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Post by Peter on Feb 7, 2018 12:54:10 GMT
Although I have not been able to do much lately, - the old, "Have time, no money, have money, no time", syndrome strikes again. I am at a stage where with one additional wire for an ACC feed to the radio so I can have that on switched by the proximity relay along with the Ignition/start button, I just need to finish the dash sides and the door panels. mechanically the only problem are the brakes where the rear master has jammed in and the front master will not move at all, so off with it all and sort that out, I may up the size of the front cylinder (Land Rover clutch) as it has to pump the 8 pistons on the Wilwoods not the 4 of the Mazda RX calipers I had. The doors work, as can be seen on You tube, 7 seconds up and down but I am not happy with them as the whole door twists and maybe I can do a radical rethink on them and go for 'T' top roof sections and 'Lambo' or 'Enzo' door combo'.
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Post by Peter on Mar 8, 2018 13:43:40 GMT
So where am I at the moment? Having just got over the 'killer' flu which dammed near saw me off I am back and plodding on. I did the ACC wire for the radio so just the blue LED and buzzer for the proximity switch to build in and the console can be fitted finally. The two tiny 'blind spot' cameras that sit behind the door openings work but the only place to put the 4" screen is in front of the steering wheel. The right hand side pod of the dash is OK and can be fitted but the left side will need an aperture 8" x 3" made, not too difficult but it will have to be in front of the duct pipe as I don't fancy changing all that. I will place a switch for the monitors in the small space to the right of the steering wheel below the centre line trim so I can turn them on or off. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedAttachment DeletedHaving decided that a front wheel ABS ring is the best way to send the correct pulses to the Astra GTe digi-dash I just need to get the correct number of pulses sorted. Every time I ask on a forum for the Corsa I get conflicting advise and most people go on about the switches on the speedo for differ size wheels and the different transponder in the gear box, none of which is relevant as I just need to know "how many pulses reach the speedo every mile at 60 MPH", I can then engineer that into the number of teeth at 740 wheel revs per mile. i.e. 15000 Pulses Per Mile / 740 wheel revs Per Mile = 20 pulses (teeth) per rev. The nearest so far is the later transponder does 6 pulses per rev and two revs per wheel rev so 12 pulses per wheel rev (8880), but that is on a 175/65-13" wheel and I have 15" (235/60-15) ?? Or I will have to fit my drill with a disc and a strobe strip for my strobe rev' counter and set it at 740RPM connected to the speedo and add 'teeth until I get 60 mph on the clock. but I need a starting point.
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Post by trike on Mar 9, 2018 10:15:39 GMT
What about one of the companies that specialise in OE digi dash repairs,they should know how many pulses in order to bench test and re-calibrate them.
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Post by Peter on Mar 11, 2018 11:51:18 GMT
What about one of the companies that specialise in OE digi dash repairs,they should know how many pulses in order to bench test and re-calibrate them. Tried a couple and as I wasn't a "customer" AKA paying any cash, they were not very helpful.
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Post by Peter on Mar 20, 2018 13:16:59 GMT
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Post by Peter on Mar 30, 2018 12:33:14 GMT
WARNING! Anyone with polyurethane gearbox mounts that are a few years old. I was under the car the other day checking the starter relays and noticed some red plastic crumbs, on closer inspection I found all three of the red polyurethane gearbox mounts had crumbled away with very little holding the engine/gearbox in the chassis. I will have a look at the front tubes bushes and anti-roll bar next. A new set of OEM mounts called for.
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Post by Peter on Apr 2, 2018 13:10:40 GMT
Just found a thread on another forum that says the Astra speedo has 12,000 pulses per mile. so now all I have to do is figure out how many teeth I need. So 12,000 PPM on on 225/60R15 = 787 revs per mile, is 15.25 On 15.5 on 235-60R15 at 773RPM. Either way 15 teeth and a pulse compensateor for 25 quid. The Astra AH transponder is 16 pulses per wheel rev, 8 magnets x 2 per wheel rev. so near enough.
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Post by terryrob on Apr 8, 2018 17:45:06 GMT
I have a headache just reading all those calcs lol, Although I did do similar calcs working out diff ratio's via engine revs, gear ratios and wheel diameters, interesting when you get into it.
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Post by Peter on May 4, 2018 22:43:43 GMT
What have I been up to lately? Nothing! Tried working full time in a garage but crippled myself, so much pain you wouldn't believe it, only changed the clutch and a couple of cylinder heads in classic mini's and a steering rack and column but I can hardly move. I think at 72 I should give up the idea of trying to be a garage mechanic. it's a younger mans game, anyway I am too big, even after loosing 40Lbs, to get under the dash of most modern cars, let alone a mini. So lots of Eagle time one would think but no, I still have to earn something, somehow, as the UK pension is pathetic and at under 700 a month just pays the rent. When I have the time, no money. When I have the money, no time.
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Post by Peter on May 6, 2018 13:31:30 GMT
Well, I tried folks. Working full time in a garage didn't work out, after a week during which time I changed 2 cylinder heads, a clutch (in chassis) a steering rack and column, did some electrical work and part reassembled a Mini Moke after painting I could hardly move and I am still in pain three days later. too old, too slow, so off I go. I wonder what the hell I can do that will not kill me as the UK OAP is pathetic, lowest in the developed world, so I have to work till I drop it seems.
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Post by Peter on Jun 29, 2018 10:05:24 GMT
Despite a couple of recent trips to the garage I have spent that time rebuilding my Suzuki An400 engine and getting it back in the frame, gawd it is heavy.
Work on the SS has been limited as a result but I have managed to test the battery, knackered, so needs a new one, well, it is ten years old and has gone dead more times than I can think.
Starter relay has been fixed but only clicking due to dead battery but at least I know the circuit is good.
I have ordered the very fine three way cable for the speedo sensor and sorted out the sensor from it's hiding place, like so many things I have put in a "safe place" I couldn't find the two I knew I had. All I need to do know it take the front left wheel off and brake and mount the sensor and a toothed disc. That's 'all'.
Another week of 'handyman' work, must get some cash from somewhere so out with the DIY tool box again.
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Post by Peter on Jul 8, 2018 19:26:42 GMT
Finally got around to removing the front left wheel and taking out the VW to Smith's speedo cable so I can fit the sensor for the digi-dash from the Astra GTe, I was thinking of a bracket on the caliper mount but as it happens there is a hole in the front of the upright where the disc shield fitted so out with a 12mm bit and perfect job. Just need to make a disc with an internal size to fit the hub and 25 teeth and screw it to the four ribs on the hub. Sensor installed Bracket for the radial caliper, the 10mm stainless steel allen bolts go right into the alloy, the centre one all the way through. The front hub conveniently has four ribs to which I can fix the 25 tooth 14.5 0 ring.
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Post by Peter on Jul 9, 2018 18:02:46 GMT
Bit more done. at last.
Took the pedal box off and found the the two 3/4" masters for the front and rear brakes seized solid, after a liberal dose of lib' they cam apart and as I suspected after all this time the bores were scored and the seals rock hard, so I am hoping a seal kit for the rears and I am thinking of going bigger for the fronts as I have upgraded the calipers to 4 pot Wilwoods.I will have to calculate the capacity of the two systems.
Also 'reformed' the clutch pedal 1" to the left for more room and welded an extra piece to the back of the throttle pedal ready to make that a curved one to clear the cable for the bias control so I will have a dash mounted knob to adjust the brake bias. It meant stripping the bias assembly so I could drill a 3mm hole in the end and then a 4mm grub screw to secure what was the Speedo cable.
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Post by Peter on Jul 14, 2018 13:44:12 GMT
Got a LOT more done, finally got the brakes sorted. Stripped the masters and polished them up and reassembled. better than new. Rebuilt but with clutch bent reformed to the left and the throttle to the right a bit there is room for my size 10 boots at last. Also welded a chunk on t he back of the throttle and cut out so the bias control cable clears, Just need to make the knob part as I have the old speedo cable to use. saves my 45€. Plan A on the disc for the speedo is to use a 90mm x 3mm plastic disc with 25 5mm x 3mm magnets fitted into it and a 1mm cover either side to make a sealed unit then fix that to the hub with 4 x 4mm countersunk screws. Bias adjuster drilled for speedo cable and with a 4mm grub screw, Bias cable fitted Spaced out pedals Yes it does clear with brake fully depressed and throttle fully up, took three goes but got there in the end.
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Post by Peter on Jul 19, 2018 10:05:37 GMT
Another good day in the 'shed. Got the pedal box back in the SS and all pipped up ready for when I remember to buy some 'DOT 4' fluid, (as well as a new battery). Back in and hooked up. Why is it such a pig getting the nuts back in the cylinders without cross threading? Started on door cards, plan 'A' is to have a hardboard panel (as in many 'older' cars) and add 3D foam to it and then cover in brown packing tape then coat with a couple of layers of fiber glass mat when set cover with 3mm foam and then trim in cloth/leather. well , that's plan 'A' anyway. Doesn't have to be super smooth as some who are, unlike myself, good with GRP, I hate the stuff as it will be covered by 3mm of MD (packing)foam. Electrics all done apart from I am still waiting for the postman to deliver the fine 3 way cable for the speedo so I can hook it up into the central connection panel, (I already have the sensor fitted and 3 way waterproof connector), and then I can get serious about installing the console permanently at last. As you can see, there is plenty of room between the caliper bracket and thehub ribs where the disc will fit. Slightly old version but only the auto start relay has been changed for the push button control box. Having ordered 25 5mm x 3mm magnets for the speedo sensor I found I already had 25 slightly larger ones stuck to my tool box but I think slightly too wide for what I need as in the past I have found smaller magnets with a larger gap gave a better 'reading' to the speedo.
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Post by Peter on Jul 22, 2018 12:03:13 GMT
Pedal all done and hooked up. ready to fill and bleed as soon as I remember to buy some DOT4. Postman delivered the fine 3 core cable and magnets for the speedo Friday so next week I hope I can get the electrics finalised. Bit of painting to do for a client will get in the way but every bit helps. Next trick is to make the speedo disc so I can get the wheel back on.
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Post by Peter on Jul 23, 2018 10:54:50 GMT
"Onward and sideways", as I say. A couple of points worth mentioning that may be of interest to those of us who have been slogging away for years, (decades? ) Petrol does not last for ever, it goes off quite quickly and takes on that horrible sweet smell and eventually gels and clogs, so if you know you are not going to be starting it up for a while, drain it all off including carburetor, pump and filter and when ready, refill with fresh. Also brake fluid, same thing, I filled my system with new DOT4 three years ago (I think it was) and when I had to drain it all out to do the pedals last week it was more like thin oil. I have to refill with fresh anyway, and remember brake fluid is hydrsscopic (attracts water) so keep sealed and never reuse. Somethings happen when we should really have checked, case in question, my BMW E30. The poor old thing boiled up last Friday and I had to drive home with the heater on full blast and the windows open (in 32 Degree). Turned out the engine mounting rubbers had parted company with the end plates and the engine was just sitting on the rubber blocks, the stupid thing was I had a pair of new ones in the boot but had forgot to fit them. The engine moved forward on braking and the fan jammed on the bottom of the shroud so it stopped as the viscous coupling slips. Stripped out radiator and replaced coupling anyway and new mounts and hopefully no damage.
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Post by Peter on Jul 29, 2018 13:39:51 GMT
Reality overtakes Photoshop at last. After eventually finding the old discoloured `polycarb' side window I managed to turn my drill into a lathe again and turn up a 10cm disc and then cut out the 64nn hole, drill 25 evenly spaced 5mm holes and sink in the magnets. Then drill and tap 5mm into the four posts on the hub and modify some countersunk Allen screws I had left over from the earlier filler cap installation. Job is a good 'un. Attachment DeletedAttachment DeletedThe sensor connector is done and fix by a SS bracket to the brake line support, I have secured the wire to the hole where the dpeedo cable was so it is central to the pivot and reduces the movement. Attachment Deleted
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Post by Gary on Jul 29, 2018 20:09:21 GMT
Nice job as usual
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Post by Peter on Aug 16, 2018 11:33:10 GMT
Disc has been set on to hub and sensor adjusted and it all works, Next trick, remove other front wheel and fill and bleed braking system. I bleeding hate bleeding the bleeding brakes.
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Post by Peter on Sept 2, 2018 12:11:48 GMT
NOTHING on the SS front at the moment. I wish I could make half the progress some are on the forums and they probably wishes they was doing more I am sure. But on the SS front I have definitely completed the speedo sensor and magnetic disc, popped the disc on and clearance is spot on at 0.5mm. Just need to pop the caliper back on, bleed and wheel on. (boss has just bought 20L of DOT4, yeah!) Door panels are in the embryo stage but I am sure will never get to proffesional standard and as I'm not making molds I will just lay up 2 x matt over with brown packing tape and cover finished panel in foam and trim. Dash wise, after I managed to get all three parts located where they should be along the screen base and at the door openings, the alloy trim bands either side of the center are wrong, the right one slopes down by 40mm towards the gear shift so I need to un-trim it, cut a wedge off and re-trim, no big deal, just annoying. Also having 20mm across the console beneath the speedo and 15mm across the side pods doesn't look good so need to make wider 20mm trim strips on the pods as reducing the center one isn't an option as it covers the joint to the speedo screen and has an 8mm knob in it for the speedo trip reset and KM/MPH switch. Little things take so much fracking time!
Work wise, (which means, money, no SS time) The buggy owners policy of drive them till they drop, is biting him in the butt and it came as quite a shock to him that the expensive drive belt on the CVT needs replacing every 3,000 Km (two have literally 'blown up' into fiber strands and chunks of toothed rubber). Also the oil, filter, diff' oils, etc etc, 39 points in all, every 3K. currently at 10K and not a service logged yet, other than engine oil and filters (but no air filters, just blown out) but I am making ground and he has asked for all diff' oils to be changed and valves checked and Optiflow or Twin-Air filters ordered.
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Post by Peter on Oct 14, 2018 14:18:32 GMT
Not a lot done but some.
Managed to dry out the 'shed' after 1" of water flooded in during a downpour.
New battery fitted after ten years, engine turned over for a minuet or two, just to keep thing wet inside.
Wires for speedo run to the connection board.
Center console removed and trimmed for a better fit at screen and top moved back a bit for better shade also new trim between speedo and radio that better matches side pods. Just need to make right hand under pad and the little bit between steering and center which will hold the brake bias control knob, when I have made it that is.
Trial area of paint over left scoop and wing in deep black acrylic has proven to be very tough and shiny so I will be doing the rest in that when the time comes.
Next 'little job' will be the door sill panels in stainless steel, metal to hand, as are the cardboard templates, just need to get those 'couple of little jobs' done that always seem to pop up and get in the way of the next stage and of course, after so long in the build there are things popping up that need to be redone, like the brake fluid, rust to be treated etc.
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Post by Peter on Oct 17, 2018 10:37:59 GMT
Another day in the 'shed', and a bit more done, baby steps indeed. I set the speedo sensor a little closer to the disc and locked it up. Made a new under part for the right dash pod, Styrofoam and double sided tape sandwich covered in gaffer tape. light and very strong. Couldn't find some red leatherette I 'knew' I had so used black instead only to find the red a minuet after I had finished so need to redo that next rather than redo the left side in black. Finally connected up the speedo wiring so all connections done apart from the two 'blind spot' cameras which needs a switch for left or right so I can use the radio camera input instead of two 4" monitors. need to buy a on-off-on switch. Next 'big' job is the brake bias adjustment cable knob, I have the cable and the bias adjuster all done, just need to make up the knob part, turning out to be more difficult than I thought, just getting the 2" red knob is not easy as I thought, most are too small. I made the small 'box' to fit between the steering and the center only to rediscover the center slopes in at the bottom so need to remake that, luckily it is in alloy so easy to cut and shape. DISASTER! A cut appeared in the right seat bolster of the drivers seat, the red 'carbon fiber' look bolster has a 2" cut across it, I may have to remove the seat and strip the cushion off to repair it from behind. What was that? One step forward, two steps back. Anyway, some progress, that's important.
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Post by Peter on Oct 28, 2018 12:45:48 GMT
I had the pleasure of my daughter and family down for a few days from Cheltenham, I only see then once a year, if that, so a very nice time. My grandson who is 14 and as tall as me already and my 9 year old granddaughter is as cute as ever but smart as a button, I only wish I could live in the UK but the weather would kill me, so I stay here in the warmer climes and have to put up with it. Some little things on the SS such as tidying up here and there, checking new battery etc but big job was drying out 6 gallons of flood water from the back of the 'shed' after water overran the drains, it was a monsoon for two hours and caused a lot of damage in the Malaga/Marbella area I also had a 'chuck out' session, all the old stuff lying around that I know I will never use (but of course will want the minuet its gone), either went into a box to sell at the boot sale or in the trash, I can actually see under the car now, or rather the trailer. Bolted the drivers seat in only to find that cut in the right seat bolster , Passengers side will have alloy checker plate floor replaced and seat bolted in as soon as the center console goes in for the last time (subject to all electrics working of course ) as I still need the 3" foam mattress to sit on to work on the electrics for now . Getting a bit busy on the 'My Ladies' front, I do a small job for one lady and I now have 6 ladies with small car or house jobs. Polishing headlight covers (plastic) for the annual test is the latest fad, sun makes them all cloudy and that is a fail. I buy a kit for 20€ and charge 85€, not bad for a morning work. Anyway, Sunday chores are calling or rather 'er in doors is, so LATER.
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Post by Peter on Dec 26, 2018 15:03:03 GMT
Blimey! Been over a month with nothing much done on the car. Finally after ten years of looking at it, have filled and blended in the inlet scoop on the right wing so ready for paint, (in another ten years?).
I have been busy with work, 'My ladies' list grows weekly and all sorts of jobs come up from car repairs to cracks in bathroom ceilings. Latest is a stable that has three vehicles to repair after her estranged husband vandalized them. quite a lot, to give you an idea of what I had to do just on a quad;
Wiring burnt out due to BOTH earth wires connected to battery neg instead of one to battery and one to engine, so all return power from starter went via the alternator ground, burned right out within loom so had to fit new wires and re-loom., 2Kilo of stones in the tank as well as leaves, grass and water, CDi missing, battery knackered and too small. Air filter home to a mouse, new fitted, No plug, brakes stuck, one adjuster missing no ignition lock. Seat catch bent so seat didn't stay put. thread on crankshaft crossed so had the use my trusty Snap-on thread file so I could fit a new nut. Carburetor totally green inside, Rear brake pedal seized. rear pads shot.
Apart from that, nice little quad. (Aeon Cobra 180 RS) for those who know these things.
Next is a Yamaha/Ezgo golf buggy that has had its wiring ripped out and not serviced for at least ten years.
Followed by a Nissan M110-14 6L truck on which I have absolutely no idea or information and again the wiring is a mess and the switch missing. new batteries fitted but from there on it's a mystery.
On the SS it is down to bleed brakes and clutch, make the door panels and a bit of bodywork, small cracks and crazing before a coat of primer and deep black gloss acrylic. Oh, yeah, repair that cut in the passengers seat bolster, bugger! I have made up a nice alloy knob for the brake bias adjuster so need to get that fitted.
My main problems are; the workshop is 45 minuets drive away and after spannering all day the last thing I want to do is drive all that way and work into the dark hours an another car. Motivation of 'making stones next year' just is not a reality so it's just get it roadworthy before I can't get in and out of the darn thing, should have undertaken scooter restoration, at least there is good money in that.
Anyway, A happy holidays to you all and lets have a great new year.
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Post by Peter on Jan 6, 2019 12:41:31 GMT
Not much done in December apart from fitting a new battery, finishing the electrics and the right scoop blending in but progress is progress.
Way too much work for me at the moment, just when I thought my work at the stables was down to 'just' the Nissan M110-14 truck she wants me to do a days welding on the fences. I am trying to pace myself as at 73 I am still fit but if I cracked on a 40 hour week I won't be for much longer. Takes me all night to do what I used to do all night, know what I mean?
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Post by Peter on Jan 13, 2019 12:47:04 GMT
One step forward and three back this week Started up the motor and big whoosh of blue flame out of #1 choke and a bang and although the other three ran OK #1 was not, so valve problem, the clearances were done OK so it must be a seating problem on the inlet, some crap might have gone down the trumpet, although I always cover them. off with the head next trip and see what is going on.
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Post by Peter on Jan 17, 2019 20:54:49 GMT
I did a compression test and all four read the same so I don't thing I have a valve problem, valve clearance is good too so it must be the carb'. I stripped the DRLA 40 down and didn't find anything amiss apart from no fuel but the accelerator weights had the spring at the bottom on the ball and although all the manuals show them without springs mine has, so I put them at the top against the plug with the weight on the ball. Then I saw the bridge between the floats was bent so I straightened it,, and broke the top off of the float , so I glued it together with epoxy as I'm sure that will stand the fuel, seems to be OK but 'only' 35€ for a new one from my pal in Italy Alfa1750. I also found a new 1.5 float valve so fitted that as well as new carb' to inlet gaskets, just need to reassemble and set it again.
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Post by Peter on Jan 18, 2019 18:55:13 GMT
Well,I reassembled and after following the DellOrto book I found I had overlooked a couple of things like cutting the tab off the float to allow more fuel in and I had the accelerator pump weights upside down and the float height was 3mm too high. but other than that all was in speck.
I will have to change the fuel pump the Facet one is way too noisy, even on rubber mounts and I will mount the new one under the fuel tank too, I didn't do it before because of the noise but with a quite pump I will.
Fitted it all back on and a little go-go juice down the chokes and it fired up first time and no misfire but I did notice a errant spark off of the alloy tube the HT leads run in across the shroud so out with them and I found one of the leads had a cut in it and yes, it was number one, bugger, so new lead on the way.unfortunately my Petronix igniter has conked out, dead, no spark, so I have been back on points and condenser for a while. I did look at buying a new igniter but bloody hell! HOW MUCH?
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Post by Peter on Jan 19, 2019 14:46:39 GMT
One other thing I have to do is fit new engine/gearbox mounts as the polyurethane ones have crumbled , hasn't seen more than a few miles use, it seems to be a problem with them according to several buyer reviews, so I'm going for standard units, at least the last ones lasted 30 years. Does this mean I should also check all the suspension bushes? That also means I have to slide the engine way from the gearbox just to get to the four nuts, stupid design. Good job I have my gantry and hoist. New plug leads, fuel pump kit with filter, engine/gearbox mounts, ordered So next months work is pretty well laid out. OH yeah, Also on the way, head gasket on the BMW E30 to do.
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