Nice! I like that. Going to be stealing some idea from here Does the bent screen at the top cause any reflection problems?
Not if you bend it right. I clamped the lower 2cm between plywood in a vice then gently applied a heat gun over the whole central area before pushing the top back with another piece of ply to get the correct curve then just hang one until it cools. Top edge has another piece super glued under it to fit under the black top, the top 6cm will be blacked out from the back and a 1cm black 'edge' applied to the top edge, the bottom fits behind the alloy cross piece that also holds the sides in place. When the two halves finally met as a unit I spotted the difference straight away, the top red sides are wider than the main console so the chrome strips don't line up, I am going to add about 3mm width to the inner part of lower red side part, about 4cm, to take it to the same width as the top. I had to buy some longer 4mm allen screws on the gearshift ring as they hold the two halves together. I also have to fit the bracket to the rear section which then holds it rigid and change the rear of the three bolts holding the top onto the gear shift lever for a stud and long nut so I can fix the front of the rear part, then the bracket holding the top of the console has to be altered as it doesn't fit the slimmer console. apart from that all done. Talk about one thing leading to another.
Note, I was only able to get this layout because the gearshift is nearly a foot further back in the handbrake position and I could only move the handbrake by using a Volvo one on top of the tunnel, yep, one thing does lead to another.
Heat not withstanding, it was very hot and my garage is underground, phew! . had to remove the steering column as it was sloppy, circlip had popped out of the groove so I cut it deeper and job's a good 'un. Whilst it was out I shortened the huge loop of AN piping I had from the throttle pedal to the pipe in the tunnel to a reasonable length. De-seized the carb' end piston and overhauled the hydraulic piston and spring unit as well, wishing all the time I had used a cable set up. Now home and two hours gone and I'm very much in need of a hot shower and a cold beer. cheers.
Another couple or three hours in 'the shed', this time attention was on the throttle, the carb' end `piston was still sticking which would make putting my foot down interesting to say the least as the dual carbs suddenly popped full open, so I scrapped the whole system and decided to return to cable again. One job I was not looking forward to was pulling the 2 meters of brake line out of the throttle cable tube in the chassis as it had been a pig to put in but with a short length of cable tied around it and the other end on the Mercedes tow hitch it came out no problem. Managed to get the throttle pedal off the bracket assemble and out without any bother and cut off the foot pad, welded up the hole for the hydraulic fitting and welded a 'L' shaped flat bar to the pedal that now passes near the tunnel just in front of the cable exit to take the cable Z fitting, (photos to follow asap). Why did I grind off the foot pad? I wanted a roller pedal, the answer came from Ebay as usual in the shape of an off-white skate board wheel for about a fiver so a 8mm allen bolt and nylock nut and it will be a good 'un. VW T1 throttle cable on Ebay for a tenner and a bit of outer cable from the bits bin and I will make a roller end fitting for it as seen on, yep, Ebay but I'm not paying 44 quid for it, I'll make my own. Basically a block that bolts through the firewall takes the outer cable in the front and passes the inner cable over a small roller on the engine side so it can go 90 degrees to the carb linkage, that will complete the job, something like, just need to figure out the cable fitting to the carb linkage, probably keep it simple with a clevis and nipple fitting rather than a ball joint as now. More from the 'shed' soon.
The roller throttle came to mind when I was sitting in the car and discovered the 'none slip' surface of the pedals was sanding away the underside of my Crocs and yes, much nicer to use. The roller cable tube is a good idea and looks well made but me being me I like to make life hard and make my own, anyway I have a 90 degree angle to go and I think my design would be better at it, much the same with the roller in a block but the incoming tube will be a M12 stud with a 6m hole up it, opening to 10mm for the outer cable from the chassis to sit in it. A nut will hold it to the fire wall. using the linkage across the rear I just need to hook the cable to the lever with a clevis and nipple set up although for a smoother feel I am considering a 3" pulley attached to the lever. Something like this
After kicking the pulley idea around on the Stirling forum with Leterman7 I am now thinking an all pulley system might be better. so.... anyone know of a pair of 2" to 3" throttle pulleys, (preferably two nipple type), anywhere?
Fowardmetals on Ebay will slice me 4 8mm discs in alloy for £1.40 each inc VAT plus a slab of 1/4" for the brackets. can't say enough about this guy David, answered my question on a SUNDAY within a couple of hours and has been over the top helpful, I would say if anyone wants some alloy or steel get in touch, they are great! tinyurl.com/kr5yrhn
Did a quick sketch and it seems to work out. Bit of old school skills and a day in the 'shed' should see it done.
I managed to get some Eagle time in whilst sorting out son's 525 beamer, anyone would think it was a Rolls Royce the way he goes after every little noise and creak. Pedantic springs to mind.
Anyway front sidelight/indicator/fog light units are in and working at last so now I can concentrate on the rest of the wiring tidy up. I am quite pleased with the way they fit in, not quite 100% the same curve as the nose but near enough, even for me.
Throttle cable was here when I got home so as son wants another session of super quite BMW tomorrow I can get that fitted ready for the `pulley throttle system and the 60mm stainless jubilee clips for the tailpipe trims too..
All wired up , they will see me coming for sure Two different units, one on top of the other, one 9 x LEDs BRIGHT on the bottom row for the fogs and above one row of 9 LEDs plus 9 amber LEDs for side / indicators (3 wires)
No, I'm not planning to stick these on the front of my RV, but I am very curious about them all the same
These are combined LED lamps? How does this work - is each one multi-colour, or do only a few of the right colour light up as required?
Two types; Lower row is 9 LEDs for side lights and 9 amber surface mounted ones for indicators, (three wires), so four way connector, (Earth, indicator, side, fog). upper row is 9 BRIGHT LEDs for the fog lights. they actually fit in the other way up. In the 'gills' are two rows of 9 LEDs each side for DRLs via relay that switches them off when the headlight comes on.
If you search Ebay for "daylight running lights" and side light indicators" it all comes up, there are several different designs. I thoroughly recommend DRLs as a safety measure, too many SMIDSYs .
Jose Carlos, El step-son, did it again which really buggered up my Eagle time just as I was getting the underside finished so I get it off the trailer this week , He managed to knacker his BMW 525 ignition lock, result of having way too many keys swinging on it, told him for the past three years to take them off, did he? no, so know it's 190€, thank you. I spent ages trying to get the cylinder out after removing the lock part, in the end I managed to jam the steering lock open and get the switch off of the back so we could drive it onto a breakdown truck.
Still managed to get all the front end lights working and relay in for the DRLs and throttle cable run and outer in place, had to cut a bit out of the tunnel cover but thank heaven I have an osculating saw. Red 60cm LED strips arrived for the doors but it will be a while before I get them under way. But, a bit more done.