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Post by Peter on Jan 27, 2013 20:22:49 GMT
On the euro-nova forum there is a guy (roadster) who has just bought a un started 2+2 in good nick looking for a doner no doubt, anyone got any info on these cars, I believe there were only a few, maybe a dozen, made and as far as I know only 3 on the road as of last year.
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Post by Roadster on Jan 31, 2013 23:36:21 GMT
Hi Peter I found my way to the Eagle's board As Peter said i am about to start the build of this rare bird. I spoke to the previous owner today - he assures me the windscreen is unmarked and has been removed to save it. He also desribed the roof to be brand new and intact albeit in a beige colour. Also there are aluminum frames with sliding glass windows for the doors. Im looking forward to getting it back so i can evaluate what ive bought. I will update again soon
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Post by Peter on Feb 1, 2013 16:07:35 GMT
Welcome aboard the board, Anything you might want to know, just ask. The board seems quite but it like a duck, peaceful on the surface but behind the scenes we are all beavering away on our projects. There is a post, "so you want to build a kit car" under 'general' which you might find interesting but I gather it will be egg sucking mostly. I always say get the chassis 100% before even laying a hand on the body but I rarely take my own advice and I am still leaping under the SS to do things I should have done years ago, (still need to chop off the excess bolt length on the chassis/body bolts when I fitted down facing coach bolts to give a smooth carpet line). Just in case you want to keep this handy I'll run thought the Cavalier rear light thing. First chop out the whole rear light section from a Cavalier (plus about 1" all round). Cut a slot 1/2" down from rear top edge of the cars rear end, down as far as depth of light units and out to edges each side. Remove central reflector around number plate. cut metal behind number plate and install the two halves into the cut slot with the corners of the lenses level with the edge of the rear wing, you will need a little fettling to blend them in but not a lot. you will find the centre will over lap by about 4" in the centre. fix in place with glassfibre and blend in with filler if needed. Cut the outer ends off of the reflector where they meet the rear light lenses by about 1/4", (just the rounded end bits really). then divider the overlap by 2 and cut this amount plus the amount you cut off, (so 1/4" + 2" (1/2 overlap) =2 1/4". glue the rounded end bit back the reflectors to create a smooth round finish and fit to number plate area, job done. any way a picture paints a.....
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Post by Roadster on Feb 1, 2013 20:53:54 GMT
Can you register my car on the list its chassis plate says its 295 Thanks for the info on the cavalier lights i didnt know i needed the metal panel so im off to look for that. It looks great so it will be worth the effort. Im collecting the 15" Weller Steels tomorrow, im banding the rears to get width i need. But i dont know how wide to go. Your tyres are 255? Did you experiment first or did you choose the size because they look perfect?
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Post by Peter on Feb 1, 2013 23:42:40 GMT
I'm not sure if you can do without the metal, depends how good you are with fibre glass I guess. I just found it easier to work with one unit rather than try and cobble the rear lights in to the rear on their own as one would have to make recesses to the same shape as the Cavalier rear end. My wheel and tyre choice was two fold, fronts as the circumference was exactly right for the MG speedo with the cable speed off the front wheel being exactly double the MG gearbox speed so 8 lugs on the sensor instead of four. and with the 15" x 10" rears it was the only way to go really as all the weight is at the rear along with 100+ horses from the 1641 stage 3 lump. With a standard 1600 pushing 50 BHP one could use 225 rear and 205 front on 7"x 15 front and 8" x15 rear. I had pre 69 axles to start with until I found out the post '69 axles are 2 1/2" longer at the outer end so my original set up had the rear wheels well inside the arches so I took myself off to Midland Wheel Services and played with a few options and prices and came up with the moonlight monulars I have, in those days it was about £30 and £35 a corner, I then went to Milton Keynes Tyres for some boots and the Coopers came in at the right price and sizes. although they tell me they don't do the 255/65-15 anymore as it's a "dirty" size???
I'll put the car on the register certainly. The body number is sequential regardless of model (I was told) so it would be at the time of the MkII SS late 80s I'd guess. Just checked my info and Eagle cars left Lancing in 1988 so it's made between 1984 and 1988. Guess you will not be needing a new VIN plate as you have a very rare original one from the Lancing works there, You will need to STAMP the VW chassis and engine numbers on it though.
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Post by Ian on Mar 18, 2013 20:18:27 GMT
Hi, I have just purchased chassis number 295, Eagle 2 + 2 over the weekend. In a book I have it states that no VW Beetle based version was produced. Are you able to clarify this? This has come off a VW chassis which was kept as the seller want to build a beach buggy . It will be going back onto a Beetle chassis. I notice that there a couple more on the register. Do you know there chassis origins please? Is there any paperwork relevant to the +2 that would mention the use of donor parts and their origins?
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Post by Peter on Mar 19, 2013 9:55:30 GMT
Hi Ian, Welcome to the Eagle Owners Club Forum, (Please register fully so we know a bit about you), photos are VERY welcome so we can see your progress and there is a post on how to do it. The clubs aim is to help and encourage owners of all Eagle made kit cars to get them on the road and to see them at the various shows around the country, so we hope to see you at one in a year or three time when you have your 2+2 sorted. There is an article on here in general chat called "so you want to build a kit car?" worth a read, we hope you enjoy you visits here and please don't be afraid to ask ANY question you like, we have all been there, done that. See Roadster´s page on the Euro-Nova forum and as you can see it is certainly a VW version and he has posted quite a bit of literature too. www.euro-nova.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3600The optional box section ladder chassis produced by Eagle cars for the Ford Cortina running gear has the same footprint as the VW chassis but the body has a built in floor, dropped on the SS & 2+2 and flat-ish for the RV and 4x4. 265 refers to the KIT number rather than the chassis and were sequential regardless of model, (there was certainly never 265 2+2s made) on the Ford fit chassis it was riveted onto the chassis left front, on the VW it is of course on the tunnel behind the gear link access panel. What ever you do, check you are not required to take it through the SVA test but just a normal MoT, VW chassis is no problem as you use the donor cars reg number and you will need to change details to say "Eagle"or a car with a V5c already but a Ford chassis one without a V5c will certainly need a SVA. Do NOT buy a VW chassis unless it has a V5 and reg number. On the VW version one must of course use a torsion bar (TB) front suspension not a McPherson struts as on the 1302 &1303 beetles. Rear end, either swing arm, (post '69 is wider) or IRS as on the 1500 semi auto (rare beast indeed) and 1302/3, or you can change the frame head on a strut front for a TB front or convert a TB chassis to IRS with a kit, a 1302/3 gearbox and suspension set up and some hacking and welding. As far as engines go the most popular is the 1600 VW and one could stay standard at about 48bhp or you can go to 1641cc like mine (about 110bhp+ at 7,200rpm but at a cost of about 2,500 quid) without machining or up to just under 3 Ltrs with a lot of work and money. Conversion plates allow the fitting of almost any water cooled engine onto the VW gear box which (in later models) can handle about 130 bhp, Subaru, Alpha and Ford are popular and Rover 3.5 V8s have also been fitted but it does make the car a bit of a pig to drive with all that power and weight out back. On the Ford chassis anything goes in up front as long as you have the room and a prop shaft to fit (or made to fit). Seats are a problem due to the width available and the Bedford Rascal/Suzuki Carry etc ones are the best fit but the Chinese sport seats I use (and Roadster will be using ) are great value and fit nice and snug, standard sports seats such as Cobra, Caribou, Sparco etc are much wider than the 47cm maximum width available between tunnel and chassis side. Hope that helps a bit. Peter
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