Do NOT fit a Rover V8 or any other big engine, Jason did and it was undrivable and currently is used at Prescott for racing only as it's too dangerous for the road, A straight 4 will provide more than enough power for some very spirited driving. Anyway, it is a hell of a lot of work.
Can you elaborate on the problems he encountered? The rover lump isn't hugely powerful compared to the pinto, and at best I'd be looking at 200 horse power after light tuning. The suspension will obviously be uprated all round with adjustable dampers, lowered springs, thicker anti roll bars, wilwood brakes and whatever else I think of.
Keeping the pinto was our original plan, however after getting the car and sitting in it, it deserves the madness of a v8 and I had one lying around anyway
It just made it a pig to drive with such a light rear end, A Daimler rear end helps but,,,
I know the Rover V8 is light I have had one in 1985 and although I'm not saying "don't do it", I can remember putting my SD1 auto into a round-a-bout at 30mph and coming out at 60mph, sideways and as for in the wet and that's in a heavy car, I dread to think how many times the back end would step out or swap ends thereby making it 'fun' but bloody dangerous.
Bushboy on euro-nova has a 2.2 V6 lump in the REAR of his Nova and quite a few others have larger lumps in the rear of Stirlings, Eurekas, Novas and SSs but it seems not many have put a bigger lump in the front of a SS, even Chaz' stayed with the 2L Pinto after fitting a Sierra rear end (with inboard discs). I myself have about 110hp in the boot and that is quite enough.
I would certainly 'advise' doing all the suspension improvements and Wilwwod brakes, (I use them too) but sitting on my hill watching the world go round as I do, I think a well tuned Pinto is enough 'fun' (easier to maintain too.
Finally got around to doing some more work on the car. , had to finish my horsebox/camper first as it was taking up space in the workshop. Made up the mounting brackets for the Heater & a/c unit from CBS ,fitted behind the dash on the passenger side. A/c & heater hoses made & ready for fitting Main Wiring loom finished ,ready for testing before fitting,not much room once everything is in place so easier to check it before fitting in case any mods needed. Only practical place for mounting the fuse box is under the heater ,fortunately there is far more leg room than necessary, so will be hidden behind ally footrest,hinged for access. Getting the 'universal' pantograph wiper motor to work with the Ford switchgear was interesting,ended up with 4 (5 including intermittent) relays to get it all working correctly. Body off again so can finish off the fuel piping etc. And final nut/bolt check before fitting the body for what will hopefully be the last time Whilst the body's up,will sort out the mountings for the front side/indicator lights,not so easy with the body in place.
That is a LOT of crazing to sort out, at least you are doing a 'proper job' and digging it all out. I must admit I didn't go to the extent of wheel arch work you have, I just slapped a load of filler on the inside and smoothed it of and rounded it when dry, seems to have stayed there for 25 years but then I hit it and had to wack a bit more on.
Arches were quite simple, strip of glassfibre sheet glued in at each end and forming it's own natural curve,then just fill in the gaps Some rigid plastic air pipe fixed on the inside of the arch ,then glassed over forming a hollow glassfibre tube which should be less likely to flex. Along with the extra mounting points in the nose to the front subframe ,the body is well supported so hopefully no more cracks. All the major glassfibre work is done,so now lots of filling & sanding. In between coats of filler I'll get the pedalbox fitted & piped up...
Fantastic quality work. Very nice to see. Chassis mods look fantastic. Jag rear end always a good choice. I have put them under many things. I prefer the later X308 Jag rear ends these days but the older type is absolutely bullet proof and a huge choice of diff ratio's too.
Pedals look smart, much better than my Locost ones which I have modified and still need to do more to as my size 11 boots foul the neighboring pedal so I need to bend clutch and throttle out a bit as well as make a new throttle with a curve in so it clears a bias adjusting cable.
will look like this
Can't quite picture how that fits as it looks like the cylinders face backwards and under the feet?
looks like the cylinders face backwards and under the feet?
Yep that's right. Dunno about the vw footwell, but the shape of the cortina one means not enough room for a normal pedalbox unless it's very narrow and then the pedals are too close together. So had to go for a 'cockpit fit' type. Had to offset it towards the tunnel to get it forwards enough and have room for the throttle linkage and bias adjuster cable. Pedals are still to close (need shorter legs) so will have to mount the seat right back against the rear bulkhead. Talking of seats, tried some out at Stoneleigh from www.intatrim.co.uk Desided to go for the GT40 ones (when funds allow) Not cheap but very nice and will suit the car perfectly.
Ah, I see. I take it you will box over the cylinders with a heel rest so you will be feet up, a bit F1. The floor is the same foot print as the VW so it's the same tight space as well ad the 17.5" seat width. The Intratrim seats are nice, if not a bit, well, a lot pricey but very nice. I was lucky to get some of the last seats from MJ Exhausts for £150 plus £50 shipping to Spain some five years ago. Making great progress, look for more updates.
Screen out. Quite easy to remove without further damage, as it was only actually bonded in a couple of spots. Maybe the lack of bonding was partially responsible for the cracks up and down the sides ? Just need to remove what's left of the bonding material , then can get stuck in to rubbing it all down, ready for painting.
New bonnet is coming along nicely, although not without a few problems! 1...after the final coat of epoxy resin,left it overnight to harden,got in the workshop next day to find a horrible sticky mess! Not only had it not set,but had actually thinned out and turned Brown! After a bit of head scratching trying to figure out what went wrong,finally worked it out, Somehow I managed to use the wrong hardener,polyester instead of epoxy....DOH!!! dunce
Lots of rags and acetone got it cleaned up ok and I was able to finish it off.
Problem 2... Test fit the bonnet, nice 2-3mm gap between bonnet and body on one side, 20mm+ gap on the other, hmmm!! So, out with the disc cutter,slit down one side of the bonnet,some wedges to push the edge of the bonnet to where it should be,then glassfibre it all up...sorted.
Problem 3... Having decided on a 'flat' bonnet,more akin to the vw version, there is not a lot of clearance between the underside and the cam cover. With the foam core and strengthening ribs the bonnet is around 10mm thick at this point and is actually touching the cover when fully closed. Fortunately the body isn't fully bolted down at the front,so may be able to raise the nose slightly, which will also raise the front of the bonnet, although will probably have to cut down the reinforcing ribs to get enough room for some heat shielding.
Finally , the body not being symmetrical strikes again! The top of one wing is higher and curved different than the other,so bonnet is sitting slightly proud on one side, about 10mm , not a lot I can do about that without some major reshaping , so will have to leave as is. Also the different body curve means the headlight covers are at different angles , giving the appearance of one headlight being higher than the other at the top ,again something I'll have to live with. If anyone asks, i'll say it's to give a better beam pattern at night!
More rigid than original bonnet and about half the weight. Just final trimming and filling to do.