The bodywork is fine apart from the odd knock in the workshop over the years and where I managed to mess it up, like the doors, where I tried various mirrors and removed the handles and the rear wings where the Ford Sierra bonnet vents are, scoop entries still need work and the boot lid where a third brake light lived before I built it in over the rear window, stuff like that.
The 3D carbon fibre is for effect only like on the all carbon fibre Koenigsegg where some parts are left bare.
I am doing the bonnet, but not the louvres, the boot, mirrors and later, much later, under the heading 'bolt on goodies', the splitter, defuser and ground effect side skirts/canards.
I have now trial fitted the bonnet to the car. All the fiber glass repair and filler work is done to the bonnet and the shut lines look quite good. I am taking just the bonnet to a paint sprayer next week to have it covered with a gel coat
The bonnet hasn't been gelcoated yet but the paint sprayer has been very busy. I hoped to have the bonnet on before I went away for Christmas. When I get home I will start the eagle up as it hasn't been started for a couple of months
The bonnet hasn't been gelcoated yet but the paint sprayer has been very busy. I hoped to have the bonnet on before I went away for Christmas. When I get home I will start the eagle up as it hasn't been started a couple of months
I have now got the bonnet back after being sprayed with gel coat. It was still a little tacky so I had to coat it with PVA and water, this starves it from air and allows it to fully cure. I have fitted it back on to the car and will have it painted at a later date. I tried to start the eagle today after it standing for a few months. There seems to be no spark for some reason but at least it gave the engine a good spin over and helps prevent the clutch sticking up.
Yes, I gave the points a quick clean, but I haven't checked the voltage at the coil. I gave the battery a good charge before hand but the ignition system has been set up with a 12 volt coil and no ballast resister. The main wiring loom had a ballast resister attached when it was removed from a doner car and I think these were used with a different coil which would have been 10 or 11 volts. I am going to get hold of one of these coils and refit a ballast resister. It would be better still with electronic ignition.
Ballast resistors were used with a low voltage coil, usually 6V, so when starting it bypassed the resistor to provide a big spark, once the alternator/dynamo kicked in it revered to the resistor and normal spark. 12v coil and no resistor is normal these days with improvements in coils etc. Pertonix is the way to go, no external box.
Back in summer 2015 I made a start on the gull wing door repairs. The main problem was that the mild steel hinge plates had corroded inside the fibre glass. Also the inner and outer door mouldings had never been bonded together in the window frame area, and this made the doors feel very flimsy. I marked out the position of the hinges on top of the doors and cut away some of the outer fibre glass.once I had done this the old hinges were prised out with ease. I then took them to a company who specialised in stainless steel fabrication who charged a very reasonable 100 pounds to make a pair in stainless.
I bonded on the new hinges to the doors with polyurethane adhesive. I had marked out where the hinges had to be positioned by drilling through the door and straight into the old rusty hinges with a 6mm drill bit. When the old hinges were removed I then laid them over the new ones and drilled straight through the holes to transfer these reference points. When the new hinges were bonded to the doors they were held in the correct place with some 6mm bolts.
I made a new top panel for the doors. I used a piece of perspex to mould it from and built it up with about five layers of fibre glass mat. When it had set I trimmed it down to size then bonded it on top of the new hinges. Then after grinding away a slight channel along the join it was blended in with some strips of fibre glass and resin.
Yes that will be very helpful thanks. I fitted a new ballast resister type coil and refitted the original ballast resister last week and found that the car had a good spark and after priming up the carburetor with petrol it started well.
Underside of MkIII door, there is about a 2cm raised area from about 4cm in from the top edge and out to above the window. It could be yours is the same. Nice job on the hinges by the way, I don't know why they didn't make them from stainless in the first place as many a SS door has suffered from rusty hinge plates. not mine thank heaven, indoors too much
My doors are different to this as they don't have these ribs underneath. The ribs on your car must make the doors more rigid. Do you have any pictures of the door seals in the roof area? I am considering changing the lip that the seal fits onto in the roof area. So rather than having to try to push the seal into a right angle,I would change The lip to give a more gradual curve,so hopefully have less leaks.
The door seal is a 'C' section that fits on the door opening all the way around, there is no 'right angle', so to ensure water doesn't enter, a good seal is necessary between the seal and the body, a smear of sealant prior to applying the rubber is a good idea. The headlining is trapped in the seal too, but that's a whole different ball game. I think this was the one I bought from CBS or was it on Ebay, I'll check and update if needs be..