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Post by Peter on Dec 2, 2013 17:05:31 GMT
Well I spent an afternoon trying different positions for the actuator and short of coming straight up off the floor with a two foot extension to the doors roof, not a lot to be done, it doesn't pull the door shut, in fact if it's too short (I trimmed a bit of the ball joint but had to put it back as it actually pulled the door back and up at the rear.
So I need to keep the VW Golf catches to make it secure (and legal) so next problem was I needed to send +12v to the latch solenoid as a 1 second pulse so this should do it. 12v from the 'open' voltage to the actuator trips this and sends 1 sec +v to the door so it unlocks prior to the actuator lifting the door up, I hope.
5V or 7~12V * Pulse Signal Relay Module On/Off Switch | eBay
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Post by Peter on Dec 2, 2013 19:55:34 GMT
Some times I over think myself, of course I don't need a flipping pulse relay, the moment the door gets the signal the actuator lifts the door and the contact to the door and therefore the solenoid is broken. dough!
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2013 17:13:44 GMT
I'm a bit guilty of overthinking things too. usually end up talking myself out of something
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Post by Peter on Dec 5, 2013 10:02:03 GMT
Researching gull wing doors I was surprised at the different systems used, mostly manual but no two seem to be the same. The one that has caught my eye is the Bricklin SV1 from 1974/5 just under 10,000 made in two years and some 1,600 known to have survived, (probably a lot of barn finds to be found). They have as OEM a pneumatic strut from behind the seats to the roof just short of the window top, originally pneumatic from an air reservoir, (top up by a small pressure switch operated 12v compressor on board I guess), many were changed to the slower, smoother but more reliable actuators. As the Bricklin doors were very heavy (90Lbs each) with side impact bars, electric wind down windows etc and the SS doors are less than a third of that I think my 600N rams will do the job if I can get the distances right, so I need to see where 8" stroke (Yeah I know, I should have worked it out before spending $200 on 8" rams but I have to go with what I have now), it will mean fitting the tops along the roof, I can then see what and where I need to do to fix the bottoms behind the seats 10" down from roof line. I like the new Mercedes but it's manual! I have seen similar 'in roof' designs using four Lenco tubular actuators but at 80 quid a pop and only 33lbs not a good idea but very near what I hade designed for the SSR (SS MkIV)
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Post by Peter on Dec 7, 2013 0:21:15 GMT
You Tube links, seems Proboards doesn't like long videos.
Took all afternoon but I finally have it working and locking down. Used the original door fixing on the body and made a temp one for the door which now I know works will be made longer to take the strain.
First one shows door opening and closing with automatic lights.
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Post by Peter on Dec 7, 2013 14:15:44 GMT
Still needs work, like the new longer brackets to spread the load and changing the tops for rose joints instead of ball joints. Would have loved to have hidden the bottom of the actuators in the rear window side panels but filler gets in the way on the left, still a thought for later now I know it all works, and works well.
Next idea is a Arduino voice recognition module, "Ignition", "start", "stop", "Lights", etc. Arduino VRM can take up to 15 commands and is secure so only I can say "ignition" and get it to work, (most times it seems).
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Post by biggles1 on Dec 8, 2013 10:48:57 GMT
Good work Peter. Those doors look as if they work great. Nice and smooth. I need to get myself motivated to do some more to the RV. I've just finished restoring a BSA Thunderbolt and it's now up for sale, so hopefully, I can get going on the Eagle again. I've not touched it for over a year.
John
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Post by Peter on Dec 8, 2013 15:32:47 GMT
Well I hope you do, we need to get some more Eagles on the road, 6 out of 1,200 is not so good. I couldn't touch my SS for three years and in that time all the work I had done in'99 was ruined so start again. I'm at the stage now where all the major stuff is done, chassis, brakes, electrics, body mods, and 75% of the interior so starting so turn the corner, see the light and generally feel like it's getting somewhere at last. Usually when at this stage is where things go wrong and people start 'fiddling' so I'm resisting the temptation to chuck half the wiring out and go for flashy speech recognition system, a bit too KITT anyway.
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Post by Peter on Dec 9, 2013 13:40:48 GMT
Whilst giving my 1987 Merc'. 190E a kickin' I saw the fuel tank was very similar to the Triumph 2000 MkII one I used so plenty of cheap decent capacity tanks to be had from the 190E and possibly the 220 series Merc Attachment Deleted
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Post by Peter on Dec 9, 2013 15:55:52 GMT
Not happy with the rear to front loom passing the handbrake and up the middle so I'm going to re-route it up the right side cavity and across to the dash. Vehicle wiring products did their usual screw up with the card transaction, why the hell they don't do PayPal I don't know, (and neither does the guy I spoke to when I hade to phone from Spain to place the order manually!) So a couple of meters of each 15 colours and all will be well in a week or so.
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Post by Peter on Dec 10, 2013 8:56:22 GMT
Every day is like Christmas morning at the moment, I have so much stuff in transit for the SS. apart from the actuator which was sent last night by DHL so will be here from Hong Kong on Friday I have the 8MM rose joints, 4 channel remote and a bunch of new 5 pole relays, I can hardly wait for 13.30 when my post lady arrives. Also ordered from Vehicle Wiring Products yesterday a couple of meters of wire of each colour for the rear to front loom and some connectors as I am going to relocate it up the right hand side, so I need to extend it a bit, didn't like it up the centre and gets in the way of the handbrake, also looks crap in the centre with all the wires from that and the centre console bunched up. Attachment Deleted
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Post by Peter on Dec 12, 2013 16:49:41 GMT
Been and gone and done it, chopped all the wires out from dash to rear lights and lost the water traps, multi-plugs so all one length again ready for the arrival next week of the 2m extensions from Vehicle Wiring Products. looks a lot neater already.
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Post by Peter on Dec 18, 2013 11:08:24 GMT
Second actuator and the remote relays have arrived so I hope to get to fit them in a day or two. Also bought a bunch of 5 pin relays as some of the ones I was using are a bit iffy, so all new, never hurts to have a couple spare as well. Attachment Deleted
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Post by Peter on Dec 26, 2013 13:27:16 GMT
All the new wiring and the 8mm rose joints arrived today so I'm off up the shed for a couple of hours and hopefully all day tomorrow.
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Post by Peter on Jan 12, 2014 10:35:11 GMT
Well I eventually got the remotes being on the same code sorted by soldering some of the tabs on the IC so it had a unique code on each remote/relay pair. As the 'inter-latching' relays work like a fan button where you press one and it switches that one on and the other three off I had to make a second bank of 5 pole relays and just connect the NO side from the relays unit to send a positive signal to each of the 5 pole relays and a diode between C to A and from D to B so A opens the drivers door and B closes it, C opens both doors,(C+A) and D closes both doors (D+B) as I didn't want to have to wait for the drivers door to open before I could open the passengers side. New loom is up the side and into the dash area and the front is also in the dash area so 'just' a matter of joining it all together now. I am also fitting multi-connectors for the instruments, switches and radio etc, so I can pull the dash and console as a unit without having to split it to disconnect the instruments as now, I can then make the centre console and the centre part of the dash as a single unit including speedo etc with just the side parts bolted on. Annual test time for the wife's Corsa bought about a problem, emissions too high and the daylight running lights I fitted in the grill have to be type approved to the car at a a cost of 150€, (for 12€ lights) , so they have to come off and bugger the extra safety they gave, I also had to slip off the smoked wind deflectors from the windows as they had to be clear, bureaucracy gone mad!. So anyone up on GM C14SE injection settings? (and no, it doesn't have a dirty EGR as it doesn't have one on this engine)
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Post by Peter on Jan 23, 2014 14:01:53 GMT
Finally getting there, the relays actually work, wow! Had a problem with the new 5 pole relays blowing fuses when I connected the power which was a mystery as there should be no connection between the NO & NC poles but there was, turned out the contacts inside (on all of them) were set too fine and touched, so I opened all the cases and opened the contacts up to 1mm and all is well. I fitted a diode between C & A and D & B so button A raises the drivers door only and B closes it as before but now C opens BOTH doors simultaneously and D closes BOTH doors. Figured either I wanted to get in and out solo or I had a passenger and we both needed a door. Just need to fit the up down dash switches by replacing the SM buttons on a 'spare' remote, it's a lot easier than hacking into the IC outputs on the relay PCB, a regulated resistor drops the cars voltage to 3V so I can also discard the 2032 button battery. The 'remote' centre brain compartmant Attachment DeletedJust need to finish the new wiring and then onto the dash and doors at last. Now, where was I? Attachment Deleted
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Post by Peter on Jan 30, 2014 15:22:44 GMT
Chinese 'spring holiday' has screwed things up a bit as most of the Chinese shops on Ebay are closed until 4th of Feb'. so a few bit of 'bling' will have to wait as well as the 'spare' 4 button remote I need to make the internal door opener work. Debating whether or not to fit a 'knight Rider LED bar between the front of the bonnet and the body where I have a 1cm gap or just to fill it in. I know it's a bit Chav' but I kinda like the idea. Work on the Door actuator top mounts came to a grinding halt when I ran out of cutting discs and there is no way I'm hack sawing all that 3mm stainless sheet. At least all the actuators work as they should now using the smaller temp brackets.
Still in two minds as what to do with the catches, I feel that although the actuators hold the door shut OK I still think a latch would be good too, just a matter of deciding what, I do not want to revert back to the original VW bonnet catches so it looks like a slight rethink on the VE Golf ones.
Anyway, off to the 'shed' in the morning having earned a load of brownie points fixing her mums flat hanging some pictures and fitting a ceramic heating panel for her. lotsa brownie points, should see me good through the weekend anyway.
Wife's Corsa continues to be a pain in the butt, cannot get the throttle position sensor to read the 0.42v it needs as a base reference unless I take it off and turn the internal by hand, so I had a look and the interface bar is missing from the slot in the throttle spindle, can't buy one so had to buy a whole throttle body on Ebay, lucky I found one in Israel for 28€ with both sensors inc shipping, result! I have managed to loose the codes for the Lambda and Air temp though.
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Post by Peter on Feb 4, 2014 9:29:49 GMT
Finally managed to clear all three fault codes on the wife's Corsa and ready for testing again BUT, darn MERCEDES A170 is playing up, again, low fluid in the auto box, (due to poor rebuild and leaking seal), meant no drive, so couldn't get out of the underground garage, 2L of correct ATF and all good BUT no power, end cover for the air filter had fallen off and was sitting on the gearbox! :ofound the pipe from the turbo to the inter-cooler was split so had to bodge that up and now it's as flat as a fart, no power, probably the EGR valve so I have ordered a blanking plate and I will clean the air flow sensor too. BMW E30 just needed a battery swap and I was off the the car place to complain about the two year old battery, still under three year warranty, will not hold a charge, " mate, no receipt, no warranty", But he said I could leave it and they would give it a "jolt and a four hour 'blast'" and see if they can resurrect it, we'll see. Not much on the SS front other than I made the upper brackets for the actuators but the fiber glass is too thin to fix to and they rip off when pulling shut so I will have to cut a slot in the hinge end of the door's roof rib and slide a 10mm x 20mmx 150mm slab in there with a couple of threaded holes to bolt through, I'll make the mounting holes slots too so I can adjust that a bit. The doors operate as I wanted but the battery has to be up to the 12v mark or the one side lags after the other but not a problem, considering a split charge relay and separate small 12v battery (only uses 7amps max) just for the doors and LEDS. Onwards and upwards
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Post by Peter on Feb 23, 2014 9:34:28 GMT
Well it seems I am not he only one to be in the Doldrums on their project. Things are very quite on the forums at the moment, not just us but Nova etc too. must be the weather although I don't have that excuse. BUT I do have a shed load of other stuff getting in the way. The wife's Corsa needed a lot work, changing the throttle body, new heater control panel bulbs (strip out), brake bulbs, ready for a retest next week. Mercedes A170 has blown the #1 injector seal so sounds like a tractor and it is a MAJOR job to change it but a couple of hours on Saturday had all the plastic crap and intake off of the head so I could see what was what and although it is not much of a blow it is noisy, the turbo has to be removed to enable the injector to be extracted, what bright idiot thought of that one? The inlet manifold pipes are thick (2mm) thick with sooty oily carbon so that is a plus to get those clean. Going to be a week though and in the meantime I don't have transport until I get the Corsa's insurance renewed.. Nice shiny alloy arrived yesterday for the upper actuator brackets, a slab of 50x 4 x300 and a 40 x 40 x 300 x 4 'T' extrusion, I am going to put the 50mm slab inside the rear of the door roof with M6 Riv-nuts and then the T will provide me with the mountings for the rose joints, current bracket is just ripping out the pop rivets when it pulls the door down tight as the GRP is not very thick there. By having 500 wide inside and 40mm outside I avoid having a shear line. My MK808II Android IPTV box arrived (with a 25€ tax bill, bastards!) and now I'm setting up XBMC and all the good stuff like live TV streaming, films, etc. but I must get over to the shed and get some work done. Looks like I will not make it to Stoneleigh again as the wife is working shifts all weekend, I thought she had two days off but nope. Still, next year. Attachment Deleted
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Post by E.O.C. Administrator on Mar 9, 2014 12:11:15 GMT
Just seen these on Ebay by Maxton Design in ABS only 79.00 for the four part kit and fits all cars under 95" wheel base, SS and Nova is 94.5 so jut in. The rear 'flair' seems to match the rear of the SS perfectly. Seriously thinking of it. I know I still need to finish the interior and door cards etc and complete the wiring upgrade but definitely on my shopping list. Also looking at a rear spoiler and a rear defuser to hide the exhaust header. Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted
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Post by Peter on Mar 13, 2014 14:36:31 GMT
Trying to get some work done on the SS, I know I should just leave home for a week and camp out in the garage 25 miles away and get it done but 'er in doors would get a bit pissed off with that, dogs an' all. Started to make the heavy alloy brackets for the tops of the actuators, thank heaven for electric sabre saws, buzzed though the 4mm alloy like butter. Still have the new wiring harness from the rear hanging about in the dash area so I really should be doing that first, but... Most of the stuff except the carbon fiber for the bonnet and boot are to hand now and I have decided that if, the paint still looks rubbish after I have air brushed over the damaged bits of gel coat(and I'm sure it will),I will go for black/blue metallic, next year, maybe. Also looking to see how I can loose most if not all of the nuts that fix the door hinges in place so I get a flatter headlining, possibly weld nuts to the hinges instead of the bolt heads and use countersunk mate countersunk allen screws from inside. I also had a brain wave when driving my BMW E30, the first 6" of the roof lining is a solid plastic piece right across the front with the warning lights in and I am looking at making a fiber glass version to fit the SS so I can fit sun visors etc and then the normal off-white headlining will go from that to the back window, (and small panels on the door roofs).
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Post by Peter on Mar 15, 2014 19:15:44 GMT
I think I may be the first to use the new Tapatalk mobile E O C forum. Yeah, it works.:-)
Sent from my LG-E730 using Tapatalk 2
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Post by Peter on Mar 18, 2014 14:52:18 GMT
Finally got the wife's Cora Sport through the test, got the emissions down to 0.48 after the tester, did some Italian tuning. result!
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Post by Peter on Mar 19, 2014 10:02:39 GMT
Not good news.
Dear Mr. Lee, Directive 2007/46/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 5 September 2007 establishes a framework for the approval of motor vehicles and their trailers, and of systems, components and separate technical units intended for such vehicles (the Directive). Under this Directive, in order to register a vehicle it is necessary to provide the national competent authorities with a certificate of conformity. Such certificates are issued by the producer of the vehivle. In your case, the problem lies in that the trailer was bought more than 20 years ago and it first circulated in the UK, so it has not a certificate of conformity (which were first issued in 1996). Therefore, if you want to register your vehicle in Spain, first you will have to ask for it to pass an individual approval procedure in Spain in order to obtain a certificate in conformity. This means a procedure whereby a Member State certifies that a particular vehicle, whether unique or not, satisfies the relevant national and EU administrative provisions and technical requirements; The formalities for such procedure have not been yet fully harmonised at Community level. In order to obtain more information on the relevant formalities please contact the Spanish competent authorities:
So I said;
Dear Sir /Madam, So this means that although the car was built well before the directive and 'certificates of conformity' it would still have to comply with the current inspection regulations and standards? This seems a bit unfair to say the least, to get what is basicly a 1966 VW beetle up to 2014 standard, with no chance of passing, just because I have to change the country of registration in order to comply with another directive and the Spanish regulations. Regards, Peter G. lee
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Post by Deleted on Mar 21, 2014 17:21:48 GMT
thats a bit bollocks
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Post by Peter on Mar 22, 2014 9:38:30 GMT
The great part is I went to the local, nice new, shiny ITV station and even after I showed then all my documents and photos of the car and the certificate of newness from Eagle cars, (Blanks available on the web site), receipt for the S/H chassis and the recon 1600 engine they were in total confusion as to what was required, where and even IF I needed the equivalent of the SVA as it was already registered. The very concept of a kit car or individual cars here is alien to them as they just buy a suitable euro-box and maybe flash it up a bit if they are under 20. The worst case scenario is I have to have the car trailered to MADRID and have a SVA which doesn't cost the UK price of 450 pounds, (540€) but 1.500,00€ (1,255.00 pounds) there is NO manual, only the engineers opinion if it is safe or not. Best case is they GIVE UP trying to unravel the regulations and just let me have it done for 150€ (126 pounds) special test here or Malaga, an hour away. Whilst in the UK there are a few insurance companies they are after your business for 130 pound fully comp', here I am finding it very hard finding a company that will even look at it for RTA only.
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Post by scooby on Mar 24, 2014 14:13:49 GMT
The worst part is that they called your lovely car a 'trailer'...
Cough.
I reckon there's a very good chance there's 'someone' in that country of yours who is familiar with what to do. Even in the UK not every member of that department of the DVLA is familiar with these procedures, which is why in the hay-day of the kit-car industry, cars were often given a Q plate instead of the original reg purely on the 'say' of the person you took it to. (I still remember my chagrin when my Dutton - which according to the DVLA's own points system at the time was more Escort than Dutton - was still given a Q plate. When I started to try and 'discuss' this matter, you could see the guy bristling - he wasn't going to allow a li'l upstart to undermine him...)
You need an equivalent of 'Neville King' (I think he is). He's based (or was) in Truro, I think, and came up to visit me when I was trying to re-reg my NG Henley from being a 'Sierra Convertible'... He wasn't going to bend any rules, but he was a thoroughly decent fellow who took the time to look at all the evidence. And he gave me the original car's reg as well as a V5 with 'Henley' on it...
Are there any kit-car websites based in Spain, or any K-C forums? There must be lots of kits registered in that country?! I think I'd start there - get in touch with as many K-C owners as you can and find out how they managed the reg process. You might find a particular 'DVLA' office in that country who knows the system. And is sympathetic.
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Post by Peter on Mar 24, 2014 19:36:27 GMT
Basically the difference between the UK and most other countries is in the UK unless there is a law prohibiting it you can do what you like, in other countries you can't do anything unless there is a law allowing it.
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Post by Peter on Mar 25, 2014 11:36:51 GMT
Just recived this from the experts: not happy at all. "Nowadays it is impossible to register a “KIT” car in the EU, except UK. UK is the only country where quite everything can be registered as long as it has wheels.(subject to SVA)
Cars that were registered in an EU country without COC or European homologation can still continue this registration in the same country as originally registered, but these cars cannot be registered in another EU country.
Part of the COC or EU homologation includes that the holder of the homologation must manufacture or built the cars in specific agreed/audited, place/factory.
There is a possibility to register a Kit car or other non-homologated car in the EU : You have to present your car for inspection to receive a single homologation in a specialized homologation station. Spain: INTA-Madrid, Barcelona IDIADA.
The price of 1.200€ +VAT is a normal price and even on the lower side.
But, it has no sense to present your car if the car do not comply with the actual regulations.
Ask first for the list of compliance, but I am afraid (1999) you will realize that it is a “Mission impossible”.Mind you, same guy said that "the easiest way was to drive on UK plates", but that's not legal as I am a resident.
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Post by Peter on Mar 26, 2014 15:45:44 GMT
There is light at the end of the tunnel, very feint and not a guy with a torch coming the other way. A company in Tortosa, North of Valencia, says he can get Ukhozi though the registration change, I just need to find out how much that is going tp cost as I know the engineers report can be as much as 1,500€ plus transport 921 Km plus ITV (MoT), plus tax, registration fee, his fee etc, could add to over 2,500.00€ and that is a chunk of change in anyone's book. 450 quid for a SVA, chicken feed!
Chris Dann carimportinspain.com Calle Martirs no 6 43500 Tortosa Tarragona
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