. Attachment DeletedThere should be better air flow through radiator now.
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Post by neilsmith on May 6, 2018 18:40:10 GMT
When I took the car to a custom show a few weeks ago it got a little hot, so I have now fitted a kenlowe fan thermo switch that I have set to cut in at about 70 degrees. During my journey to the MOT yesterday it ran well and didn't get hot. I have recently put some slightly larger idle jets and main jets in which has reduced the flat spot and seems to have given a bit more power. Car passed the MOT with some adjustments to headlamp aim.
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Post by Peter on May 7, 2018 11:12:00 GMT
When I took the car to a custom show a few weeks ago it got a little hot, so I have now fitted a kenlowe fan thermo switch that I have set to cut in at about 70 degrees. During my journey to the MOT yesterday it ran well and didn't get hot. I have recently put some slightly larger idle jets and main jets in which has reduced the flat spot and seems to have given a bit more power. Car passed the MOT with some adjustments to headlamp aim. If tou don't have one, beg or borrow a 'colour tune'. mades a easy job of getting mixture right, improved my BMW e30 by 10% and better running to.
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Post by neilsmith on May 16, 2018 6:27:18 GMT
That is a very good idea. I did consider getting an air fuel ratio gauge that is fitted inside the car. I came across this idea when i was researching setting up the weber carb on YouTube. I think most of them for sale use a lambda sensor, and I am not sure whether a lambda sensor would work without an engine ECU to connect up to it.
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Post by trike on May 19, 2018 17:32:41 GMT
I've fitted a afr gauge in mine. No need for engine ecu , but you will need a wideband controller unless using one of the more expensive gauges with the controller built in. Having it permanently fitted is handy as you can monitor the mixture while driving under different throttle/load conditions.
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Post by neilsmith on Dec 22, 2018 13:30:31 GMT
I have fitted a smaller battery to the car and had to alter the battery carrier slightly. Also I have fitted a tail pipe to the exhaust and this makes it run a little quieter. The mounting pod for the reverse camera is now painted and fitted. I started and ran the engine for 5 0r 10 minutes but I haven't driven it for a few months. It still has an MOT on though and I will tax it in the spring. Attachments:
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Post by neilsmith on Jan 12, 2019 14:16:04 GMT
I Removed front bumper to do some fibre glass repairs, as I found that the indicator wouldn't stay in place very well because of the damage. I have added glass matting to the back and some gel coat to the outer corners. 'Plastic padding' gel coat filler to finish off the repair is on order.
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Post by neilsmith on Mar 24, 2019 16:12:56 GMT
Front bumper is now painted in mat black, and is fitted back on the eagle. It will be red when I have the car fully painted.
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Post by jasonv8ss on Mar 26, 2019 4:11:44 GMT
Just read all of this . Coming along nicely i must say . Good work with the door hinges too .
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Post by neilsmith on Sept 29, 2019 8:52:16 GMT
I have been working on the nearside rear wheel arch, as when the body shell came out of the factory in the 1980's it did not have a return edge on the arches.{first picture) [attachment id="842" thumbnail [attachment id="850" thumbnail This is how the wheel arch looks before and after the repair.( second picture) Attachments:
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Post by Peter on Sept 30, 2019 12:20:15 GMT
I have been working on the nearside rear wheel arch, as when the body shell came out of the factory in the 1980's it did not have a return edge on the arches. Did the same on mine, a load of P45 and sanding did the job. The 'factory' finish is clip on plastic section in black or chrome, I didn't like it, hence the returns.
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Post by neilsmith on Sept 30, 2019 16:18:37 GMT
ON my car I used the chrome trim that was supplied with the kit 30+ years ago as a mold for the wheel arch return. I screwed it down to hold it firmly in the right place after applying some release wax to it. I then use some 'upol' fibre glass filler from behind to create the wheel arch return. Attachments:
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Post by neilsmith on Oct 27, 2019 10:26:20 GMT
with some further work to the offside rear wheel arch, it is now looking like this:
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Post by neilsmith on Nov 2, 2019 15:15:39 GMT
I have coated the repair of the nearside rear arch in a black gel coat. The next stage will be the front wheel arch repairs.
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Post by neilsmith on Nov 10, 2019 9:52:59 GMT
Moving on to the boot lid, I found that the thickness is very thin indeed, so it is not surprising that it has sagged over the years. I used some metal braces on the top that were shaped to the correct contour of the rear bodywork. Then I strengthened the boot lid with a couple of extra layers of matting and resin.
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Graham Wood
E.O.C. Chairman
Webmaster
User name = RAM
Posts: 516
Location, Town please: Southport, U.K.
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Post by Graham Wood on Nov 15, 2019 17:02:12 GMT
Neil. Change the date in your camera. It's no longer year 2016 !
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Post by neilsmith on Apr 7, 2020 8:49:53 GMT
Further repairs carried out to the boot lid. After grinding back the cracks in the gel coat I used some high strength gel coat filler.
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Post by neilsmith on Apr 7, 2020 9:01:46 GMT
Further repairs carried out to the boot lid. After grinding back the cracks in the gel coat I used some high strength gel coat filler. I have now covered most of the boot lid with fresh gel coat.
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