Both of the doors drop when you open them. The windows simply dont fit and wobble like very wobbly things - though I think this is partly because they seem to have been designed to be removed easily. Quick release windows as it were. The 'roof' isnt in great shape and the windscreen looks like it was laid on the front and silicone splurged around the edge. The whole of the interior needs revamping I think. The bonnet and boot are not actually attached as such. Petrol tank and in fact the fuel system appears to need somewhat of an overhaul. I gather it needs a fuel pressure regulator. Certainly it needs a throttle linkage and theres a few stray wires under the bonnet. Ive not acutally tried connecting the battery at this stage.
Probably all of this is small potatoes compared to the mechanicals - the condition of which I have yet to determine. I might try and have a closer look at it all at the weekend - didnt have much time after I got back on Saturday.
I think the next thing ill do is make a big list of things to do and take it from there
nice photos welcome to the land of "am I ever going to get this finished" lol
main thing I suppose are that these cars are simple mechanically to work on ... any fibreglass issues can be resolved with ... well .. more fibreglass .. the hood's going to take some work. not sure about the doors dropping but i'm sure theres a fix for it ... I'll jump in early here and say welcome again and ask as many questions as you like because theres always someone here who's been there and done that and worn out the t shirt
Fortunately a mate is in the sinking same boat as me as he paid for half of it..
Im certainly going to do something with the lump in the bonnet. At the very least I am of the opinion if theres a lump there should be a hole to at least let air in. Looks like the lump is to allow the oil filler to fit. Im wondering if I could somehow change this so that the filler fits more flush I could lose the lump anyway... im sure I can get a spare rocker cover to experiment with.
So we decided this weekend we would have a crack at getting it to start.
The guy i bought it from said it it needed a coil, fuel pressure regulator and carb linkage. So we figured we should just feed it fuel manually for now...
First off I needed to attach the plug leads (Which also need replacing). Did this and spun it over. Wasnt turning over especially quick - but it was turning.. (I checked the cam timing was correct before doing this and it all seems correct).
Figured out where TDC was and connected the leads accordingly.
Needless to say it didnt fire. So we checked the plug was sparking - which is wasn't. I think the of the wiring harness could do with replacing - maybe rather than trying to make it work with the existing loom just create a whole new one - theres not that much in the way of electrics - at least we would know what was when then. We will come back to that.
After some fiddling we finally seem to be getting a spark but still doesnt fire - doesnt even seem to try. Oh well... we shall come back to this next weekend maybe..
quite probably is wiring problems. I would also replace the spark plugs if you haven't done it already. when I first got my eagle I did manage to get it started, but it was running as rough as a badgers a@se changed the plugs and it made a huge difference.
Yeah - I didnt expect it to run smooth - but there wasnt a glimmer of life at all
Im deffo thinking bespoke wiring sounds better. Also the battery is in the boot - is this where it usually is - looks like you might could squeeze it in under the bonnet somewhere - remove the need for that mega long cable from back to front (which cant help I dont think - for cranking over)
Oh and theres no filter as such - just trumpet type things (which you cant quite see in the photo
yep the boots the normal place for the battery on the Ford based SS .. although I don't fancy the battery and the petrol tank being so close together. the "normal" gullwing SS shell has the tank in roughly the same place but there's a fibreglass bulkhead so the too are separated. meaning that the tank sits above the axle and isn't in the boot like yours .. it must be possible to move it to the front as you say. haven't seen anyone do it though
Difficult to see but is there enough room between the carb and the headlight bar for a battery box? Where it is now is fine and would be the normal 2+2 position but I would again invest £11.45 in a battery box (Ebay 281150865042) not only to protect the battery but avoid things dropping across the terminals etc. I have mine up front but there again, my engine is in the back. (Ebay 31045846078)
I would it leave there, but in a box, nice new thick cable up to the front, bigger battery, that looks like a little Mini 40ah one, too small and looks a bit old and tired anyway. I run a cable from the front to the rear and no problems.
Maybe. To be honest the other guy that's doing this with me is an electronics whizz (and I think actually a qualified auto electrician) - so I'll leave it to him. If we go for a new creating a bespoke wiring harness he is the one that'll be doing it. We have plenty other stuff we need to sort first anyway - we just wanted to hear it at least try to start What there's another one? I thought I was unique! Clean or replace plugs, get a spark, whack a battery on, Chuck some go-go juice down the carb, Fire it up
(Strong recommendation angel)I know at the moment you say you only have velocity stack on the Weber but for gawds sake at least get some gauzes over them, stops the car sucking in boy scouts and other roadside litter.
I have lots of faith in his electronic skills. ive known him for years -- hes the guy that has to fix my pintable electronics when it goes wrong
I certainly be doing something with the carbs - there's not a lot of room tween the carb and the inner wing - but will sort something. Things going into the carb is deffo not good !
Now if he could fix a Mercedes W168 A170 CDi auto gearbox ECU board with a duff lockout switch I have a job for him. I have to take a feed from the ignition switch to a relay stuffed in the battery compartment to the starter solenoid so it 'seems' like a normal key start but of course one can start it IN GEAR, not clever but beats 1,300€ for a new board as it only comes with the valve chest, what German prat decided to fit the lockout switch inside the gearbox instead of on it or at the lever, grrrr, .
Woohoo !! Finally got it to fire up. Theres a whole load of other stuff we need to do of course but we wanted to see if it would run before we made a real start on anything.. and finally start it did...
Oh for sure. Didnt' leave it running too long as the bottom rad hose is missing..
Followers seemed a little rattley, wasn't exactly smooth either, but i think the ignition system isnt in the best of shape.. so will probly replace it... Just wanted to see that it ran though really...
Our next mission (which we're going to have to choose to accept really) is to make a list of what the plan is.. Right at the top of that is finding somewhere to do whatever we do - as currently its sat on the driveway.. need a get a garage sorted. Ideally one that will allow for more than an average sized cat to be swung. (not that we plan to swing any cats you understand).